t_andrews

Wish this were true for Eastern Canada...

There's a reason it has the nickname 'evilbay'. FWIW I purchased my old solo off ebay advertised as an f-33 from someone who knew better. After it was sold/won, he offered to sell it to at least one underbidder and during the auction I got at least three scam emails from folks pretending to have a better deal. Neither Ebay (the pusher) or paypal (the money launderer) would admit fault or assist me, choosing to protect the thief. It had to go to court for any of them to pay attention. The niche market was easy prey for scammers I guess, and probably why they jumped on your auction so quickly. That and the trademarked 'paramotor' name gave them lots of grief when the owner ensured it was enforced. Sorry to hear of the mandatory paypal though not surprised. Keep in mind though just because you have to list it with paypal doesn't mean the transaction happens that way. Make sure you have payment (including processed) before anything leaves your hands, as it is theirs once in shippers hands unless you stop the delivery truck yourself...

This should prove quite controversial, and while your local laws may be respected, this proves you are, as pilot in command, responsible for all your flight decisions and homework. When I see "beautiful" videos of a PPG low flying and dispersing/chasing a terrorized flock of anything, I cringe at how it will eventually affect the sport, let alone the animals that are scared off to abandon a nest, or whatever. Just because one can is a pretty lame excuse when faced with consequences. Some things however, are a bit of a surprise when they come back to bite you: http://www.footflyer.com/Articles/News/ ... ndians.htm What are your thoughts on this situation? As Ed posted on the Oz Tip to Tip route, the natives may be restless, and getting one's mosquito swatted in the outback would be most unwelcome.

Just noticed this link while watching the worlds: http://paramotors.xcontest.org/world/en/ Includes a link to European airspace restriction overlays for mapsource. I welcome someone's input if they try it.

Bent the crank?? Is your mate ok!? Seems one would have to pile in awful hard to bend a crank? Sounds messy.

33:1 mix is a safe bet for lubrication for sure. The reason folks may go thinner is to cut costs and also to limit the amount of coking that happens faster with a higher oil content. Since coking makes for nasty hard bits that can score a piston bore, less is more. The reason to be particular is just because you can't pull over like an ATV or bike. Engine outs are just a bigger deal is all and that's only true if you XC at all. If you buzz around a home field at a reasonable altitude, then so what if your engine quits. Same if you always leave yourself glide to an LZ. General advice is all. YMMV Mixing oils may never cause you a problem, but mix the right two oils at the right temp and gelling can block your main jet enough to cause an engine out or (some may say worse depending on situation) lean your engine out, melt a piston/ damage a bore and cost a fair bit to repair. Even then you may never know it was the oil gelling that caused it since a teardown happens anyway. Not saying it will happen, just that the chances are greater when a consistent oil type isn't used. If you run it dry and refill with a different oil mix, the leftovers from the last tankful are less significant then if you top up a half full tank so the two oils have lots of time to do their gelling thing. It shouldn't be a big fuss, just something to think about when switching oils.

Simonini had told me not to use synthetic, but the manual also says the never exceed EGT temp is 1076. Both suggestions come from someone who makes and supports engines. I suspect they were referrring to break-in oil choice to seat rings and such where synthetics are a bit too slippery. I run amsoil in my Mini2 now that it's past break-in. Castrol TTS is equally synthetic although is sold to have better mixed storage stability. Does it?? Who knows. How does one measure such a thing? I've never put much stock in oils separating in a shaking tank, and would expect a paper filter to isolate the parts quicker. I add octane to my fuel, but we have 92 at the pump and mini2 calls for 98. Tried both and honestly can't tell the difference, but higher octane becomes important when an engine is out of tune, carboned or mistimed. Like running too lean, detonation does it's damages in seconds. I suggest picking an oil and sticking to it though, for the reasons I posted above.

I was an idiot once, then I got learned. Now I'm smrt. I don't understand the geographic slur, if it's based on latitude I could be a northerner too? Southerner? Gee I hope I'm the better of the two. When requesting a person be banned based on their geography, please include a reference Lat/long for the rest of us lest we not take offense when we should? On item worth mentioning regarding oil is mixing them: http://www.ultralightnews.ca/articles/twocycleoil.htm Raises a valid point not just on oil selection, but switching oils without cleaning the system of previous. I've read the same thing about 4 cycle oils gelling or generating sludge in a car's oilpan. Glad you got your power back leoibb, keep in mind the high mix screw will require adjustment anytime the weather changes significantly. That includes High/low pressure whether it rains or not. Leaning out a little isn't bad until you do it for too long. Lots of folks out there just fly them until the run gets too long, then they get themselves learned. Also: could a brit define tick-over before I use it incorrectly (possibly again). Your audience is global.

Board mods please consider a sticky for this? No offense Malc, but the same question repeats over and over and the answer is always a subjective one. Also please keep in mind that your repeating the question: http://paramotorclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2581 Will only serve to dilute the answers, and generate noise, hiding the answers you're obviously keen to find. Have a look at an ongoing thread: http://paramotorclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2576

Finally got my Vino out in the cold, but was stuck with forwards as the forecast came up with nil winds. Ok, 5kph gusts... http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=iv3WrDn1rNg&fmt=22 Not embedding because the small version is mangled by youtube - view in HD for any clarity as my camera guy decided to use the zoom and not the monopod to stabilize the video. He wasn't near as warm as I was either and it shows. Glad to get it out of the bag though finally as it warmed up to -8C. Inflates and centers itself, you just have to get it moving. More in the video description. Looking forward to some windy ground handling. Anyone seen a hint of a manual?

