Guest Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 For want of a new thread about this......... The reason as I understand it, is that the T5 is the largest VAN you can purchase and fit into any normal (EU) car parking space, height and width. This was a tip given to me by the bloke who sold it to me so may be BS but sounds about right SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukebanks1 Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 I used to use a bakrak. Be very careful using a cover over the paramotor in transit. I did, and once on the motorway looked in my rearview mirror to see the motor tilted backwards at an alarming angle. The whole thing had bent backwards with the increased resistance of the cover forming an air brake. Lots of force involved - remarkably the paramotor frame was undamaged. Can't say the same for the bakrak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trickyh Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Pics as promised All bits from Homebase / Wickes. The white plastic blocks are those kitchen cupbords things, Bolts for the crossbars are inserted by drilling through the Easybase and the plywood to make a strong sandwich. Wingnuts hold the bars on with a strap around the upright for extra peace of mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outkast Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Pics as promisedAll bits from Homebase / Wickes. The white plastic blocks are those kitchen cupbords things, Bolts for the crossbars are inserted by drilling through the Easybase and the plywood to make a strong sandwich. Wingnuts hold the bars on with a strap around the upright for extra peace of mind Kobra PPG, proper choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 Pics as promisedAll bits from Homebase / Wickes. The white plastic blocks are those kitchen cupbords things, Bolts for the crossbars are inserted by drilling through the Easybase and the plywood to make a strong sandwich. Wingnuts hold the bars on with a strap around the upright for extra peace of mind Very impressive! (I think mine is going to look a bit like this) Like the plastic blocks- great idea... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted July 25, 2012 Author Share Posted July 25, 2012 Pics as promisedAll bits from Homebase / Wickes. The white plastic blocks are those kitchen cupbords things, Bolts for the crossbars are inserted by drilling through the Easybase and the plywood to make a strong sandwich. Wingnuts hold the bars on with a strap around the upright for extra peace of mind Trickyh-- would it be possible to post a picture of the upper part of your 'transport arrangment', ie. where the prop meets the 'A' frame on the Thule base? I'm thinking of something similar to you- with a piece of ply mounted to the top of the 'A' frame, then some cushioning material betweent this piece and the prop hub. I'll bolt down to the base as you have, then strap the unit against the 'A' frame for added security. Got the Thule Easy base installed and fitted onto the towbar today- pretty impressive so far... I may also make a mount for a Gerry can on the back as i dont like the smell of petrol in the car. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trickyh Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Hi Gordon Sorry it is not clear in the photos, but my harness on the Kobra folds up flat and the arms straight down (mid/lower hang point) It is the harness side that butts up against the A frame and acts as a cushion. It prob doesnt need the strap, but my thinking is it helps with any forces pushing against the frame. I remove the cage and prop for safety and wrap the motor in a tarp if it looking like it might rain en route.. Good idea for the fuel can... Army surplus should have jerry can holders they use on land rovers etc.. If you offset the motor by a couple of slats there should be loads of room. Dont forget to cut an access hole in the ply to get the whole assembly on and off like I did! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richwill15 Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Storing fuel in Jerry cans seems to be in a grey area despite there being some strict legislation (which may or may not apply to you). Not sure what (if any) regulations exist for carrying external of vehicle. http://www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/17548007 Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Storing fuel in Jerry cans seems to be in a grey area despite there being some strict legislation (which may or may not apply to you). Not sure what (if any) regulations exist for carrying external of vehicle. http://www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/17548007 Hope this helps Good points- personally I use 10 litre diesel plastic containers- but going to change to 5 litre metal containers- even before I read this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyfreefly Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Quote .... Good points- personally I use 10 litre diesel plastic containers- but going to change to 5 litre metal containers- even before I read this. Nooooo dont do it ! ! ..use the plastic ones.. I had a fare few of those metal jerry cans for the microlight years ago when I used to stop at the petrol station I used to fill up 70 + litres at one go....every single one of them eventually got bits of flakey stuff coming out of them when fueling up ....and I wasnt the only one to have this problem we all use plastic 20 litre ones now ....never had a problem since.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Yeah- Gary, I remember I noticed the same problem with a 20L metal container before too... the little guaze filter on the jerry can neck actually got blocked, so stopped using the metal cans. Maybe plastic 5L is the way i should go then, if I need to stay legal. I always use a 'Mr.Funnel' filter/water separator while filling the motor anyway, but there are no excuses for flecks of paint or 'whatever' in the fuel. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 Hi GordonDont forget to cut an access hole in the ply to get the whole assembly on and off like I did! Rich Don't worry- noticed this on yours, and realised what it was for. I cut a generous hole out for accessing the fixing bolt. Do you think there is any need to coat the ply with paint/varnish/stain, etc... I've used exterior plywood, but i'd be worried about it de-laminating over time, it it got wet or exposed to road dirt..... If so, what would be recommended??? I'll post some photos later- but construction is at an advanced stage now!! GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notch Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 Fuel will last longer in a metal can. Try putting a sticker on a plastic container full of fuel and see how long it lasts. The highly volatile components of the fuel leak out of plastic over time, leaving the low octane components behind... -N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 Finally got my carrier system ready- leaving off the gerry cans for now, but may add these later if every thing goes to plan. The complete series of photos (12) with accompanying notes can be found on Flickr at- http://www.flickr.com/photos/20961594@N04/sets/72157630887803562/with/7706024076/ I'd appreciate any comments or feedback you may have. The system can be mounted/demounted very rapidly- i'll do my first 'road test' tomorrow, but everything seems pretty sturdy and secure. First picture shows the base system- without paramotor- This picture shows the paramotor in position- This picture shows the base and the clamping system- This picture shows the postion of the prop hub, and the back plate for added support/security. