t_andrews

Containers are sold separately because they're not always located in the event of a deployment. Also to allow for the myriad of mounting options on harnesses and gear in general. Some links: Classic Apco Mayday http://www.apcoaviation.com/products/7/7mayday.html General good advice for your reserve's health http://www.para-excellence.co.uk/reserves.html I'm not fond of the idea of throwing steering out the window just because my main canopy has chosen to misbehave in some horrendous fashion. I have not yet purchased one, but am leaning heavily toward the Vonblon designed NASA wing shape steerable: Who wants to float down into more trouble when some basic steering could put you at a reasonable LZ? My Preferred color for the retrieval folks: Reserves can be had on ebay or second hand for a pretty good price, provided you assume it will be checked, repacked and certified by a trusted rigger. My current round rig is 10kg larger then my all up mass. I got it second hand from a fellow in Germany. PM for details if interested in contacting him. This is one insurance policy you maintain yourself and everyone flying one should put their hand in the handle with a few seconds of mental deployment for every pre-trip to make it second nature when it's needed.

I think they are doing it because they can and they want to. Like all those things just mentioned that make us smile and feel alive.

Looks like they're limiting who can see this footage Been getting "This content doesn't seem to be working. Try again later" all day. Edit: seems the office didn't want me goofing off at work... filters and all that. Short clip, I look forward to seeing more of it. Bonus: driving a quad when landing off camber (beach footage @ 0:48 ).

Don't know how locked in these specs are, but they're better than wild speculation: http://www.parajet.com/index.php?id=122 Notes: Power Out Put: 40hp @ 7600rpm The wolfe engineering site cites: 44.25hp/33 kW at 8750 rpm I wonder if there's an rpm limiter planned, or the 7600rpm number was simply chosen to line up with today's parajet redrives? Either way, very interesting. I'm bracing for the eventual price-point and hope some volume is projected to make it more available to the masses. Bring it Gilo!

There's a lot of folks out there copying others and still others trying to forge their own brand. The Kobra snake looks an awful lot like the engine that started this thread, just rebranded as a Kobra engine. Not surprising since sky engines make engines to be sold for use in paramotors... They offer an air cooled engine too, the "Rocco" based on the mini2 plus. It all makes me question how valid any of their literature is, when I see the Kobra Rocco using the mini2 "Kobra" version, detuned to 24Hp, with a 2.7:1 redrive, and a WB37 yet still using the mini2's factory pipe generated hp and torque curve map just like the full factory pipe. This is either very very impressive getting what looks like much more out of less, or a big fat lie they're hoping no one will call them on. Marketing embellishments make me bitter because they prey on the uninformed and work to keep folks misinformed at least until a sale has been made. I'm not bashing the brand, just calling it like I see it. They have really cool branding.

http://www.theultralightplace.com/bing.htm May help for generality/math projected sizing. Did you lean out the jet needle clip setting? That is, put the clip on the top of the jet needle? (both for midrange only) There is a fellow in Alaska who has settled on a reliable in flight mixture adjustment setup. I've been trying to sort whether he'll do it for an 84 as well. http://www.ultralightnews.com/enginetro ... arrow2.htm With 54s and 84s used with great success on the solo, a 32 should work ok too? Once jetting is sorted. Best advise I can offer is: Jet your idle (if necessary) Jet your WOT (wide open) setting Then tune your midrange. (needle jet, and/or clip settings) My 84 on the mini2 (same displacement, more power) has a 156 main. FWIW prices for needle jets and mains and anything else bing is cheapest from bing. Order a couple more on each end of what you think you need as shipping fee is for a breadbox sized box.

