t_andrews

Depending on the type of exhaust, the silencer may be plugging up. When I broke my mini2 in I was generous (as manual instructs) with oil mix and the result (in about 12 hours run time) was a plugged silencer and lower rpm due to the restriction. Usually this will richen automatically, but it's an avenue you are on your way down now from your last post. Pop some rivets off and check inside if you run the silencer after the tuned pipe. In winter air here on East Coast Canada: 156 main 6L1 needle (2nd clip from bottom) Sorry forget needle jet size... in a Bing 84 keeps my mini2 floating just under 1200 degrees EGT. Running 3.1:1 with a helix triblade. I am considering a head duct for summer though: http://www.aerocorsair.com/id108.htm (thanks Alex) Do please post the solution when it comes to you. Good luck with it.

+1 on filing. If you diligently try to fly where you should and adhere to air regulations, why shouldn't the people you expect to enforce them? I understand the law of diminishing returns (pissing off the authorities and all - telling 'dad' on them), but the pilot who "goosed" you by surprise did know better, and if he didn't he really shouldn't hold the collective until he does. That, and scaring the crap out of a slow flyer is all good fun until someone gets gift wrapped in their own wing and makes the news for the wrong reasons. Better Mr. Heli feels the back of a glove first eh? Shame you weren't shooting video for his superior to confront him with.

I have already posted the author on the same question. I will get back to you if he responds...Andy Since figured this one out - it's a google earth setting which cleans it up and drops the trackpoints for an "average" flight track. I detailed it in a word doc for our Canadian ppg yahoo group, but will fwd to anyone who PMs me an address. I do so in the hope I get to fly some other cool flights via google earth... Ref: http://www.vimeo.com/7222770

While this is indeed faked with CGI, I have since become convinced that such a landing is possible. The weekend had some time spent with a friend's simulator and an acrobatic plane, which would eventually fly along on it's side for as long as skill allowed. Add a little rudder at the right time and I bet this could (perhaps has) haqppen(ed).

These are sweet machines. Heavy, built with replacement bits in mind but well engineered to run for some time and all the bits most folks add to a bare bones rig. They use the plastic frame connectors so a bent bar need be the only bar to replace. The F33 motor is classed with the mini2/3 imho. I've been looking to source those connectors somewhere for a quad project that's been stalled (I welcome pointers)

Seems Bernard still sells it: These folks even have a do it yourself guide! http://buydehydratedwater.com/shop/

I made a playlist on youtube a while back. It may have some you've seen. maybe some you haven't. http://www.youtube.com/user/zorackthegrate#p/p

It's been discussed already here elsewhere but here are some options: 1) http://www.ultralightprops.com/tech_ser ... adjust.htm 2) http://ivoprop.com/mediummodel.htm 3) http://www.warpdriveprops.com/ Some offer inflight adjustable kits. Please do post something on them of you decide they're for you.

Get thee a ground adjustable prop.

I think this warning was my fault I don't speak Spanish or I'd ask directly how (or what tool) the pilot used to get a smooth track from his garmin etrex and overlay it onto google earth. When I try this with the garmin software I get a blotchy trackpoint infested mess. I know flytec vario/gps tracks can do this too so I'm missing something. I don't want to derail this sweet thread so welcome a PM or pointer to a post somewhere.

Mount a video camera on a remote control aircraft and fly it around you to get those great shots. You may want to utilize a remote (2.4Ghz prolly do) viewfinder (like the eyetop) to keep yourself in frame. Try not to blue screen the connection between your brain halves keeping everything straight and not flying yourself into yourself. Free flight training videos are often made with a "scorpion" camera view. This can apply to a paramotor too, but rather then hard mount, rubber bushings and string are used. Cam is mounted to either a single pole triangulated to frame by two strings or an A frame with a single string. Care on the ground required obviously and I've not done any of this, but you didn't ask for experiences... Post videos!

