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adamjedgar last won the day on August 22 2019

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  1. Nah 100% made it richer on both...added about 1/8 on low and half a turn on high. The crank had the tiniest bit of play in it when i was putting prop on...if i had known it had roller little end bearing, i would never have taken off. I was convinced it was the big end a few flights back but when i lifted barrel there was not play in the big end...i ended up putting it down to a bit of 2 stroke piston slap. Compression, starting, idling, and power were all great prior to take off, but i dont think with 2 strokes that means much! Here is a photo of spark plug the day before. Even thought its a coffee brown colour, i normally run a black colour. For it to be going brown when i had increased rich mixture i think says the excessive movement in little end and failed bearing was adding friction heat to the underside of piston and also affecting exhaust port timing making engine run lean. The other side of piston and barrel are unaffected by this.
  2. heres the failed upper connecting rod roller bearing...shes stuffed.
  3. Hi guys,Had an engine failure yesterday on the simonini mini2plus 200.Landing was fun but thanks to my always trying to keep downwind bomout options within reach, i nailed a perfect high g/s feather duster on Monash Country Club 16th hole fairway...wind was north east coming off the ocean.https://www.livetrack24.com/track/1645021wasnt sure how much wind shadow effect there would be passing down through tree line (a 10-12 knot coastal seabreeze was blowing 2-3km east of me) so i let the trimmers out about 40mm to try and compensate for that frightful dead airzone below tree top height and it all worked out well. I paced out two lovely looking 10meter long worm burn marks on the fairway grass...a token of my appreciation for the temporary club membership...hehehe. Real feather chuffing stuff (shame there was not a soul in sight to witness my one decent landing in my ppg career). It looks like the upper connecting rod roller bearing has failed and in turn the engine seized. its early in the strip down but its obvious she has also grabbed a piston on the cylinder wall as well clearly running lean through exhaust port at the time of failure. Im not suprised by that because i was on about 3/4 speed system climbing up into the hills to the west of the coastline at the time trying to get home before sunset.I had only increased the low and high speed mixture settings on previous flight yesterday as we are coming into our cooler months here in Sydney, so its not mixture related even though engine did end up running hot...i believe thst was due to unfavourable port timing caused by bearing failing.Whats really interesting is that as the bearing failed the engine did not produce any audible knocking noise like you get with an automotive engine...small engine small noise i suppose.Will be at the very least a new piston/cylinder kit (although im suspecting a crank split to replace lower connecting rod bearing may also be needed as im certain pieces of the failed upper rod bearing will have gone through the bottom end (i cant feel anything but shiny pieces of metal fell out of the spark plug when i removed it and tapped it on a hard surface)Engine has about 150 hours and has always been very reliable.I had the head off a few weeks ago and cleaned out decompression port also checking the liner for any score marks, put a walbro kit in it carby, and replaced the electric starter and battery.What sort of hours are you guys getting out of roller type upper connecting rod bearings?Ive never had a little end fail before, big ends on other engines yes...but not upper. Makes me think roller type little ends are a bad idea?
  4. Anyone know of any engine brans in paramtoring who do fuel injection? Wouldnt it resolve the issue of 2 stroke engine failures due to carburation issues? In cars fuel injection also add quite a bit of horsepower as well as much better fuel economy. Couldnt we benefit from that? I habe read that jetskis for example use it
  5. Hi guys, I have an update on this issue... 1. The nicads developed a memory and would take full charge. 2. The starter motor brushes packed it in 3. The simonini mini2plus decompression port had gotten blocked. As you can imagine, i got completely confused as to what the heck was wrong in all of that. Suffice to say: 1. 3 battery packs (i thought the nimh new one was a failure and therefore ended up buying a new nirvana nicad one as well), 2. 2 starter motors (which still didnt fix the problem), 3. and removal of head to clean out decompression port...and dinally the rodeo is singing along happily again. 4. Replaced fuel primer and new carby kit You can imagine my shock when new battery and a second starter motor still wouldnt turn the engine over. I didnt suspect the decompression port because i had checked it only a few hours before the final breakdown that grounded her months ago. I have lost track of how much money this cost but im thinking roughly $600 AUD might cover it. An expensive exercise in frustration. Looking back i still cant see that i could have avoided all of the screwing around. On a bright note, it turns out that: 1. the nimh batteries work brilliantly 2. I cant get replacement brushes for my starter...so after rewinding it, im still stuffed and had to get a complete replacement starter anyway (lucky i got a second hand one in good nick for $50...$400AUD for new one). The nirvana has now done around 20 hours in the last month without any issues. Fingers crossed. I wish it was possible to pull start it whilst on my back.. It develops so much compression its impossible. I can only just pull start it standing beside the unit (let alone with it on my back) Its no wonder the electric starter has so much trouble. These decompression ports on the bigger motors seem like a bit of a fail to me.
