AndyB

Yuk, The blood covered helmet is 10 feet away from the body.

I was taught max 10mph and with gusts up to 5mph more. I find 8 mph and gusts of 4 (so max 12 mph) works well. The gusts make landing more tricky as you can suddenly drop in between gusts.

I find this site generally give good info.... https://www.windfinder.com/forecast/puerto-deportivo-de-la-duquesa

Cool.

I am in Yarm.

I got one in August 2017. It is great!

Do you mean that it was fully primed, so you were expecting it to start.....as opposed to you were not expecting it to start? If it was supposed to start but you expected minimum throttle, then one of the following might have happened and is a great example of why only starting on your back is better. 1. Throttle held while starting or stuck and not fully closed. 2. When priming it is easy to push a considerable amount of fuel through the carb. If you have NOT flooded the plug, then sometimes it will fire up and because there is a pile of fuel on the engine side of the carb, you have little way of controlling it. It will do a big rev up. You might think it has gone to full throttle, but it hasn't really.

Fuel in carb still.

Finished towball rack......ready for fitting of brackets for paramotor......

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I prefer my reserve in a side pocket where it does not get in the way. Having moved it there, I found that the lid off the then defunct front mount Gin reserve holder was ideal as an instrument panel! Sadly I sold it with my machine! Now got a money belt!

I have now painted the frames and added the ply deck. Looks really smart! I'll add another pick when I get back home. If I got enough orders I could be persuaded to do a production run!

Bought myself a bike rack that bolts onto the towbar. It also provides a base for my paramotor rack I just made. The bike rack is from Pendle bike. You can also just buy the towbar bracket here http://www.pendle-bike.co.uk/shopping/ball-mounting.php I bought some 1 1/4" OD tube, so my pararmotor rack can fit exactly the same way the bike rack does. I had enough metal to make two of these! Will sell the extra one.

Nice, thanks for sharing. Now looking for old money belt, I know we have one somewhere.........

Yep, that's the one. That was the only time I have managed to get over it. Usually the wind blowing up the edge of the hills makes it too rough!

Most reserves take at least 150' to open. So, allowing some reaction/decision time and some time to decelerate your fall before the ground arrives, 300' is generally about it.

I was taught why to have one, when to use one and how to use it. I have one and I look after it. I still put my hand to the handle in flight to always remind me exactly where it is (side mount). I see many who do not use them. There is talk about how no one knows of someone needing to use one, when when they were only doing "pottering about the sky". It is always acro pilots or pilots pushing the envelope. That may well be the case, but having been taught about it, I will use one. ps. When I upgraded to Nitro 200 I also got a Gin Yeti Light.

Yes, weight of arm is fine. The instructors tell you to lift the non-turning arm to make sure you programme your head not to pull the brake on that side...hence avoiding stalls. Active flying requires more than arm weight on both brakes. Don't do this until much more experience.There has to be enough brake pulled so that when released it has an effect. Read the book - Paramotoring bible, Jeff Goin from memory. Brilliant!

By flight 10 your instructor should have told you by now! Most beginner/intermediate wings are more stable when both brakes have the slack taken out of them. In bumpy air my Roadster will develop side swing unless brakes at position 1. Instructors often teach "hands up" as the off position in order to try and prevent a student from inadvertently pulling both brakes.

I wondered if anyone would notice that! A little confusing, cos if you take any old monkey with you it would then become a "flying monkey"!!!

I have been working on trying to find actual rules for Spain. While translating the latest bloody great big boring book of rules I have been sent, I noticed this..... 8.5. Recommended Equipment in Flight. - Radio transmitter / receiver coupled to the earmuffs of the helmet (in the case of teaching it is also obligatory when this is included in the Study Plan). - Boots with protection for the ankles. - Flying monkey - Gloves. - GPS. - Map. - Mobile phone. - Emergency parachute.

The problem with elec is battery weight vs flight time. Currently a 1 hour flight will require about 15 kg of battery. And these cost £1200 each. You can of course use el cheapo LiPo from Hobbyking, then cost is about £400....but these have a high risk of in-flight failure. Re-charging takes lots of power, so tricky out a field. Also, not as quiet as you might think!

Which hill are you on and what is the loch/sea we can see?

Brill