t_andrews

For those unaware of this, posting that you might check before it's too late. Bing Needle can wear through circlip and disabled off idle power. It's a simple fix, although bing has parts to sell you. Basic vibration isolation 101. Details: http://www.ultralightnews.ca/bing/needleclipupdate.html May want to check for wear if you never have, Those needles spin a LOT.

I agree that less is more when inflating in general. If winds are sufficient, teasing the A's is redundant as well. Turn and load a wing, and away it will go. I'm not sure how this method got branded mitsos as I'm sure it's been around as long as four risers has, but regardless it wins out over A's and brakes in my book for medium/high wind launches. When one becomes comfortable with this method they can begin to float the wing anywhere in the wind window partially depowered, and anyone having used both will agree that it adds a level of control that brakes cannot mostly because one need not drop any riser to offer inputs. With brakes as input, there may be a time where insufficient travel exists and hands must come off A's to stop/slow ascent of one side, or overshooting. At that point direct control is abandoned. C risers are also more effective at depowering and disabling a wing NOW. Using A-C was stressed in my free flight training, without the mention of 'Mitsos'. It is a staple I depend on to avoid grass stains.

And I was just kidding... Orange or not, it beats getting flown over from lack of being seen. I retract the colorblind bit as you were a victim of circumstance.

Would you though? Get a good spark? Isn't spark generation dependent on the woodruff spinning one bit inside the other? It would certainly explain both weak spark and timing. Also, when central shaft heats up with runtime, it would grab the sleeve better, making a warm start easier? Speculating, because I don't have to go check these things

I don't know what's inside it, but you don't generally see silencers with hot spots: This suggests there's something going on here except muffling. The end cap to which the Blue sleeve is riveted is heated to purple (guessing mild steel by welds). The original silicone hose quickly split and was replaced with a bit of radiator hose, so the temps inside the "cat" may indeed be caused by something other than direct exhaust gases as I would not expect a radiator hose to stand up well to carrying those temps - which it is. It doesn't jive that a manufacturer would do this, as you'd expect failure in short order of a traditional cat with all the premixed oil. Go figger.

I had not heard of that ever happening and so dismissed it as a suggestion. It would toast timing though.

Kill switch grounds correct? If so, check your arm switch - the circuit that enables feed voltage to coil. If this circuit has high resistance (corroded switch, wire, whatever) it can limit coil feed voltage and leave you with worsening spark. It can still pass a continuity check with high resistance like a stove element... Ohm reading on that circuit should be near zero. You said coil resistance was nominal - what about lead wire? Also, the screw fitting inside the wire that hooks to plug can unscrew or get mucked with after pulling it off a plug N number of times. At least you're narrowing cause down.

If this is in keeping with a paramotor themed item, then: A strobe light put together by the new guy, who turned out to be color blind...

Your backing plate may have moved: http://www.southernskies.net/page_info/ ... stall.html See Step 9 May also want to check the continuity on your ignition enable circuit. A bad switch or high resistance in the line somewhere can cause pitifully weak spark too. Ask me how I know... Either one could explain progressively worsening starts.

There is no 'best' to use. Matter of preference and use. The last with the silencer has the most efficient pulse scavenge (tuning to pull more fuel/air in). If you have lots of power though, big hairy deal which pipe is more efficient. My point was that *because* it's more efficient, you could be pulling in more air then fuel, since you didn't change your jets, just your pipe. This can lead to a lean condition and possibly melting something you are rather fond of and/or depend on to go up and down reliably. Suggest you have a look at a "chopped" plug color to determine if this need be a concern for you or not. As an aside, I was told the blue bit (silencer) is actually a 'catalytic-converter' which makes little sense to me, but did drip copious amounts of liquid on my first run-up. If it was in fact catalytic, I doubt it is now given 2 stroke mixing oil.

Sorry Pete, looks like Simon had it first. He even nailed the tank. Name your poison Simon.

