notch

check out : http://www.wind-drifter.com/technical/wg8walbro.php

From your description, its more likely you could be running lean, if it's smooth and no smoke. Disassemble the carb and check and clean it, and also the internal filters. Are you using an in-line fuel filter in to hose into the carb? Has the carb been put together correctly? If that doesn't help, look for scoring marks on the cylinder. You may have lost compression. Is it easier to pull start?

Is it running "lumpy" or firing every second cycle (four stroking), with lots of smoke out the exhaust? If so, you could be running rich? Is the choke lever disengaged? If that's not the issue, I would pull the head off and check the cylinder.

The DK's were pretty popular in the USA, could try posting on the ppgbiglist...

When you machine a cylinder it's always going to be to a tolerance. Having two sizes means that more of their cylinders match the tolerance specifications, and less are thrown in the bin/reworked.

I could be wrong, but I think this is the internal diameter of the cylinder. i.e. a B cylinder must be matched to a B size piston etc.

An auto parts shop is your best bet for gasket paper. It doesn't have to look pretty, but it MUST seal, and have no gaps that let air in. Use the cylinder as a template, and make sure you don't block off the ports that feed gas to the piston. Funnily enough, I have just finished installing an annealed copper base gasket on my engine as I got sick of having to replace it every 20 hours or so. But that's a lot harder to make, than one out of gasket paper.

The 2000m part is what probably saved your engine from melting down. Probably would have been a different story at sea level...

What he said. http://www.dansmc.com/gaskets.htm I would create a template from paper first, rather than using a hammer... PAP use 0.8mm gasket paper, but dunno about H&E

Its a bad idea. You will have increased compression, and air leaks, both of which will make your engine far more likely to detonate.

Sounds like your idle mixture is too rich. A smaller idle jet? If this has just started happening (you haven't moved countries or changed altitudes), then there may be something else causing it - loss of compression, worn reeds, carb issue etc.

HE make parts for PAP, but they are different engines, to PAP's specification.

Just a tip - put locktite on your head bolts to make sure they don't come loose. They screw down onto a soft aluminium head, as well as a soft base gasket, so will come loose after a few hours. So, make sure you re- torque them after ~3 hours running. However, don't over tighten them as this will cause the base gasket to break apart (been there done that). Then, as part of your post flight checks, check for oil around the base gasket - if there is any, it probably means you need a new gasket, or the head bolts need re-torquing. I also use gasket sealant on my bask gasket to improve its sealing ability, after finding air leaks there with just the standard gasket.

Unscrewing the L screw makes the carb richer not leaner, i.e. 3T out = rich 1.5T out = normal 1 turn out = lean My engine won't run with 3 turns out, so you either have a massive air leak somewhere, or a carb with a load of crap in it. Do you have an in-line fuel filter? Was the petrol from a "good" source?

If it makes a hollow sound when you open the throttle quickly, that's classic lean behaviour. If it runs rough (fires every other cycle) it's too rich. Try richening your carb settings and see if it gets any better. No one ever blew a motor from it being too rich...

That's classic detonation. I's not caused by sand, unless the sand got into your carb fuel line. Its's caused by: 1) too lean a mixture, or 2) ignition timing not set correctly, 3) really crap fuel 1) can be caused by many things, badly adjusted carb, an air leak in the crankcase (were your head bolts loose?), crap in the carb filters, bad carb membranes, a fuel restriction in the supply line - e.g. primer bulb, or forgetting to open the tank vent valve, etc. 2) can happen if it was wrong from the factory, or the timing flywheel has slipped on the crankshaft (have that happen). Make sure you have gotten all the metal from the bottom end of the crankcase out before you think about putting it back together again.

Argh! There was a flow restriction valve inside the fuel tank cap It has now been placed in a round filing receptacle.

I have a PAP setup, and am considering removing the primer bulb from the fuel system because I travel a lot and the primer bulb always stinks of fuel. I have tried priming my carb by blowing on the vent hose, but jeezzz... I had to blow so hard to get the fuel to the carb I thought my eyes were going to pop out... Any tips on making this easier? Must be the same distance roughly for all ppg set-ups?

135Kg + ~6Kg for the wing gives 141kg - I'd say you would be okay... BUT it's totally up to you. I was corrected a while back by ozone to include the weight of the wing in these calc's as well From a safety perspective: Light = less severe reaction to collapses when they happen Heavy = Less chance of collapse but more severe when they do occour By the sounds of it you will be within the wings certified weight range with and without fuel. I wish I could get a wing that was certified for my weight. Sadly, I've eaten too many pies.

And if you haven't already, include the weight of the wing in your calculations.

if you can catch a fingernail in the scores on the bore then it may be affecting performance a slight amount, but if not, forget about them.

More pressure for longer on the A risers? Let off a bit of trim?

Its only really a problem if your engine is running lean. Without a load (prop) and normal mixture, most two strokes cannot achieve anything approaching max RPM. They bog down and fire every other cycle (four stroking), and then every 3rd cycle etc etc.

If you had stored the same fuel in a metal container with metal lid, it would have lasted much longer. Plastic is porous to petrol vapour. Stick a sticker on your plastic tank, and see how long it lasts before it falls off.

I have just got this wing. Wanted something for free flight with excellent sink/glide, that could also be used for PM, and 'low ENB' safety. Speed is not a huge priority for me. It's very well made, huge attention to detail. Risers are primo, magnets without clasps, and options for low and high hang points without the noisiness of two hook in positions. I have yet to fly it, just got it Wednesday, but will let you know how it goes.