  6. I dont live at altitude...sea level actually. However, my first 2 paramotors (still use both) are 200cc engines and i weigh 71kg. Get the lightest most powerful unit you can is my advice. Because you are at high altitude, perhaps it might be worth considering a 1 size larger wing? (I cant say this from experience but if you are launching at those kinds of altitudes then i would be looking for horsepower/thrust and lowering wing loading a bit. You might also consider different prop. Imagine that for a given engine, at higher altitude you could probably use a coaser pitched propellor because the air is thinner? You probably would need to ask the manufacturers about all of this...they would know their own gear.
  7. Hi guys, Has anyone else noticed that their wing at a given trim setting flies faster with engine at idle descending than under power straight and level? I tested this twice today and both times my gps speed increased by about 3km/hr when i went back to idle and began to descend compared with straight and level flight under power. Any ideas on why? I have 2 theories... 1. Increased drag at idle lowers angle of attack to the point of producing increased airspeed that more than compensates for increased drag, 2. Approx 7 degree recline on prop unloads the wing under power...so wing flies slower for a given weight under throttle because the vertical component of thrust due to the 7 degree recline carries some of your weight. I dont think its entirely point 2 above...because 7 degrees as a percentage of 180 degrees i dont think equates to a gps speed difference of 3km/hr (35 vs 38km/hr) My calc says 7 degress is 3.8 percent however that only equates to 1.47km/hr change in speed. Any other thoughts on this?
  8. I have removed the insulated windings and prepared the armature to rewind. Apart from my time, its relatively inexpensive to purchase the wire to rewind this...so what the heck, i will have a crack at it. After all, what could possibly go wrong that is worse then where i am at right now in that i need to purchase a new starter motor. If i can get the right wire...to be continued (never done this before, so i thought i would enrol in "Starter Motor Rewind" classes at the International Institute of Youtube)
  9. Hi guys, I have a nirvana rodeo with a mini2plus engine in it that is also 16.8 volt electrical system. The NS50 starter motor used by Nirvana (which is not a Simonini factory spec one) has failed. My assumption is that Nirvana use a different starter because they have increased the battery to 16.8 Volt instead of the Simonini standard 12 volt electric start system. After exhaustive trial and error and learning, i have managed to finally test it correctly and have determined that the resistance testing of adjacent poles on the comutator is the problem. When i test each adjacent pole, initially it shows a small resistance, however, with a few seconds, this value drops to zero. My understanding is that if the resistance value drops after a short period of time, then there is a short. The starter motor is also rapidly burning out the active brush after cleaning and reinstalling. Also, the starter barely even turns the motor over. The battery is brand new and is the 3rd new battery i have tried...so i think i can safely rule that out! Does anyone know what make of starter motor the Nirvana NS50 actually is? (it is not the same as the one used on the Nirvana Instinct) I would be open to an alternative starter, however, this system is 16.8Volts and I dont know if the starter motor is different to a 12 volt one because this is a 16.8 volt system. If it is different, in what way would that be the case? (ie windings, gauge wire???) Images of starter attached. Last 3 photos are after I machined the comutator, then reinstalled it into motor and tried to start (as you can see, its burning the active brush immediately)
  10. Dont the engine specs say engine 1 is 80 ml and engine 2 is 100ml. If 1ml = 1cc...then both of those motors, considering they are also 4 strokes, are drastically underpowered for ppg. Not even worth considering in my view.
  11. So is this also the ssme for freeflying paragliders too. (Ie no legal requirement for training) How do you guys get on when you visit countries like Australia where one must be licenced to fly paragliders and parsmotors?
  12. Hi guys, i am just wondering if someone can provide me with a link to the opps manual that is used in the UK. Do you guys have a ppg only course or is it an addon to a pg license? What are the requirements for ppg and pg over there? what levels of ppg license are there in the UK and what are the requirements for each? kind regards Adam
  13. another thing i havent seen mentioned here is full throttle engine rpm on big vs small engines. the little top 80 i imagine is doing a crapload more rpm than my simo 200 to get me airborne. So i am of the view that the big engine working easy is going to last a whole lot longer between engine rebuilds, and is also going to be a lot more reliable because it is not working so hard all the time.
  14. sorry for the late reply, the nirvana rodeo has about 150 hours now. also, another strategy often used by Nirvana for reducing cracking of various components is the up the idle RPM...dont let your motor idle too slow or the excessive vibration at idle causes cracks everywhere.
  15. This is one area where Nirvana Rodeo have a much better solution. A long section of the header pipe is all flexible. The entire silencer is rubber mounted whilst i have had an outer covering of the silencer come apart (rivets let go), i have never have cracking problems with the header pipe.
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