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adamjedgar last won the day on March 30 2018

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About adamjedgar

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  1. I know guys who fly 120's...guys of upwards of 100kg in body weight. It's more about what wing you fly than the motor. If your engine c.c. is small, go for a larger lower end wing. As an illustration, I have two ppg units...both 200's. One has a shit prop on it which doesn't produce much thrust...but this unit is also 7kg lighter than my other 200 with the good prop. Now I can fly my 25m Dudek Universal with either ppg unit no problem. I recently purchased a 22m Ozone Sirrocco...I am yet to successfully get off the ground on this wing using the ppg with the shit prop (I have tried more than a dozen launches over a couple of days going home both times completely knackered and very very frustrated! On one launch, i got it above my head and ran 50 meters...not once during that run did i ever get the feeling i was going to get airborne...i felt more like a turkey heading for (and straight through) the nearest fence at full tit. However I can successfully launch it with the unit that has the better prop. The moral of the story...the difference in my case between flying and not with the low thrust unit is definitely the wing...it's reasonably easy to launch the larger lower end glider with it, the faster higher end Sirrocco...virtually impossible.
  2. I agree, just opem trimmers, full speedbar from time to time, big ears...ride it out. I personally wouldn't go trying to reach behind into cage area...that area whilst engine is running is a bed of snakes! Most engines have both ignition and kill switches...I think you have a pretty good chance of safely shutting down with these two alternatives. Some engines has clear fuel primers that are easily within reach whilst strapped in. Perhaps one option might be to perforate/rip the primer so it sucks air thus starving engine of fuel? If I were reaching around into cage, I would go for blocking the air filter intake...however both my paramotors are high hang point so the ability to move around in harness is extremely limited (On nirvana Rodeo virtually impossible) I am not sure about bline stalls under full power, I'm of the opinion that could be catastrophically dangerous as I have lost control of a glider after it went parachutal doing that once...it ended up a bed sheet beneath me and I missed falling into it by inches as I fell down though. Safest is big ears, 360's, and wing over into 360 to minimise regain altitude as you exit wingover (the degree of wing over depends on experience and skill obviously). These manoeuvres are really only for short bursts to get rid of excessive height...you are gonna get pretty tired awful quickly if you tried to spend the entire 2 or more hours doing them, Main thing is not panic and fly it out (keep the wing flying stable) staying well within your level of experience and skill. You are unlikely to die flying for 2 hours till fuel runs out, but you could easily die cocking up trying to pull plug, fuel line, or performing unstable descent techniques (high power bline stalls in my book are unstable and potentially very very dangerous)
  3. adamjedgar

    Niviuk Link Trim for Launch

    I haven't flown the niviuk wings, although my instructor here in Australia David Wainwright sells them and won icarus on one. I am surprised it is any different to the apco lift ezy to be honest...there isn't that much difference in the wing rating. I have a Dudek Universal (A/B rating). I don't usually have to let trimmers out at all launching that wing in light conditions up to about 10knots (obviously I'm reverse launching in anything over about 5 knots). In any case, your launch trimmers settings in lighish conditions should be similar to the apco and my wing I would have thought. Can I ask, what ppg unit do you fly? Have you checked you brake line lengths on that new wing for the ppg unit you are flying? Perhaps the hang points require brake lines to be lengthened slightly on that wing? (This shouldn't be an issue but you should always check with a different wing in any case to make sure you are not launching wing with brake engaged...or just in case someone else has altered them)
  4. well i have managed to finally finish soldering up the Nimh battery pack with heavier duty copper pieces for linking batteries. i put it into paramotor this afternoon and unfortunately it was a complete fail. There is barely enough cranking amps to turn the 200cc motor over. I have to say i am disappointed, i was sure that this would work...even a local battery supplier (who also make up battery packs) were certain that the Nimh batteries would be far better than Nicads. It would seem that the few forum posts i have managed to google comparing Nicads and Nimh batteries are correct...for electric starter cranking power, Nimh are pretty much useless. Back to the drawing board...i guess tomorrow i will be heading out to buy some Nicads to make another battery pack up. I will post back once i have done that...might even make a video about it as I am sure a real life comparison might be of use to others.
  5. Thank's guys for the input. I have some thinking and tinkering to do. I guess the short of this, I am dismayed at my Nimh failure...I really thought that was going to be a winner cause everyone say they are better. I missed the part where Nimh are apparently crap for high drain applications. Anyway, I have one more avenue of trial and error with Nimh, I am going to use heavier gauge metal (copper that was previously on my old nicads) linking batteries together in series. This is just to make sure I am truly comparing then properly. If the Nimh batteries still won't crank the motor, then I will know for sure it's a fail. I am persisting just a little longer because Wikipedia says these batteries should work (at least that my comprehension of the Wikipedia writeup) If the Nimh turn out to be a fail, in the short term I will have to use Nicad until I can convert the whole thing to 12v. Once it's 12v, I can use the battery my other paramator has (which is a compact lightweight lithium motorcycle battery and is brilliant).
  6. Ok...my preference would be to go for Lipo...I have seen those in model aircraft and are great. Concerns... 1. On the nirvana the battery pack is built into the fibreglass shell in a pocket right behind my back. Are they safe enough to be in such a location? (Fire) 2. The system charges to 16.8volts (nicad) which peaks I believe at 22volts. I would need to change this...I'm thinking it may be better to drop back to 12 volt motorcycle lipo. Is it easily doable to change the nirvana rodeo (simonini200) over to 12 volt and then I can use a standard motorcycle 12volt Lipo battery? What is involved in this?
  7. I am not sure Vauxscott...i have in the past turned it over using a 12volt motorcycle battery. The Nirvana fired up ok, however, if a starter motor normally runs on a 16.8 Volt system, will using a 12 Volt battery cause problems for the starter motor? I ask that because i once had a fridge at our house catch fire and burn half a house down because the fridge motor supply power cable was damaged and the compressor was unable to draw enough to run properly. Eventually it over heated and caused a fire. Would not the same thing happen to a starter motor that is not being supplied with enough voltage? (ie less than the designed16.8V)
  8. What voltage is that? The Rodeo is 16.8v. I can't get this voltage with lithium...nearest is 18v which won't work because of the charging system on the Nirvana Rodeo. It's a 16.8V system I have since read that Nimh aren't good for high current drain...such as electric starters
  9. Hi guys, I recently decided to replace my Nirvana Rodeo 200cc engine Nicad battery pack with Nimh. The old pack consists of 14 sub C batteries in series to produce 16.8 volts. After making up the new pack and then charging batteries 1 week ago, I installed the new pack into motor yesterday and attepted to start ...it barely turns the Simonini 200 over. Ideas?
  10. adamjedgar