Nice video. The editing it must have taken! I don't know if I've seen so many launches and landings in one video... Nice to line up some posts with visual too. Good, bad or ugly

The biggest benefit is stable head operating temp. With that should come longevity of internals. While I'm not sure how that is accomplished with simple convective heating on engine mentioned, I understand the intent is to maintain operating temps for extended full throttle, where air cooled engines may suffer heat soak and/or meltdown in the worst ambient conditions. Also to retain heat on idle. This engine is equipped with an overflow bottle, so expect the cap would vent if it over pressured giving a controlled boil over which should be pulled downwind by prop. If neglected though, it's not outside the realm of possibility that a hose could pop off and internal pressure direct boiling coolant in the pilot's direction. I expect that's what the original concerns were.

Water cooling is another maintenance item which can be neglected, but general longevity to time before overhaul is a nice tradeoff. I'd fly one if it weighed what the mini2 does with cooling system and made the same power at the same price. Looks like its convection based cooling... @ 18hp though, she's just too puny to push my cheeseburgers around. Only 13kg with liquids tho. Don't see a TBO listed. http://www.skyengines.com/en-us/?chiave=Features-Sky-100-engine Wish I had some exposure to them, but I'm just goofing off at work...

Anyone know what the descent rate would be in a stable helico like that? From the footage I've seen it looks slower then a reserve. Sats too.

Go flying with your buddies

They are indeed since wankels don't have a 'stroke' as much as an elliptical explosion path - power stroke they do have, although they overlap. I think the term is retained to denote the oiling system as part of the engine, vs part of the fuel burn. I was trying to find this again for my last post as it seems the closest to what a wankel does, yet remain in the realm of a piston engine. Long way to go to be a production machine, and I've not yet seen an actual engine running other then on air pressure, so I don't know (maybe designer doesn't either??) if it would even hold up to the uneven heat stresses - certainly innovative though: See 1:22 for his take on what a car engine would look like. shorter demo with cutaway:

Here's an example of precession in a similar model to a paramotor pegged for takeoff. Note the wobble when he turns the rig on. I think this is a significant force in daily flying that is misconstrued as torque steer since any change in prop disc plane results in a forward or back force application on risers. Because a glider depends on a self centered load, in flight there is no reference. Blame torque steer since we feel that on the ground. My friend has a paraski w 582 rotax and six blade prop (offset triples). Paraskis have rudders which offset torque steer, yet anytime he bangs the throttle or comes off it he gets riser twist to some degree. His rig is 500+lbs with him in it, but I can see this flying next to him. It is directly related to the rotational mass of the spinning disc and the speed of the plane orientation change. So, carbon props less so than wooden props. So, when your rig is wound up at takeoff rpm and your feet swing out in front of you... Note those folks who do the smooth lean back (eventual back problems) takeoffs don't get oscillations near so often. Try this on steady cruise power with some altitude: pull feet into harness, settle rig, then stick them out straight in front of you (change prop disc orientation via COG). If you get some side to side wobble, this makes sense. Right? Try it with different prop speeds - it should be most pronounced at takeoff power. Please don't go all trapeze artist and wind up 18 times! This is my theory and I'm sticking to it until convinced otherwise, which may occur at anytime

Not my best photo, but Simon's post made me dig this out because inversions do weird things to daylight. This was shot @ 10am bright sunny day from 4500'. Peaks below are 2000'. Bear country, New Brunswick Canada. http://paramotorclub.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=685 Your Simon does look like you're on the edge of space if the fields weren't so easy to see. Quite a contrast.

Here's what it drives like: On a fabric winged ultralight with ancillarys that folks so far have neglected to consider during power to weight calculations: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMGYx-P4iEY Kart example of response time and low end torque: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Huv2UJZS_w

For any video editor or wannabe - this got posted as a tool that a videographer used in both his commercial shop and the video he posted to the ppgbiglist: http://www.prodad.de/gb/mercalli_std_details.html Check the example vids. Impressive. a steadycam for your pc.

Mini2 manual says: Never exceed 1076F EGT. Yeah right that's never gonna happen... They're probably thinking with a higher wing loading on bar a frontal would be more dynamic and intense, or it just wasn't tested, or like simonini, they don't want warranty claims.