If you're timid about powering through the wing lift off (wash can be scary), try running your motor up to comfortable push levels and blowing air OVER TOP of your wing for 20-30 seconds. Sharply chop power and begin your run to let the wing climb through the airflow you created, and when you feel it 'pop' off the cage you know it's clear of wash and you can power back up to takeoff level. Also remember how important those tiny steps are when wing is coming through "hard point" and don't forget to make them with motor on as they translate into a large amount of vertical wing motion. The Fusion has no hard point I can feel. With a start like above it just wants to fly as soon as you start moving when set to takeoff trim. Vid courtesy captain of the maritime reflex squadron: [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]

Bing 84 on MIni2: Main 155 on fly flash trikes Mine shipped with a 156 which is 1250-75 EGT @ 7400 pending conditions 100ll cools it a bit. Jet needle/needle jets are all over the map depending on redrive setup. Many don't reach peak HP of mini2 as shipped - WJ 3.1:1 redrive, Flat top is same or even 3.2:1 w/evo. Nice video.

Spinoff fungii thread: http://www.gmilburn.ca/2008/11/24/ted-t ... the-world/ Is there anything they can't do?

I don't see it in either thread, but if you live in a clime where you already have a dehumidifier, it will act as quickly or quicker then a heated space to remove moisture from the already repellent material and place it squarely, roundly or otherwise in a pourable receptacle where it belongs. Wing doesn't need full exposure, but may need to be "fluffed" a couple times to expose pockets of trapped moisture. Even without it, it will eventually osmot to the dry spots, but maybe not before anaerobic buggers start snacking. Mushrooms + wing = bad Ripstop is pretty resilient, but coatings (even plastic bags) can be eaten by them fungii. Any way you look at it, there's effort to keep it dry required. Worth it for the sweet three week awaited flight tho. Tight lines, dry wing. -T

Get it out in a wind and GROUNDHANDLE it on differing trim settings. Very quickly you will know what setting it will inflate the quickest and how far you can let them out before it may frontal etc. ALWAYS the safer way to go before even hooking in to motor. A friend had an old wing and it was slower than those he flew with, but with his trimmers he could inflate in nastier stuff with ease. Some wings tend to frontal a lot without a full load (edge of instability and all that). My Epsilon 4 is like that with power trims out past 1/3 (not that you need them like that for takeoff). You may also find that it's technique that's lacking. I've seen some older wings that tend to horsehoe inflate and bang tips before center inflates (age, design, lines stretch?). With these, biasing the center A lines solved the problem, some wings like more overall A bias on inflation, some not. Some wings are just dogs. good luck sorting it.

I must suggest to many that their comparison of speedbar as the addition to top end is counter intuitive to what the bar has been for in my flying so far. It's been discussed as an overdrive, top gear, gravy on top merely because that's how it gets used most of the time? For me it's the turbo button. An elastic band of temporary speed I can then release as required. The revo manual reads: "The bar increases the speed by approximately 30%. Unlike most wings there is little or no loss of stability," Some say they do not see 30%? Pulleys touching? Every conventional wing out there with a speed system becomes increasingly more unstable toward complete application of speedbar. Reflex profiles adding to that stability is great but it's not the only way and doesn't necessarily mean it will all fold up like a discarded tent flinging thou from on high. Why would one challenge the unpublished law? 1) You're can't spare the height by dumping trimmers 2) You're on an economy task 3) You're doing a cloverleaf 4) Getting blown back in ridge lift 5) Your hands are busy already 6) omfg there's no time There are other examples all which can be equally easily attacked and/or challenged. Which is more efficient, trimmers or bar? That is: Speed x (top speed on slow trim and full bar) = speed x on whatever trimmer setting gives that same speed Which has the lower sink rate for no throttle setting? I'm not saying all this to start a forum fire, rather to help others consider that there are a few ways to do a lot of things with your wing, including flying it differently and getting much different feedback. (Some may say the ragged edge, others edge of envelope). SIV teaches you about you, you wing and how they can come to interact differently, but you don't need to go to an SIV course to mix it up. You can steer with the bar just like trimmers and weightshift and brakes. Just tools. Please play with altitude.

Hint out to folks that the "youtube" logo in the video can be clicked to take you to the poster's channel and usually info about the clip. A couple questions have already been answered there as other folks asked them as well. /lurk mode Some of these get reposted to youtube by someone other than the author who was careful to offer it themselves: http://parafun.be/mymovies.htm Theft via best of intentions.

Blocked exhaust - good point. I too saw at least 300rpm less after break-in oil plugged my silencer packing. I added a "bypass hole" down the middle when I repacked it and it winds up as it used to. 300 rpm doesn't read like much, but it's at the top of the "butter zone" for takeoff. You sorely miss it when you know what it should be like. Not easy tracking down a problem that ever so slowly compounds itself with no large clues. So yes, pull your silencer if in doubt and try it. One can live with the noise for a test.