    Gee is the 200 rewlly having problems getting that off the ground? Im am really surprised...my simonini 200 would near go shit vertical with that trike (i weight 73kg +motor is 34kg = 107kg ex wing) Maybe try a 3 blade prop? What is your body weight, fuel capacity, and what wing are you flying with it?
  11. Hi guys, The nirvana has sat in storage for a few months. Got it out, charged battery, started up...no problems. Next day, went to field, started up...all good. Shut down, setup wing, put motor on back...wouldnt start and then popped the fuel primer (rubber stuffed) Purchased a new primer, started at home, all good. Next day down to field, started motor and warmed up. Shutdown, climbed into harness leaning back and then forwrds to get in and up on feet, walked over to glider, clipped wing onto carrabiners...motor wouldnt start. Took wing off, and climbed out of harness, primed motor and after a bit of mucking around, she fired up again. I stopped engine, then restarted...she went first go. Went through the process of leaning back to get in, then forward to stand up, buckled up, went over to wing, clipped in...no way could i get it started. Battery went flat...pulled plug and she wasnt flooded...so i went home with the shits! If i didnt know better, i would say fuel is not staying up to carby and is draining back to tank! I did try reversing the way primer was connected...if its wrong it simply didnt pump fuel up wt all, so i think i have it round the right way? I should also make mention...battery isnt great (even though i did cycle it the nite before...i think nimh's need replacing)
  12. For my 20 cents worth... 1. Your wing loading with a motor is significantly higher (especially since we ppgers mostly use reflex gliders with high sink rates and poorer glide ratios, whereas pg guys mostly do not) so you dont feel thermals nor do they have as much effect until they get much stronger than with free flying...by the time you really feel them they are getting bloody strong and a lot more dangerous. Its at this point in the middle of the day that even a lot of free flight guys may be choosing to land! 2. Under thrust, paraglider wings dont like turbulence anywhere near as much with no thrust (under gravity)...ever landed your motor in turbulence from trees etc...notice how it snakes around and pitches much more than if you turn the motor off and descend through the rough stuff? 3. Hitting bad sink near the ground or taking a collapse near the ground with 30kg on your back is going to hurt a lot more than free flying with just a harness (which also usually has back protection btw (unlike ppg harnesses which ushally do not) 4. Because of heavier wing loadings when motoring, effectively the amount of energy and difficulty your setup produces, is at least one class higher than the gliders free flight rating. So En A becomes En B, En B becomes En C and so on. Therefore you are actually flying a much more dynamic wing in more difficult and stronger thermic conditions needed in order to stay up without the motor going...thats a lot of extra difficulty compared with free flying 5. Because of less weight shift, increased cage drag, and restricted head and body movement due to things like cage and swing arms, thermalling in a motor is actually significantly more difficult than free flying. 6. If thermalling/soaring for a long time at altitude, you may find your motor has cooled down and difficult to start again. Because you arrived at said spot under power, you may have not thought about "can i get out of here to a safe bombout if motor wont start again?" Your answer might be yes, but did you base your glide to that bombout on a free flying sink rate or motor sink rate. This is often a huge trap for guys who fly both pg and ppg...their brain subconsciously switches modes and they inadvertantly forget they now have a really terrible comparative glide ratio because they are concentrating on catching/following thermals or soaring ridge lift in the motor. Not saying for a minute dont ridge soar or thermal a motor, just dont take it for granted ppg is the same same as free flying and just as easy. It isnt. Kind regards Adam
  13. adamjedgar

    Advice thermalling with a paramotor

    That looks like a cobra paramotor made in asia...its a close copy of the nirvana rodeo. I own a nirvana rodeo and this unit is high hang point and doesnt have any weight shift (on mine carabiners attach to top of harness on shoulders). Your one looks like different hang points but soft ones like that have eome weight shift but i think its a bit limited. If its the same as mine, you can thermal with the right wing but without weight shift arms get very tired.
  14. Simple question...can a single skin wing be flown in rain? (My theory is yes, but i would be interested in hearing points of view on this one)
  15. adamjedgar

    Thor 80 fuel drip from air filter box

    One solution is to buy a 4 stroke. What you are experiencing is common among 2 strokes. I would look at jet adjustment on carby first, exhaust port and pipe, and reed valves.