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Best I have seen yet! SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poz Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Excellent job Gordon. Real attention to detail. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bingreed Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Well done Gordon, that's hugely impressive and very neat. I've been undecided whether to go for the Thule, a Bak-Rak or even tow a box trailer - you've made the decision very easy! One thing I don't understand though - how does the Easybase clamp so securely onto a standard towbar? Having used trailers all my life I've become used to the free range of movement, so how does it clamp and lock onto a simple 50mm ball? I have no doubt it does, and my concerns won't stop me buying one, just want to understand how!! Thank you for posting the photos on flickr, I shall share mine too once it's complete. Cheers, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 I had my doubts too initially, but Thule rate this system (949) to 60kgs. You need to get the bolt on the clamp system to the right torque- Using the spanner tool provided you need to just put 35kg or 90nM torque on the clamp. The clamp locks onto the ball, and there is enough surface area to support the whole system. Bear in mind that the system is rated to 60kgs- and if it's overloaded it may slip. The ball should also be clean from dirt or grease before installing. The Thule 949 system is rated to 60kgs and has a 7 pin electrical plug- there is a similar system only rated to 45kgs I had a long hard look at the two systems, and weighed up the pros and cons. In my opinion the Thule represented the safest, easiest and most cost effective route. Main points for the Thule 949 system are- Integrated lightboard and number plate holder as standard- you will need this , as the paramotor will obstruct the vehicle mounted systems- and the police will stop you if they catch you. Vertical member as standard- can be used to secure the paramotor. -This can be detached easily, or left off if necessary. It really locks teh paramotor to the rak if secured properly. No drilling required- the slats on the base will accept M6 bolts to mount your carrier plywood base. Compatible with other off the shelf 'Thule' systems, such as boxes, bike carriers, etc... At only £135 it's a bargain too!!!!! Ps- I did one additional mod to my carrier- on the vertical frame I added two brackets to lock the prop and stop it from rotating during transit- i must post a picture later. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 Here's a link for the company that supplied my carrier- Varerum http://uk.varerum.dk/thule-easybase-sys ... fAodGXoAfQ Price only £132.34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bingreed Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Nice one - EasyBase ordered Thanks Gordon, saved me a lot of shopping around. Looking forward to a weekend of shopping, jigsawing, faffing, swearing, redesigning, sweating, drilling, screwing, painting, testing and finally (hopefully) celebrating! Either that, or I'll be picking-up pieces of pulvarised prop off the A14.............. Next, can anyone recommend a sensible watherproof cover? I too plan to remove the cage, but don't want the elements and road grime attacking my unprotected motor. Does anyone know or can anyone recommend a company that already makes such a thing, or is it going to be a taup & bungee job??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 Best of luck with that- I must say i enjoyed the challenge of getting it all together and building it!!! As for the cover, I bought a large sheet of ripstop nylon which i hope to get sewn up into a 'box' shape which will snugly fit round the motor.... Would be easier if you remove the prop- but really reluctant to do this. Another alternative is to remove the gearbox and prop assembly- this is easier on teh prop and generally easier- as there are only 3 bolts on the miniplane gearbox. Still not so keen on doing this- as the gearbox is prone to spilling oil if you store it the wrong way round.... Perhaps another way would be to make a 3mm plywood box cover that attaches to the base.... I may look at this further- but generally I tend to avoid dirty/grimy weather and fly only in better weather now.... I get no enjoyment anymore battling against 25mph headwinds, dodging rain showers, etc.... far nicer flying in nicer conditions..... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bingreed Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 I get no enjoyment anymore battling against 25mph headwinds, dodging rain showers, etc.... far nicer flying in nicer conditions..... I'll drink to that! I'm planning a weeks holiday in Northumberland later this year - the place we're staying is very close to wide expanses of deserted beach, and if the weather is right....... I can't stand the thought of being in the right place at the right time, and having gone through all this training & practice to not have any kit with me! Of course, popping over to the flying field or for a lesson at Rayne is a different matter, but a six & a half hour journey up the A1 demands a little preparation & protection... I guess this time around I'll just wrap it up in sheets and a tarp and bungees, but it would be nice to buy/make something a little more bespoke going forwards. If I find a sensible and affordable solution I'll post it on here. Thanks for your input Gordon, 'tis much appreciated. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Watch out for the additional windage caused by a tarpaulin. I think that I read somewhere of a back-rack that was pushed out of place because of the covering. Good luck, Christian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bingreed Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Wise words, thank you Christian. I think removal of the full cage for all journeys is the priority. Ahead of this weekends building project, I've just been pricing up marine ply... to coin a popular phrase at the moment: OMG!!! Why is ply so expensive? A single sheet (twice as much as I need btw...) is £60+VAT at our local builders merchant... I can see a rethink coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 Ply is really the only wood worth using- you could construct out of Aluminium also, but this is also expensive, and if you don't have the tools to work with it then jsut as awkward. I think your builders yard is a bit on the pricy side- check a few other places, even www.gumtree.com or Ebay.. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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