I hope You realize the answer to your question is just a bunch of opinions. This is like asking what car to buy or what house to buy. Truth is, only you know your flight goals and requirements. Overload yourself with details about all of them effectively becoming as much an expert as your level of risk will determine is enough to be sure you are making an informed decision. Mix in what you plan to do with the motor and consider you may change your focus once you've been exposed to the sport for awhile. Filter out brands by noise you hear/read about them and levels of after-purchase service you expect/require. Try some on. Fly some if you have option to. Google: http://www.ehow.com/video_4467377_choosing-large-paragliding-motor.html http://www.flyaboveall.com/buyersguideppg.htm Sift through the numerous threads already on this board and others. Basically jam your head full of information and the motor for you will rise to the top. Good luck with it.

This one? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ground-Handling-Wing-Paramotor-Paraglider_W0QQitemZ130282248422QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_SportingGoods_OtherSports?hash=item130282248422&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 It's vintage 1993: http://www.para2000.org/wings/ailesdek/cruisair.html But IMHO having a wing that's a dog to inflate and control teaches more about groundhandling then a newer more docile wing that's designed out the difficulty of managing it. It's probably got a sticky hard point and questionable porosity, but isn't outside the range of reasonable pricing for a ground rag. If you get your grass stains with this, a new wing will be like a revelation to you when the time comes. Play risers in a reverse like a harp. Good luck with it. BTW copy url, hit the 'url' tag below, paste, hit url tag to close. Mouseover offers options.

Must set up some sticks to kick too, it looks like fun: http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=gOnzph8SMwI This fellow uses the bar between banks it looks like. Cloverleaf competition. Nice Smooth transitions. :21 sec odd pilot yaw, precession as he throttles up for the turn?

Intake silencer would be a welcome addition and was considered, but discounted due to power loss from intake drag and even more weight. Perhaps Ram air would offset the drag? I may yet try one, as I consider it well over 50% of the noise (aside from prop) from the mini2 with current silencer. That is, the intake noise is more then the exhaust in duration and volume. Sounds odd, but I believe it to be true. A gasp louder then an explosion? Maybe I'm thinking lesser of two audibles here or just considering the intake as one noise I can further control. Caveat is that my only test method to date has been a line of ear shield of the intake while running engine up, so reflective noises notwithstanding and I've not heard a mini2 with intake silencer. I do know that carvingair's solo is the quietest machine I've met to date, with only the intake silencer as variation from the other solos I've met, including my identically exhausted old rig. So I respect the capability of a simple intake tube to muffle the high strung wheezing. Sometimes I'm envious of other machines midrange rpm volume output, but justify it on mine with climb rate. My cheeseburgers storage facilities agree. In denial? Be interesting to see dbs for rpm matched mini2 (202), Solo210. Lots of other contributing variables though right down to age of belt/bearings/oil mix. Anyone ever hear of someone rigging a GEET system to a paramotor?

Many folks will tell you that French Canadians can be crazy, but they make a mean poutine! Wonder if that was Jacques? Besides, It's a "dry" cold.

For those folks who have a frozen surface at the moment. Maybe do a little spin training? Great fun from the driver's laugh.

Shaggy: http://paramotorclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2523 Folks are trying to answer your question already.

http://paramotorclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2486 Thread underway.

The camel shot: Almost looks like clipart until you look closely to see why. I would be scrambling to capture that one before they broke ranks. If it wasn't -20C outside and we had camels...

I seldom see this in practice, and have not had to do it myself (whew) but my understanding is that as soon as a reserve is deployed, one's goal should be to disable the main canopy and get it as small as possible under pilot's control. Difficult enough on a windy hillside, but certainly makes sense to avoid fouling a deployed reserve. Is this taught for the smaller jump canopies? Or are they simply cutaway? Understandably the forces and riser lengths are different, but end goal is the same as controlled descent rate.

I knew single quotes wouldn't be sufficient on that post to avoid clarification/correction. It was a risk. Using a day to day analogy folks were familiar with, but Phil is correct. I oversimplified to the point of misleading. A coked piston can either cause run on or in some cases detonation, which is worse then dieseling for bearings, rings, or pistons. To be clear, smothering and flooding are the same thing too, they both snuff a flame, just from alternate ends of the combustion mixture spectrum. ie. remove oxygen or add too much fuel - same result. Like I said, I hope it's just electrical.

I hear you Phil. I'm Looking out at a -20C thermometer right now that makes me an armchair pilot. I had wondered how feasible this could be without a purpose built buggy of frame in general to retain shape, then I saw the enclosure in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB3ExpxaXb4 Looks like it's supported by feet, but purpose built free flight pod harnesses aren't really and option - are they? This tent-like affair may be a step forward.

This was my point. I appreciate a detuned engine if it improves reliability and extends time before overhaul (which it does indeed). My point was, if it is indeed detuned, then the factory hp/torque map is no longer accurate, yet seems to be happily presented as factual. I'm not knocking them as much as questioning whether they should be knocked. Compared to the WJ RR mini2 implementation, the Kobra is much more a "daily driver" but for the multi-cheeseburger pilot, more is better. Nothing is ideal without the circumstances it will be used in. To re-rail the thread, see aixro xr-50 'rotron engine' listed @ 15.4kg liquid cooled on parajet's site: http://www.parajet.com/index.php?id=122

You say "so sweet" meaning it worked really well in flight? EGT #? Be careful this isn't detonation keeping it running. Coked pistons can offer enough heat retention to 'diesel' on long after ignition has been cut. Smothering or flooding are then the only options. I hope it is just electrical as the alternate would need more effort and possibly parts. If electrical looks ok, roll piston to the bottom and have a look in the plug hole with a mirror if necessary. Low hours? High oil percentage?