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Raket 120 Aero for home build paramotor


dmpatanis
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I am also building a Radna 120 powered paramotor. Bought the engine unused from here along with a 130cm helix carbon prop, exhaust system, fuel tank and a copied mild steel 1400mm frame. Modified it to allow it to break into 3 parts. Should be up and running in a few weeks. Luckily my mate owns an air conditioning firm and so I get access to a workshop with stainles steel, mild steel, aluminium, Guillotine machines, sheet folders, Mig and Tig welders ets I will let you know how it goes.

PM me your email and i will get some pics to you.

Tim

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Well guys, here is the Welsh radna paramotor project so far all dry assembled !! I have added a few extra bits of tube to allow the frame to split into 4 pieces and keep the netting on instead of the standard Rad top and bottom. I turned some pegs for joining the frames sections from nylon rod and it workd perfectly.

I also need to manuafcture the spreader bars and mount some small brackets on to the plates I welded on the center section sides. I manufactred an aluminium back plate as the frames curves inwards at the rear which would be a bit painful on the back. I simply attached in with P clips as its just a support and not structural. I also got hold of a supair high hangpoint harness from Spigot for a good price and it went on really well !

I used to be an aircraft technician and then a gas engineer so decided to knock up a throttle unit from a 6 inch length of 22mm pipe with an elbow and a 15mm reducer on the end. Trigger assembly fitted perfect followed by a mountian bike grip and a nice velcro strap that I use to secure Lipo batteries on my RC helicopters and jets.

A few bits left to do like the spreader bars, new aluminium exhaust bracket, turn up a 1 inch aluminium prop driver/spacer to move the 130mm helix carbon prop out an inch to clear the clutch assembly and then a test hang to get all the angles right and comfortable. Might even ground run it just to test the fuel system and kill system prior to strip down, powder coat and apply the netting.

We are getting there !!!

Cheers Tim

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Cheers for that Alan, its coming along pretty well. Gonna make the spreader bars tomorrow out of 20mm aluminium tube. Will weld two 6 x 1 inch plates onto the side plates 20mm apart to spread the load off the spreader bars. They will be bolted vertically at the rear to allow them to pivot outwards for easy ingress etc.

I will load more pics once I get the bars and exhaust on this week hopefully !

Tim

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Right then guy's, the latest update from the Welsh Radne 120 project. Managed to knock up a nice set of exhaust brackets and got it on all ok. Will wire lock the springs followed by a smear of silicon to stop then zinging ! Also finished off the mounting brackets for my 2omm wide 3mm walled aluminium spreader bars. Will drill and tap the bars towards the top to bolt the harness ti it with countersunk screws through the metal eyelets on the harness webbing.

I also started to clean up the frames of surface corrosion with some nice fine micromesh. Will finish the rest of the frame and strip for paint and netting very soon. Just need to turn up some 3 inch aluminium in to a 1 inch deep prop spacer and a prop washer as it will save me spending £50 on one from Radne!

Contructive criticism welcomed just in case I have missed any fundamentals !!

Cheers Tim

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I can see you have springs on the exhaust joints but do you have rubber mounts for the complete system :?:

The brackets look a little 'flexible' maybe. Don't forget there is a considerable weight in the exhaust system when vibration is concerned.

See if you can deflect the exhaust with a push on the brackets. Vibration will do the same but you won't see it due to the higher frequency.

The brackets look nice but are they rigid enough :?:

Cheers,

Alan

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Alan, the whole engine assy is mounted on anti vibration mounts with the exhaust assy bolted together. The springs are only there to allow expansion of the exhaust as the two exhaust sections are bolted together on individual mounting brackets and are bolted together. The aluminium used is 4 m thick duralumin and is bolted to the engine on both the front and rear. Its solid, trust me ! The exhaust is therefore supported at three well spaced triangular points and so is very well supported. Just getting the prop driver turned prior to first run.

Tim

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Hi Tim,

Its looking good :D

Ref the comfort bars. The originals had the end 1" flattened and rounded off, to slip into the pockets stitched onto the harness. It would make it easier to fit and prevent any unnecessary stress on the stitching.