I've had good luck with a heat pad in each glove: http://store.everestgear.com/372100.html They fit in boots too and are usually pretty hot if they get enough air and you squeeze them. I've found that with a pair of leather mechanic's gloves they will do for temps right to freezing with little to no insulation. That leaves fingers in gloves without the seams on the fingertips - pet peeve. I like them because they're simple and don't require power (and the extra weight). If your flight is over, a ziplock bag will suspend the heat until next time. I've had an 12-5v adapter drag my battery down before even in cruise flight. Uncool. One neat idea I saw once was use of a pole and an eskimo style common mitt. Toggles were attached to ends of a collapsible lock-on-extend pole and the mitt was in the center, where arms sealed each end for toasty hands together in lap flying. This was a free flight setup, but a parajet or other small throttle shouldn't be difficult to include. Setup not likely good for aerobatics...

Without offering any hints, I've asked the generator of said photo result to judge the closest answer (I will honor the beverage offer). Some have been more specific then others, but the most specific, closest to actual cause guess gets it. Feel free to edit your guesses.

http://www.blusky.co.za/tips-caring02.html Friend of mine salted (ocean dip) his wing and had to rinse it to get the crystals out. He said that alone brought back some of the crispyness and cleaned a lot of the dirt and stains off.

High temp silicone. Suggest you wire first, then fill the springs with it. I still get some buzzing from safety wire.

Was going to ask how you were flying, but I guess you answered that with 48kph. Headwind/Tailwind? Climbing? Crabbing? Mini2 @ 5krpm = 2.2lph, but @ 48kph you were more than that? Is your new exhaust like: ? ? ? Where vacuum scavenging is more efficient as the pipes evolve. If you went from the first to the last you may need to rejet since you could be pulling in more air then your jets are set to match. A purple pipe is not uncommon, but generally happens when running on the lean mixture edge for longer periods on a safely (richer rather then leaner) tuned engine. I didn't log this, so admit an estimation, but my pipe went something like: I was surprised top see how blue things got, but these correspond to my memory and flight length when I finally got jetted properly. Prior to that I was so rich that the pipe looked new (maybe a light yellow hue). I have since burnt almost 10l in just over an hour climbing through an inversion to 4500feet. Your burn is not outrageous for a fast flight and to climb to 2k while flying that fast, not bad at all I would think.

First to name the item and guess what caused what is shown in picture earns a beverage of their choice to be administered when they visit eastern Canada or I visit wherever they are. Here goes, hold on:

This comparison is missing range, or time to destination. Did you intend to imply these measurements for the same trip in similar conditions? It's a slippery slope consumption is when comparing different things with more than one variable. I'm not trying to question your measurements, rather to ask for qualification. One almost needs a flight commute at cruise to determine fuel burn comparison. That is, the small action covered a fair bit more ground burning 7lph all other things being equal (which they never are). Cruise flights for identical wing loadings averaged are probably the best way to get an efficiency reading and even then, they have to be the most boring flights ever to maintain steady cruise. Hit some throttle adjusting sink, meet a gust front or wind direction change and kablooey goes the data set unless it's averaged into larger pool. My gps (garmin 76cs) with the garmin mapsource data provides a flight graph showing alt and distance. If some repository online could consume these and categorize, we might eventually have some baseline for what to expect from any recorded wing, motor, or combination thereof. Even suggest a combination for upgrading pilots based on flight characteristics and weight... Like any database though - garbage in = garbage out Neat idea with a lifetime of work behind the pretty interface...

