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adamjedgar

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adamjedgar last won the day on August 22

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  1. another thing i havent seen mentioned here is full throttle engine rpm on big vs small engines. the little top 80 i imagine is doing a crapload more rpm than my simo 200 to get me airborne. So i am of the view that the big engine working easy is going to last a whole lot longer between engine rebuilds, and is also going to be a lot more reliable because it is not working so hard all the time.
  2. sorry for the late reply, the nirvana rodeo has about 150 hours now. also, another strategy often used by Nirvana for reducing cracking of various components is the up the idle RPM...dont let your motor idle too slow or the excessive vibration at idle causes cracks everywhere.
  3. This is one area where Nirvana Rodeo have a much better solution. A long section of the header pipe is all flexible. The entire silencer is rubber mounted whilst i have had an outer covering of the silencer come apart (rivets let go), i have never have cracking problems with the header pipe.
  4. I have an update here that has surprised me to the point of shock. I ran into a guy yesterday (not literally btw), who wwighs 84kg, was flying a top 80, and a 19 metre Ozone Freeride. For those who haven't heard of Tucker Gott, the Free ride is just below the viper in performance...it's a pretty high end wing. I am still trying to figure out how the heck he gets it into the air with a top 80 at his body weight...surely it must be pretty marginal? Oh, I did ask him about using the speed system with it...he said he is yet to try...so Perhaps that answers the question as I have my musings as to whether an 84kg pilot could maintain level flight on full speed system with a top 80 and the Free ride? It takes me back to one particular memorable flight I had in Glass house mountains in QLD Australia with the 25m Dudek Universal and Nirvana Rodeo 200. At one point I hit sink so bad, even at full throttle wing set full slow, I went down at over 400 feet per minute losing hundreds of feet of altitude. I shit myself as I was sure I was going to be pushed all the way down to bush and scrub below. Eventually I flew threw it and came away with a few hundred feet to spare...losing 400ft of my altitude (i was at 600 initially) I perish the thought as to what the outcome would have been on a top80!
  5. The only other thing I can think of is the size of the wing vs your body weight. What are the weight specs for: 1. You 2. Your motor 3. Wing weight range
  6. Could i also add to my above post, and this is something i believe incredibly important about such a scenario... let's say it was possible to have a throttle get stuck wide open and one could not shut the engine down. Imagine if, in the process of trying to perform fairly risky height loss maneuvers (considering they would be under high power setting), what if something catastrophic happened with wing and one had to throw the reserve chute? The engine is still running under high power, and the reserve is deployed.. no way to shut the engine down,I could imagine that being a recipe for death! has anyone ever tested a reserve throw whilst engine is producing near max power with the main canopy completely out of control? (i cant imagine anyone being game enough to even try)
  7. I put screws into mine to fasten them to the bars using the holes that you have indicated by your arrows in images. might pay also to hang test because i found that if the height and legnth of the jbars is too great, it causes the front part of the harness to lift up under your legs making the angle between legs and spine less than comfortable. I find it cuts off circulation to my legs after a relatively short period of time on my apco harness. Also, on mine there are two carribiner connection options. I have tried on the lower ones, but it leans me back to far with my jbars. i notice your jbars look even longer than mine. I wonder if Shorter ones (jbars) would allow me to use lower connections and would be better for ground handling as currently the risers are right up next to my ears...its awkward to say the least! EDIT...oh by the way, is this the high hook in point or the low one? (IT LOOKS LIKE THE HIGH HOOK IN POINT) IF HIGH HOOK IN POINT Before you fly wing (if you dont already know this)...its critical you lengthen the brake lines by at least 100mm (from factory settings) BEFORE you attempt to fly. Failure to do this will likely result in you stalling your wing shortly after takeoff and crashing (or torque steering into ground which is just as bad)!!! After changing brake line length, you will then have to test and keep readjusting this length until you get it right on your wing with this high hang point ppg unit. You might think landing wil be a problem with such long brake line lengths, however, its fine. You have to think about it logically...on a low hang point unit, the carribiners are about chest height, on high hang point units, carribiners are at or even above your ears...quite a bit higher. The higher the carribiners, the higher your hands must go up to not pull on any brake on wing trailing edge...so you must lengthen brakes on high hang poiint units. Its even worse when you use speed trimmers as these raise the rears up even higher (a further 100-240mm depending on wing) which can actually put the brake toggles completely out of reach if you let them go whilst trimmers are fully released! The factory defaults on wings i have flown usually have marks on the brakes lines where handle knot should be for standard low hang point set up. Just add 100-150mm (start with just 100mm) from that mark and you should be safe. The way to test if length is ok; hop into your paramotor unit without the engine running when there is a 5-6knot breeze blowing. Launch and kite your wing and have someone look at the trailing edge for you to see if, when your hands are about shoulder height...there should be no brake engaged on the rear of the wing. You dont want to come down below about shoulder height as too much slack in brake lines will then greatly reduce the amount of flare authority available for landing and brake control in the air. The aim is to adjust the knots lengthening the brake line so that the brake handles are at about the same height as they would be for a low hang point unit. Not sure what wing you fly, however, you might find on Ozone wings, this may leave almost zero tail left in the rope/line after the knot fastening it to your brake handle! (Dudek wings have quite a decent excess so i have found no problem with them)
  8. I know guys who fly 120's...guys of upwards of 100kg in body weight. It's more about what wing you fly than the motor. If your engine c.c. is small, go for a larger lower end wing. As an illustration, I have two ppg units...both 200's. One has a shit prop on it which doesn't produce much thrust...but this unit is also 7kg lighter than my other 200 with the good prop. Now I can fly my 25m Dudek Universal with either ppg unit no problem. I recently purchased a 22m Ozone Sirrocco...I am yet to successfully get off the ground on this wing using the ppg with the shit prop (I have tried more than a dozen launches over a couple of days going home both times completely knackered and very very frustrated! On one launch, i got it above my head and ran 50 meters...not once during that run did i ever get the feeling i was going to get airborne...i felt more like a turkey heading for (and straight through) the nearest fence at full tit. However I can successfully launch it with the unit that has the better prop. The moral of the story...the difference in my case between flying and not with the low thrust unit is definitely the wing...it's reasonably easy to launch the larger lower end glider with it, the faster higher end Sirrocco...virtually impossible.