The zorst looks a bit too solid, you don't want that... It needs to be able to vibrate independently from the engine, or stress cracks will soon show up. :(

Colin B

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Hi Colin, I noticed on the harness that there is a nice 'tube' assy approx 2 inches long stitched into the webbing. This slips nicely over the spreader bar and allowes the eyelet to sit nice and flat against the bar. I am going to drill and tap the bar an fit a nice dome head bolt to secure the webbing in place.

What I dont understand is the exhaust soft mounting. If you have the exhaust mounted on its own set os fotmounts then the exhaust-header joint can move?? I guess in an ideal fitment the connection between the exhaust and the engine would be a flexible connection of silicon tube possibly?? This is what we use on the large rc petrol planes and these have a 160cc twin petrol. We have the exhaust cannister fixed to the airfram with a flexible silicon connectio to the engine which is mounted on soft mounts?

I do have some softmounts so I might try them. I was just worried about the knuckle joint between the exhaust and engine fretting?? I will look into guys, cheers.

It does seem that on the G6 paramotor the exhaust is bolted to the engine and then the whole assembly is soft mounted to allow the engine AND exhaust to move together ?? Just a thought.

Cheers Tim

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Fair play whitcombe that looks excellent! Really professionally designed and build which looks as good as the current crop of paramotors from the leading manufacturers.

It will be really interesting to see how you get on flying it.

A mate of mine built his own version of the Doodlebug powered unit for hang gliding using the Radne Raket engine and it flew perfectly and is still flying as good now.

Good luck with it I'm sure it will be good!

Justin

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Cheers for the support Justin, Its all starting to fall into place now. Have mounted the harness to the spreader bars by drilling and tapping an M6 hole in each end and fitting a nice bolt and washer through the eyelets. Colin mentioned about cutting off and rotating the exhaust to have it going down on the left but the geometry of the exhaust bend will be very difficult without manufacturing a new neck on the pipe AAARRHH.

Will ground run a few tanks first just to see if there are any issue's before hacking the exhaust. Cant wait to spray it and get some netting on !!!

Cheers Tim :tripup:

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Guys, I have taken a few idea's onboard and after a chat with spigot I had a spark of insparation !! The exhaust is a bit of a pain with it hanging high up but also the distance between the engine manifold connection and the brackets is pretty close. This means the long exhaust can put a fair amount of leverage on the brackets.

Spigot said to me 'you got the tools and the know how, why not remount it somewhere else?'

Well, here it is so far. I have cut off the neck at the 3/4 position and rotated it 180 degrees to give me a 90 degree bend. This has now allowed me to mount the exhaust down the left hand side to allow a much more compact assy. Also when I manufacture the new brackets the distance between the mounting points and the exhaust manifold with be a lot further apart and so stronger !

Will get it welded up this weekend and hopefully mounted before ground runds. Will post new pics when ready.

Cheers Tim

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Hi Guys, have welded the exhaust manifold and fitted the exhaust! Might change the 2 mounting brackets to steel thoug as the aluminium used in pretty soft. Will do for ground runs anyway. Its now a much more compact and neater setup with a much larger gap, and thus more support, between the exhaust/engine connection and mounting points. I have also turned up a nice aluminium prop spacer and cap that just needs 6 accurate holes pillar drilled prior to fitting.

Its definately getting there now !!!

Tim

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Hi,

Really interested in your build. I too have a Raket powered paramotor (RAD MXL) but want to upgrade.

I like the look of your air filter and exhaust. Do you have any details of what type of air filter it is?

The exhaust looks like it is a hand made jobbie. Very nice! I am trying to modify the standard exhasut on the MXL and fit a fuel guage/02 sensor in the future.

Hope you get flying soon although the weather isnt playing ball.

Glenn

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Cheers for the comments guys, have recently bolted on the prop hub and prop washer I made along with the helix prop. Its starting to look sexy :D Will try to getting it running this week as I want to run some fuel through it on idle just for initial runs.

Jock, the frame was already welded up as a single piece frame over a wood jig. I just added a few extra inserts to allow the cage to be broken down into 4 sections with each section having its own netting. I used my gas fitters/plumbers 15-22mm pipe bender as that waht I did for a few years after leaving the M.O.D as an aircraft tech. By the way, you bought the PAP 1300 arms from myself off ebay :D . They are wrapped up and ready to post Tuesday afternoon !

Will try to get some more pics on this week of my progress

Cheers Tim.

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