first off, mods please redirect as needed - this little motor will be subject of a great deal of talk I imagine. Another thread on the go now? I asked wolfe about fuel consumption curve or anything they had to offer, but probably got dismissed as some internet kook or they simply didn't have the data. They did note that most of the use it's seen has been on/off throttle as one would expect from a kart engine. It is a water cooled engine, and I don't think the cooling system (rad/hoses) are included in weight as they usually are part of a kart. Water pump I think is external - manual suggests jack-shaft driven from wheels (section 5.1http://www.woelfle-engineering.com/GB/Produkte/Betriebsanleitung.pdf). I asked about thermostatic regulation and never got answered. Likely no friendly answer. I think it's a sweet engine, but it remains as a "cool to have" in my book until some plain questions get answered. 1) Fuel burn curve 2) total weight (cooling system, optional starter) 3) cooling system integrated or home grown? 4) insert things you'd like to know I can get a mini2 engine ready to bolt up for 3.2k CAD, and everything I read about the aixro xr50 suggests it starts @ 5k CAD with no redrive or cooling. This is no shock for a race specific engine, which is what it was developed for, but still keeps fiscal sepraration between proven engines and what may be next. Wolfe was working on a smaller displacement to possibly field the needs of 100ccish paramotor users today, but that's not what interested this more massive fellow. Imagine how smooth and *relatively* vibration free a rotary powered ppg would be. 4 stroke - even though it's a wankel it should sip fuel in comparison to a 2 stroke. With an inflight adjustable, you could dial it up for a blast into the air and tune it back for torque curve @ X cruise rpm. Looking forward to Gilo's offering as he's the first I've heard to be working on a paramotor implementation. Probably a spin-off from the everest expedition and the contacts/friends made through that effort. Exciting times. Giddyup 2009.

cheers all!

Simon's right about speed range access to pilot. Used to be to slow down it was on the way to full flare... Wings have been a long way coming to this point to change (effective) wing loading in flight. I've seen photos of wings that shorten along their length in flight to achieve what the reflex profiles do today. From http://www.expandingknowledge.com/Jerome/PG/History/Strange/Album.htm That said, I think it will always be a challenge to maintain altitude when one increases sink rate / wing loading / speed regardless how they do it. Eventually we'll see something get published that is an effective "Thrust polar" so a pilot will be able to judge whether the motor or thrust they currently fly with will be enough under wing 'x'. Right now they are happily separated from any mention of motor. How many times have you heard someone upgraded once they got a faster wing? I'm not holding my breath for that, but it's a natural progression. Now, if that aixro xr50 http://www.woelfle-engineering.com/ (4stroke, clutched, and 48hp @ 33lbs) wasn't $5000 out of the box, and came with an in-flight adjustable this would all be moot... It is the future like reflex was to keep full trimmed pilots climbing.

http://www.para2000.org/wings/paramania ... peeds.html Hopefully this will fill in as it gets reviewed. Anyone seen a manual yet? BTW I've answered my own question regarding what weight is used to calculate glide ratio when I did the forehead slap and read the wing loading published with every para2000.org wing. Simply multiply wing loading by area (size chosen) and you have test mass for glide. Criteria remain unknown - ie. they may average the high and low tested mass to come to the results they do, and they are probably biased one way to favor high numbers. It's all about wing loading after all. This must have been too obvious for someone to offer as an answer? I'd feel stupid if I wasn't enlightened. Enjoy the holidays folks. -T

You noted you prefer to fly the fusion on slow trim - could that be cause for the increase in mileage or do you figure the time aloft is the same?

Any update on compared fuel burn Simon? You were watching it for that run you made so often?

Fuel Gauge: http://www.ultralightnews.ca/fuelsystem/fuelgauge.html These folks have been impossible to get a response from tho... Regarding Simon's suggestion, I found a 200ml bottle locally as a child's pop/soda bottle at my local megagrocery. Sturdy cap that won't come loose and bottle is a little thicker than the thin walled plastic bottles that are common here (Eastern Canada). Probably the same blank used for 200ml as 500ml. unlikely to be punctured. About the size of an apple. Good advice that if you expect to drop in somewhere to top up and certainly worth the flight weight of 10L mixed for the flight home. Nice decal post too - snagged me a copy, thanks.