You may be surprised how heavy many production machines actually are dry weight. I don't know what benchmark is used to pick their numbers, but they're all over the map and most are advertised lower then you'll ever see them in the wild. Maybe they proudly announce the motor weight without cage, or without harness, but ready to fly means the full meal deal to me biners and all. My machine is a mini2 WJ RR clone, with exception of my own battery box and a digitron gauge with egt/cht/tach leads, strobes. It is pretty much the same weight as yours dry. Mind you I've a 7AH lead acid in the mix which adds a few pounds but I can't see it dropping below 33kg for a NiCad version. All wet (14l) I'm huffing 43Kg before the wing takes the weight. This is why I'm not fond of running... 50kg of thrust for 1/3 or less the price of a commercial rig is fair play and plenty for day to day cruising. The old solo 210 I had weighed the same and only made 50kg of thrust. Heavy is relative...

Joe, http://para2000.org/wings/trekking/parawing.html Your parawing is made of the heavy stuff on top, probably get patched with skytex underneath. Line connect seam tear bad, mylar insufficient unless you're escaping a bog. Please do update your blog when you get that seam patched up. I'm enjoying the read as it's sort of the path I took with my last build. Kudos on the size of investment so far. Your rig looks well put together too. What is dry weight? All up?

All the videos posted on this thread so far have something in common in that they seem extreme to those who don't do it, but it's all what you're used to. I heard about paragliding at lunch one day while my current sport was kiteboarding. I later deemed kiteboarding a misguided attempt to fly... Jamie just needs to wrap his head around PPG and he might become the next world champ - he's certainly comfortable in the air!

For that a good kiteshop can probably fix you up at a fair price. Pull material specs for them from para2000.org for your wing. For small tears and bug chomps I've used mylar tape (clear stuff) on both sides of the problem area. Best to get some nylon thread (or whatever kitefolk use) in there if it's significant damage though. Every time I give the wing a look over I check my small repairs and none has ever moved or peeled, so it's probably good until next rigger inspection with this stuff. I got it from a web site in bulk 2" strips. Don't recall where, but there were many sources. Like: http://www.kiteshop.co.uk/xcart/kites/k ... p1363.html

Easy fix that. Never heard of araldite, but even a wood glue will do it if you seal the whole thing after sanding - that is after all how they got those laminant layers together after all. Doesn't look like you lost any bits. If there are chips missing, glue the split first, then wet chipped spots with superglue and dust wet spots with baking soda to build up. Not all superglue works the same I think it's the isocyanates that bond with the soda. It forms an instantly hard epoxy which once built up can be sanded to form to prop shape again. I've fixed a few hapless props this way and seen what looked like a jigsaw puzzle fly again by another's hand. Make sure it's clean/dry in the split, glue/epoxy, clamp and let set. Sand to smooth again and check balance (lawnmower blade balancer will get you pretty close). That prop can fly again. When you get the chance, make it your spare. References: http://www.ultralightnews.ca/articles/proprepair.htm http://www.aerocorsair.com/id43.htm

.....and flare!

Jock, You might give Matt a ring at recpower.com (hirth f-36 <-new name for solo 210 - dealer) he set me up with an old tuned pipe for my solo back in the day. Good guy who offered more help then I deserved calling cold for some old forgotten pipe. Save your money and some weight on the big head and build yeself a duct: http://www.aerocorsair.com/id108.htm Wish I had seen this first, those big heads are mighty heavy (like 4-5x the original).

Wish I could comment on Alt accuracy for the Huger Meteowatch, but I use it more for wind speeds and lean on the gps/vario for alt. From http://www.geologie-service.de/datenbl/Hu-2000/m8105-e.htm Does barometric trending, temp, all the stuff on listed on link above. Beats dragging a pocket meter around and (more specifically - forgetting it at the bank ).