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whitcombe

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  1. Guys, I would say its the same guy who managed to con me of £1300 This scum has given an address that you will find is in the middle of bloody no where !! I hope the guy has a very slow and extremely painful death The metropolitan police CID where dealing with it but have not heard from them in months, so, a cash reward DEAD or ALIVE would be nice as this guy totally messed up my plans with paramotoring. Tim
  2. Cheers for that Mark, I have been busy trying to finish the paramotor, flying the big models and selling some jets. All go i guess ?? Anyway, its now FINISHED . Put the final stainless exhaust bracket and anti-vibe mount before wire locking all critical bolts and fitting safety straps on the engine mounts and one exhaust anti-vibe mount. The dry break connection has also been fitted to allow tank removal for filling with out getting petrol all over my hands Just need to run it up to full throttle for a thorough shakedown and a tweak of the needles. Her are a few pics of the finished welsh radne...go go taff power! Cheers Tim
  3. Glenn, I purchased the basic frame already produced as a one piece unit in bare metal. It was a copy of a rad frame built over a wooden jig. Price, well lets just say it was a good price I put some small cross members between the two rear rings and then proceeded to cut it into more transportable sections. I also fitted a few bars to allow each section to have its own netting. Finally I manufactured and welded on the spreader bar mounting brackets, upper engine mount bracket, transport wheel brackets and a small plate to mount a guide for the pull start so that its rest up by my left shoulder for access if required. Thankyou very much for your comments on it as well So far i have enjoyed every minute of it. Nice to get back on the tools and start wirelocking again. I forgot to say, I have also fitted safety webbing across all the anti vibe mounts with some nice strong, forces green, lifting and sling webbing that i liberated years ago from the MOD. Works a treat. I will fit the last exhaust mount stainless steel bracket this week with another anti vibration mount and then take a few pics for you all of the final paramotor ready to go:mrgreen: Cheers Tim
  4. Well, I have decided to fly the welsh radne as the wife has said "go for it or you will regret letting it go". Yippee . I have just made a stainless steel mounting bracket complete with an anti-vibration mount for the exhaust as well. I got the steel off an old mate who i used to work with when we were technicians on Hawk jets with the MOD. Bloody hell its strong !!! Aircraft grade, strong, stainless, free and perfect for the job. Just need to do a final run to get the top and bottom end needles spot on and away we go Cheers Tim
  5. Guys, I have took a leap of faith and just ordered one. Dont buy them from demon tweeks though as they are £14.99 and they want £7.50 postage Just copy and paste the item description into ebay and I got one for £13.99 plus £1.25 postage They look like they will do the job as long as they dont let in any air as they will be working under a slight negative pressure from a walbro pumped carb. Saying that I used to use festo pushfittings on my model jets for fuel and air systems and never had any issus under negative pressure ? Will let you know Tim, the welsh radne mad professor....IT'S ALIVE !!!!
  6. Guys, My wife has recently become pregnant and so I was just wonderig what would be a sensible price to ask for my paramotor completed if I really had to let it go for funds?? I have finshed spraying it, fitted the netting and reassembled it. I have also run it up ad set the top and bottom needles. Remember the engine, fram, prop and tank are all brand new and the sup-air harness is second hand. Also has a PAP paramotor reserve chuteand container. The crabs are new as well. Hopefully I will be able to keep it but I was just wondering what you guys thought was a sensible and reasonable sale price. Here are a few pics of it so far, I just have to bolt the exhaust back on and refit the primer pump and fuel piping. Cheers Tim
  7. Guy's, where is the best place to get some frame netting from. I found some cheap pond netting on fleabay bit the holes are only 20mm across. I am after some simple, cheap string type netting that will do the job on my radne project? Help please ??? Cheers Tim
  8. Hi Glenn, the primer bulb is a draper syphon bulb pump from ebay. Approx £7-8 I think. The filter is a UNI filter and came with the engine. I recently ran it up prior to strip down to polish up all the frame. Unfortunately the only part I didn't assemble, the reduction drive, came loose and the prop hub was seen moving. Nothing damaged and so I threadlocked all the 8mm allen bolts and drilled a 1.5mm hole through the heads and wirelocked. We are definatley nearly there! Just want to spray the tuned exhaust with satin black heat proof paint and then a final assembly with netting. Will post more pics when finished. Cheers Tim
  9. Cheers Colin, have just adjusted the crabs back about 1 inch. The tank is only just behind the pivot point of the crabs so luckily would have only made a small difference. But, a difference at that so cheers for the pointer. Looking forward to it all now. The good weather has giving me a little boost of inspiration Tim
  10. Latest pics guys !! Decided to hang test it today to check 'the angle of the dangle'. I have lifted my feet of the floor and I think it looks ok and the thrust line and angle look ok ! Let me know guys if you think if its ok or not and any improvements I could make if any ?? Cheers Tim
  11. Here is the latest on the welsh radne project. Bolted on my home turned prop spacer and prop washer along ith the nice new 130cm helix prop. Ground runs here we come
  12. Cheers for the comments guys, have recently bolted on the prop hub and prop washer I made along with the helix prop. Its starting to look sexy Will try to getting it running this week as I want to run some fuel through it on idle just for initial runs. Jock, the frame was already welded up as a single piece frame over a wood jig. I just added a few extra inserts to allow the cage to be broken down into 4 sections with each section having its own netting. I used my gas fitters/plumbers 15-22mm pipe bender as that waht I did for a few years after leaving the M.O.D as an aircraft tech. By the way, you bought the PAP 1300 arms from myself off ebay . They are wrapped up and ready to post Tuesday afternoon ! Will try to get some more pics on this week of my progress Cheers Tim.
  13. Hi Guys, have welded the exhaust manifold and fitted the exhaust! Might change the 2 mounting brackets to steel thoug as the aluminium used in pretty soft. Will do for ground runs anyway. Its now a much more compact and neater setup with a much larger gap, and thus more support, between the exhaust/engine connection and mounting points. I have also turned up a nice aluminium prop spacer and cap that just needs 6 accurate holes pillar drilled prior to fitting. Its definately getting there now !!! Tim
  14. Guys, I have taken a few idea's onboard and after a chat with spigot I had a spark of insparation !! The exhaust is a bit of a pain with it hanging high up but also the distance between the engine manifold connection and the brackets is pretty close. This means the long exhaust can put a fair amount of leverage on the brackets. Spigot said to me 'you got the tools and the know how, why not remount it somewhere else?' Well, here it is so far. I have cut off the neck at the 3/4 position and rotated it 180 degrees to give me a 90 degree bend. This has now allowed me to mount the exhaust down the left hand side to allow a much more compact assy. Also when I manufacture the new brackets the distance between the mounting points and the exhaust manifold with be a lot further apart and so stronger ! Will get it welded up this weekend and hopefully mounted before ground runds. Will post new pics when ready. Cheers Tim
  15. Cheers for the support Justin, Its all starting to fall into place now. Have mounted the harness to the spreader bars by drilling and tapping an M6 hole in each end and fitting a nice bolt and washer through the eyelets. Colin mentioned about cutting off and rotating the exhaust to have it going down on the left but the geometry of the exhaust bend will be very difficult without manufacturing a new neck on the pipe AAARRHH. Will ground run a few tanks first just to see if there are any issue's before hacking the exhaust. Cant wait to spray it and get some netting on !!! Cheers Tim
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