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Does your pull-start extend far enough so you can stand up fully when it is attached to your foot? I find I can stand on one leg for half a second whist I kick the motor. Another option is to enlarge the decompression hole, so that it's easier to tun over. Be careful with the cylinder plating though- you should use a domed dremel to smooth of the edges. I have done this recently, and as a result it's much easier to start. There's also no loss of performance, as we use these motors at high rpm, and the decompression hole only affects low rpm.

It's very likely that your plug is "fouled", this is due to a mixture that is too rich at one part of the rev range. If your motor won't make full rpm, this sounds like your problem... -N

After doing SIV, and testing my reserve... Buy a BIG reserve. 5.5m/s is VERY fast, and designed to save your life, but not your back and bones etc

I have these: http://noisebuster.net/hard-hat-cap-mount-features.html Best $150 I ever spent. They cut out the low frequency noise from the prop - turning the ANR off and on is like night and day. The Passive muffs actually make the low frequency noise worse imho. I can now fly until my tank is empty...

"Clouds are wet" says it all really

FYI, lead acid batteries don't like being drained. In fact, once they are drained fully, best to throw them away. They won't last after. NIMH batteries like to be drained though

I have a 3 part PAP frame which has proved tough and reliable for the last 4 years (still on my original prop). However, I would really like a unit that fits in just one box to make travelling with family easier, now that I live in Singapore and have to cross borders to fly PPG at all. Options are they see it are: - 2nd hand zenith - new Matrix Hornet - Plastic Fantastic (http://www.paramotor-renegade.com/ cheap at USD$1700) Is the zenith frame as strong as the PAP? The Matrix looks strong, but doubt I could get one 2nd hand! Are there any other options? Which would you go for? Nick

Dammit... now I want one... But I cannot find any spec's on the bailey website?? Is it currently for sale or still in development?

Bailey Hornet + Ozone Roadster 32m (yeah, I know they don't make a 32m... yet...). -N

PPGPS for android

The reason they are not more popular imho is the price - 199 Euros is a lot of mulah for some plastic bits of metal, even if there is some pretty good engineering behind it. Compare that to a "bicycle" style throttle at less than 5 Euros. I believe the owner of the business would actually make more $$ if they reduced the price to a more reasonable US$99...

http://www.ehow.com/about_4675032_fogging-oil.html

"Fogging Oil" is an option if you want to store it...

Pity they don't have a size 30m for us fat bastards...

I have the PA125, and don't use the recommended holes for my weight. In fact I am two holes off what PAP recommends. This is so a can get around a 5-10 degree angle (closer to vertical) when powered, and 15-20 when landing. The lesser angle means less possibility of riser twist. But just make sure your cage does not come too close to your brakes (otherwise your hang angle will be negative, or facing down). Works well for me, and for a buddy of mine that flew the PAP ROS125. -N

Really like the frame... Wonder if it will be available separately, and whether he cost will be reasonable.

The delta 2 only has one or two 'C's as well, but is completely outside my current skill range . I was advised against the speedster for free flight, mainly because of the sink rate. But it would be better for high wind to be sure. Horses for courses. Too much choice makes the decision on a new wing so much harder. Heard there may be another shark nose wing coming our way from ozone (not the viper), although that could just be a vicious rumour...

cool. They should last as long as ones from Walkerjet.

I have the Buzz Power. I wanted a wing that was good for both free flight and PPG. First, let me say its not a super fast wing like the speedster. And as I only have ~200 hours wanted something that was not ENC rated. I'm not that convinced that speed and reflex are where I want to be. I know reflex wings are less likely to collapse, but when they do, it may not be recoverable. However, the Buzz is no slouch (in PG terms anyway). I came from a 2007 Nova Rookie wing which was also no slouch (8.4 glide), and I have to say Buz does everything better. It's child's play to get the wing up, really, launches could not be easier. I took it on a Paragliding only trip to Nepal, the site in Pokhara had some punchy thermals that really was much rougher than anything I had ever experienced before. The Buzz was rock solid. I had one minor asymmetric that pop'd out in less than a second, and considering the air I was flying in, was pretty confidence inspiring. What's more, I actually spent quite a bit of time looking down at other pilots, instead of looking up if you know what I mean It's also more manoeuvrable than my old wing. Brakes are more progressive. And as for flaring, it's like night and day. Superb. I did not get the chance to demo the Buzz before I bought it, but I have no regrets whatsoever. I have a few friends that have the light version of the Buzz, they have no complaints. God, sound like an Ozone dealer, perhaps I will ask mine for a discount next time! Check out : http://www.dhv.de/web/en/safety/safety-tests/ And there is also a good review of the PG version in thermic magazine (in german).

Any orings used for the head gasket and exhaust should be the high temperature viton type, otherwise they won't last...

I did it this way: 1. got a decent strap wrench (or a tool designed to hold/turn round items) something like: Mine has an aluminium handle and a strong rubber strap/gripper. I used this to hold the clutch, while I undid the nut. 2. used flywheel puller to pull off old clutch (if it proves a pain to get off with gentle persuasion). The first time I did this it was a PITA, the second it came off easily without having to use the puller. My puller looks something like: 3. replaced clutch with new one along with key 4. tightened nut with torque wrench using the strap wrench again to hold the clutch. 5. had cold beer (not warm like you silly northern hemisphere folks). You could also do it by: 1. stuffing copious amounts of starter cord down the spark plug hole (stops piston from moving) 2. use wrench to undo clutch nut (make sure you are not pulling on the starter cord/handle by turning the engine over) 3. use brute force, or flywheel puller to pull off old clutch 4. replace clutch with new one, along with key 5. tighten nut with torque wrench (make sure you are not pulling on the starter handle/cord by turning the engine over) But I guess personally I just don't like the strain that puts on the big and little end bearings. In any case, depending on whether you are a "tool guy" you'll may need to find a flywheel puller that has arms small enough to fit behind the clutch and perhaps a strap wrench too. A decent tool shop should have what you need, and not much $ now that most of this stuff is made in china. If you need to replace the clutch bell as well, pap has a video on how to remove it at: http://youtu.be/ihAZr1IhcBo -N

I know some airlines expressly forbid engines, but if the airline accepts them as checked baggage, and you pack it as per their specifications, surely you should be okay from a legal perspective? I flew on a lufthansa flight that did not specify engines as allowed or not allowed, I queried it before I got on, and after a few phone calls, it was good to go. Bit of a surprise that was, but good on them for being reasonable. It seems only the US is one of the only countries that has a blanket ban on motors as checked baggage.

I have flown with my motor as checked baggage to quite a few countries now, no issues (touch wood). The procedure I follow is: Pull the motor off the frame clean everything, pull the carb apart and clean any fuel. Wrap the engine in lots of layers of cling wrap, then bubble wrap, then two plastic bags and zip ties. Put the engine in a regular suitcase. The fuel tank gets special attention as well, its rinsed with water & soap, and wrapped in many many layers of cling wrap, then two plastic bags again. I throw away the fuel line, and primer, and take a new set with me. These stink of fuel, cannot easily be cleaned, and are easy to replace. The rest of the frame goes in a custom case I had made from a place that does surfboard covers. Jetstar/Quantas has a procedure for taking engines on their planes, so I usually try any fly with them. See http://www.qantas.com.au/dangerousgoods ... r-2013.pdf

Do a search on ebay for "plunger primer", but probably too late for you? Or you could try and find a Jetski / snowmobile shop in the UK?

If you use a free-fly harness, does your wing fly straight?