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  4. Do you have a pop-off valve and if so have you checked it? I know pop-off in mikuni carbs works with the low speed jet, so if you're pop-off is way off then your changes to the low speed jet might not have enough impact to compensate for an out-of-spec pop-off pressure.
  5. Last week
  6. https://youtu.be/pgu-SVYZzSw A short of my trip to Fermo.
  7. why are you considering removing the crush washer on the plug? the function of it is to help keep the cylinder head pressures from bypassing the threads as when you tighten it down the flat part of the plug crushes it down to conform to the shape in the outside of the cylinder head (or in your case the plug cooler) also depending on cylinder head/combustion chamber design if you do that the plug will then sit quite a few MM deeper into the combustion chamber possibly increasing chance of piston to plug contact depending on how shallow the CC's dome is....i don't know much about paramotor engines to know what the head or combustion chamber/squish band sizing's are like but i'd probably avoid doing the crush washer removal unless its specified in whatever modifications you have done. Have you done some full throttle pulls to see what the plug colour is like? if you've had a big reduction in temps then you've most likely been too lean and you now have it in the area when some smaller adjustments are required
  8. Thanks for your suggestion, After few tests I've finally found the correct adjustment for my carb. Hight jet: 140 Low jet: 42 Needle clip: middle position Air screw. 1+ 1/8 turn out. Engine runs very smooth on the medium range. No more jumps from 5000 rpm to +6000rpm. Tops at 7850. Drastic reduction in CH temp (20-30 ºC in medium range and 40-50 ºC in max range) However I still have some issues... Rough idle. Jumps constantly from 1400 to 2500 rpm. Not a problem when flying. I have some leaks from the spark plug. I've realized that I don't have the small washer that should be placed between the CH and the spark plug cooler (see pic 1). I've tried to replace it with the temp gauge but it still leaks. Does anyone have the thickness measurements of this washer? And should I remove the washer that all spark plugs have at the top (pic 2)? Thanks in advance
  9. My guess first off if you've fitted the new carb that comes with the kit it's probably the best place to start.... However, don't be shy at checking the stator and your earth's.... Stators are an increasingly common issue on these. And for the sake of a 2 second ohms test could be the first easiest test to try even before even touching the carb.... A nightmare to do however.... Especially since you've probably just done all the work you need to do putting the kit on. Let us know how ye get on. Ps if the stator is fine.... It might be worth just trying the old carb on first just to see how it runs with it before stripping down new carb to tune it up and change jets etc
  10. Wondering if there any updated opinions on the ES 100 Booster. I have the miniplane top 80 now, weigh 165, but would like a little more "boost" any one flying this motor? And where can I get one? Love my top 80 but ...need some more hp.
  11. Forget choke , get fuel up to carb with diaphragm pressed and one more squeeze for luck , put on your back and start pulling with a touch of throttle . cas.
  12. I've got an EOS 100 Booster with a pull start and I'm trying to get a handle on how you're supposed to cold start an engine on your back. Because you cannot reach the choke lever with the motor on your back it appears that you have to take the motor on and off twice just to cold start and engine. - press on the diaphragm of the carb and press the primer until fuel just reaches the inlet on the carb - release the diaphragm and give the primer a few more presses to increase pressure in the fuel line - press the diaphragm for half a second to squirt fuel into the intake - engage the choke lever on the carb *** Is this where you put the paramotor on your back? *** - with no throttle, pull start the engine while it's choked *** With the choke engaged, is the engine supposed to be able to turn over and continue idling on its own, or is it simply supposed to sputter for half a second and then die? The whole idea of the choke is to get the engine running for a little while so it can warm up so the fuel can properly vaporize and burn, right? With the choke engaged, is there still the threat of a prop strike on your hands and limbs? *** - take the paramotor off your back so you can then disengage the choke - put the paramotor *back* on your back and pull start the engine while giving it a little bit of throttle to really start it **** Is this correct? For people who start their engines on their backs, do you put on the choke, put the motor on your back, pull start, take the motor off your back, release the choke, put the motor back on your back, and then start it up?
  13. Hi everyone, so i have a Fly100evo paramotor which i have trouble diagnosing. What i have done so far: I have changed the cylinder and piston after they got stuck running too lean ( may have been damaged before as well since i bought it used). I have also done a carb rebuild (new gaskets and membrane) since it seemed to build up alot of air in the fuel line coming to the carb. The Problems i am having: -I can fly fine for about 20 mins then it starts behaving irregular in the RPM of the motor. loosing power to the point where i cant even climb anymore. -Now recently it have also started smoking a bit. - I used to have problem with it stalling when bending forward with it on my back until i did the carb rebuild. will changing the carb and reed valve to new parts help? I'm quite handy guy but combustion engines ain't my field so if anyone got tips i would greatly appreciate, I read this below which seems to fit my problems. but being stubborn i have hard accepting the not reparable part. The pilot bends over and the engine stalls. This is NOT a repairable problem! It is caused by the puddling of fuel and oil in the crankcase. Bending over will allow the flywheel to slop the puddle (usually with a higher concentration of oil) into the combustion chamber. The engine may either smoke a lot for a moment or stall source: http://www.southwestairsports.com/ppgtechinfo/top80/hrservicenotes/performanceissues/performance_issues.htm
  14. Viking1000


    That looks brilliant!. Can't imagine doing that but working towards it! Regards Nige
  15. Alan - you doing fancy dress again for Christmas!!!!!!
  16. Anyone getting through the ground handling challenge . Com tasks ? Heli and Spider-Man difficult!!!!
  17. probably more likely to seek out something based in their own language
  18. Maybe set up a US specific forum... see whether it gets used or if folk just pass through. The facebook groups can be bitchy (to put it mildly). I guess thanks to Tucker and AviatorPPG things are booming for PPG over that side of the pond. How many members have you got now Simon? Is it growing?