  9. I agree, just opem trimmers, full speedbar from time to time, big ears...ride it out. I personally wouldn't go trying to reach behind into cage area...that area whilst engine is running is a bed of snakes! Most engines have both ignition and kill switches...I think you have a pretty good chance of safely shutting down with these two alternatives. Some engines has clear fuel primers that are easily within reach whilst strapped in. Perhaps one option might be to perforate/rip the primer so it sucks air thus starving engine of fuel? If I were reaching around into cage, I would go for blocking the air filter intake...however both my paramotors are high hang point so the ability to move around in harness is extremely limited (On nirvana Rodeo virtually impossible) I am not sure about bline stalls under full power, I'm of the opinion that could be catastrophically dangerous as I have lost control of a glider after it went parachutal doing that once...it ended up a bed sheet beneath me and I missed falling into it by inches as I fell down though. Safest is big ears, 360's, and wing over into 360 to minimise regain altitude as you exit wingover (the degree of wing over depends on experience and skill obviously). These manoeuvres are really only for short bursts to get rid of excessive height...you are gonna get pretty tired awful quickly if you tried to spend the entire 2 or more hours doing them, Main thing is not panic and fly it out (keep the wing flying stable) staying well within your level of experience and skill. You are unlikely to die flying for 2 hours till fuel runs out, but you could easily die cocking up trying to pull plug, fuel line, or performing unstable descent techniques (high power bline stalls in my book are unstable and potentially very very dangerous)
  10. I haven't flown the niviuk wings, although my instructor here in Australia David Wainwright sells them and won icarus on one. I am surprised it is any different to the apco lift ezy to be honest...there isn't that much difference in the wing rating. I have a Dudek Universal (A/B rating). I don't usually have to let trimmers out at all launching that wing in light conditions up to about 10knots (obviously I'm reverse launching in anything over about 5 knots). In any case, your launch trimmers settings in lighish conditions should be similar to the apco and my wing I would have thought. Can I ask, what ppg unit do you fly? Have you checked you brake line lengths on that new wing for the ppg unit you are flying? Perhaps the hang points require brake lines to be lengthened slightly on that wing? (This shouldn't be an issue but you should always check with a different wing in any case to make sure you are not launching wing with brake engaged...or just in case someone else has altered them)
  11. well i have managed to finally finish soldering up the Nimh battery pack with heavier duty copper pieces for linking batteries. i put it into paramotor this afternoon and unfortunately it was a complete fail. There is barely enough cranking amps to turn the 200cc motor over. I have to say i am disappointed, i was sure that this would work...even a local battery supplier (who also make up battery packs) were certain that the Nimh batteries would be far better than Nicads. It would seem that the few forum posts i have managed to google comparing Nicads and Nimh batteries are correct...for electric starter cranking power, Nimh are pretty much useless. Back to the drawing board...i guess tomorrow i will be heading out to buy some Nicads to make another battery pack up. I will post back once i have done that...might even make a video about it as I am sure a real life comparison might be of use to others.
  12. Thank's guys for the input. I have some thinking and tinkering to do. I guess the short of this, I am dismayed at my Nimh failure...I really thought that was going to be a winner cause everyone say they are better. I missed the part where Nimh are apparently crap for high drain applications. Anyway, I have one more avenue of trial and error with Nimh, I am going to use heavier gauge metal (copper that was previously on my old nicads) linking batteries together in series. This is just to make sure I am truly comparing then properly. If the Nimh batteries still won't crank the motor, then I will know for sure it's a fail. I am persisting just a little longer because Wikipedia says these batteries should work (at least that my comprehension of the Wikipedia writeup) If the Nimh turn out to be a fail, in the short term I will have to use Nicad until I can convert the whole thing to 12v. Once it's 12v, I can use the battery my other paramator has (which is a compact lightweight lithium motorcycle battery and is brilliant).
  13. Ok...my preference would be to go for Lipo...I have seen those in model aircraft and are great. Concerns... 1. On the nirvana the battery pack is built into the fibreglass shell in a pocket right behind my back. Are they safe enough to be in such a location? (Fire) 2. The system charges to 16.8volts (nicad) which peaks I believe at 22volts. I would need to change this...I'm thinking it may be better to drop back to 12 volt motorcycle lipo. Is it easily doable to change the nirvana rodeo (simonini200) over to 12 volt and then I can use a standard motorcycle 12volt Lipo battery? What is involved in this?
  14. I am not sure Vauxscott...i have in the past turned it over using a 12volt motorcycle battery. The Nirvana fired up ok, however, if a starter motor normally runs on a 16.8 Volt system, will using a 12 Volt battery cause problems for the starter motor? I ask that because i once had a fridge at our house catch fire and burn half a house down because the fridge motor supply power cable was damaged and the compressor was unable to draw enough to run properly. Eventually it over heated and caused a fire. Would not the same thing happen to a starter motor that is not being supplied with enough voltage? (ie less than the designed16.8V)
  15. What voltage is that? The Rodeo is 16.8v. I can't get this voltage with lithium...nearest is 18v which won't work because of the charging system on the Nirvana Rodeo. It's a 16.8V system I have since read that Nimh aren't good for high current drain...such as electric starters
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