All membrane carbs require preflight adjustment for optimum power. Someone may look for exception to that, but humidity, temp, air pressure all affect air density and therefor fuel mix. Procedure is full throttle adjustment to peak rpm, then dial it back in rpm to ensure sufficient richness for engine longevity. That is easier said then done, and I bet many (most?) folks do not touch that High screw to tweak it. I know some pilots that are afraid to because it "came that way" and fly only after a protracted running period if at all when a small adjustment would give them all the gumption they've been missing. To each their own. I fly a bing carb on mine, so don't adjust much nor often. Your max rpm could be limited by prop, redrive/prop, carburetion or any combination thereof. In my video above the LARGEST factor was redrive/prop since they can't be considered separate in my example. With installation of a 3.1:1 (factory WJ) I saw 7400+ rpm on the same prop because the HP curve matched better. It's a balancing act.

The Mini2 claims consumption of 2.2 lph @ 5k rpm, but this is likely an UNLOADED measurement. Redrive makes as much difference as prop choice, but they both affect the engine loading in similar measure. For example, my stock mini2 engine came with one of the redrives list on: http://www.simonini-flying.com/mini2plus_eng.htm But when I computed my max rpm, I was only getting 16HP out of it. Insufficient but great on fuel. See: [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo] for the video example.With this setup anything over half throttle was just extra fuel that cooled versus burnt. The Mini2 can make 200lbs of thrust properly matched up with a 3.1:1 redrive a helix triblade and 7500 rpm. Some folks say OMFG that's too much power, but I say they're simply mass challenged and welcome all the jam I can squeeze out of my motor. I fly a 14L tank and see 3+ hrs, although not regularly because I like using the Jam versus boating around. Tune can drastically affect consumption in a 2 stroke - I recently adjusted the bing jet needle one clip richer and then burnt 5 litres in under an hour as it was four cycling (nice cool EGT tho) in midrange. That's an undo setting worth trying once. I would hazard a guess that a wing on slow trim burning fuel only (vs thermal) could expect 4lph consumption with a mini2 assuming wing loading not too far outside upper placard. So many variables tho that is really just wild speculation. Start squeezing the fun lever and out the window goes your consumption curve, but then you knew that from practice....

I took a shot at my own throttle. Got asked about it so I put some pix in my gallery. No cruise, but an O-ring would do. Have a look, cheap enough to tackle yourself.

My free flight instructor taught his students with slow, bus-like Apco Primas. They weren't slow to someone who hasn't flown (omfg I'm FLYING!), but did indeed turn like manatee driven buses just as soon as the fear of something new went away and things began becoming automatic. Very soon we began crawling up one side of risers in weight shift to make things sportier. The same *may* apply to you in your training (self or otherwise). As Simon noted, best something to discuss with your instructor (self or otherwise) as they will be better suited to guide you toward the wing that will serve you the longest for your flight goals - which honestly will change right directly after you realize how seriously wide the sport is, and what path within it you wish to follow. whew. So, while you may have settled on the two wings you listed for your reasons, be assured those reasons are subject to change with your perspective of the sport. This makes the decision harder, but also exposes the requirement to plan for what you want. Also do note that as you transition from groundling to pilot, the perspective adjustment can come like a slap in the face with a flounder, ie. I didn't realize....x, y, z I DHV 1 glider will keep you safer while you "get your chops up" but you will also outgrow more quickly. For some it's a good choice, others regret it. A 1-2 will offer room to grow skills, but may also scare the bejeebies out of you as you discover the 2 rated bits when you weren't looking for them. Probably not the recommendation you were looking for, but hopefully brain fodder anyway. Any way you look at it, you'll never be the same.

105 is free flight all up weight. Since a wing doesn't care what's hanging under it, we can extend that to motors, but the all up for paramotor is listed as 160. http://www.para2000.info/wings/paramania/fusion.html your mileage will really vary...

Here is the original video. http://tinyurl.com/l3wa2r I don't know how to share the original HD version (20min) in HD outside Facebook. Vimeo=fail (500mb limit), Youtube=fail (over 10min). This is a facebook served copy and it looks like the low res version...