  19. I like stating the obvious though:-) Bit shocked with France and Spain only having 1% !!
  20. Is this based on IP address or are you doing a stealth track à la Facebook 🤔😁
  21. Latest data of the geographical location of people who have visited the Paramotor Club in the last 7 days. SW
  22. I did a conversion course with Simon at SkyHighPPG and used a Top80(miniplane) with a 26m Gin wing. I was happy enough that I bought a second hand PAP Top80 (from Cas on here) and bought a Roadster 3 to go with it. Not a speed demon set up but it suits my 90kg 63 year old body. Maybe I will look into something a little larger eventually but the biggest plus for the Top80 for me is that there is a wealth of knowledge out there about the motor, most issues have been resolved and parts are (relatively) cheap. OK its the VW Beetle of paramotoring but like the Beetle it gets you from A to B cheaply and reliably
  23. I did a power conversion as I was already an experienced paraglider pilot. While training I tried a paramotor with a Thor 130. With fuel probably near 30kg. I struggled with the ground handling (probably too used to my free flying) & I began to wonder whether taking up paramotoring was a mistake! I then tried another paramotor with the Top 80 nearer the 20kg weight & what a difference! I really do think you should try the Atom 80. Talking to your instructor who should be able to offer you the best advice as they will know first hand your ability & what motor/wing combination suits you best. One of the instructors where I trained was well over 90kg body weight & over 6ft & he regularly flew the paramotor with the Top 80 no problem. There really is a lot of factors involved to what size motor you go for. That’s why I think it’s important to get your training done before you commit to buying gear & if possible, try different machines at the school to find out what’s right for you. Justin
  24. 80cc for a 90kg pilot? In my ppg club (about 100 pilots) these engines are only used by students and light guys. Most of us are in the 125-200cc range. I am 72 kg and have a Thor 200. Once I am in the air I have the peace of mind that I can gain altitude without problems. The only drawback is the weight (31kg) I recommend you to try a more powerful engine than the 80 and then decide.
  25. I have had 5 spinal fusions and 2 discectomies (3 emergencies to relieve paralasys). I am fused from thoracic to pelvis and have a 30 degree froward bend. I now cannot walk more than a few meters unaided. I still foot launch because it is fun and more convenient than trying to get a trike out.
  26. No. Only started paramotoring in January and just thought it time to get insured.
  27. I’m brand new to this sport to the point that I’m untrained, don’t own any equipment, and not well enough educated to know what questions I should be asking to begin with. Therefore, I’m not going to bash anyone, but I’m not about to start complimenting them either. I will say this for Kurt Fister...he was the first and so far the ONLY one to reach out to me with regards to training. I have no intention to go out flying without first being proper trained. I take my safety very seriously. Obviously the “FREE TRAINING” caught my attention, buy certainly not enough to keep it there. That’s because I have no problem with the thought of paying for training. In fact, I fully expected to do so. I also want to go through a standardized training course that uses a training syllabus that outlines to the trainer exactly what the students are supposed to away from each of the various parts of their training. I certainly know enough to expect at least that much. Admittedly, my background as a certified Master Training Specialists in the United States Navy as an Electronic Warfare Instructor and Course Manager taught me that. I won’t go out flying unless I know that I’m fully capable of flying safely. When Kurt reached out, he did push his trike though, but may have done so because I’m a disabled Veteran with a horrendously bad back that’s been fused from the lower ribs on down to the bottom. So a trike certainly doesn’t sound like a bad idea. However, I’ve also been using a personal trainer to get myself back in shape for more than 4 years now, so a foot launched paramotor certainly isn’t out of the question. In fact, I’m leaning towards that route. After watching numerous videos, I just like having more options available for taking off and landing. That and the idea of sitting in what amounts to little more than a boat chair with a lap belt while flying up to several thousand feet in the air really doesn’t sound all that safe, especially when you have as much bad luck as I’ve had. I can’t possibly over emphasize just how bad my luck really is. I had another guy, who I asked about an HVAC compressor warranty during a repair, tell me that I really didn’t need to worry about it, because it was just a fluke that the first one broke. He told me I was just “paranoid” about the bad luck thing. Less than an hour later, my house was struck by lightning. There’s another reason why I would skip on this specific trike...Kurt pointed out that his trike is stronger because of it’s steel tubular frame. I can’t say it is or isn’t. I’m just not knowledgeable enough to know either way. But while that might be strong, it presents another issue I can’t dismiss...RUST. Rust is a very serious issue when you live only three blocks off the ocean. I’m not talking about surface rust on the outside that undoubtedly would start to take place in just a season or two, but rust on the inside of the tubular walls, where it can’t be seen. ANYTHING THAT CAN CORRODE DOES CORRODE HERE. Thus, that’s also going to be a priority issue when I purchase my first paramotor setup as well. I certainly appreciate any advice I can get going forward that aides in educating me on the sport of Paramotoring. I’m really excited to be getting into this. It’s always been a major desire of mine to be able to go out and fly. I can’t wait!!! BUT I WILL. That’s because I want to do this right. I especially want to be completely safe (if there is such a thing...nothing is EVER 100% completely safe, but I at least know enough to mitigate the dangers to the lowest extent possible). So even before I start getting professionally trained, I’m reading books and researching throughout the Internet. That way I’ll be well enough prepared that once I’m in school and buying my own equipment, I’ll at least know what I should be asking upfront. I used that approach when I get certified for Scuba diving years ago and have never once had any sort of incident of any kind whatsoever. And statistically, scuba diving is considerably MORE dangerous than Paramotoring, or even skydiving for that matter.
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