whitcombe Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Latest pics guys !! Decided to hang test it today to check 'the angle of the dangle'. I have lifted my feet of the floor and I think it looks ok and the thrust line and angle look ok ! Let me know guys if you think if its ok or not and any improvements I could make if any ?? Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spigot Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Hi Tim, Looks ace! But if your planning to use any fuel on its maiden flight, you might want to move the crabs back an inch or so. Colin B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitcombe Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Cheers Colin, have just adjusted the crabs back about 1 inch. The tank is only just behind the pivot point of the crabs so luckily would have only made a small difference. But, a difference at that so cheers for the pointer. Looking forward to it all now. The good weather has giving me a little boost of inspiration Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanman Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 You are too far leaned back. As well as the fuel tank adding weight slightly behind the hang point you also have a thrustline that is fairly well below the wing attachment causing more lean back under power. This lean back will also be further added too when in the climb because the power rotating you forward under the wing. I would guess your lean back angle is about 20 degrees there. A manual for a similar machine reckons you should be looking for a lean back of around 5 degrees. It quotes horizontal distances from the carabiner to the frame for different pilot weights as a basic guide before doing a hang test. These are pilot weight 60kg - 26cm, 75kg - 28cm, 90kg - 30cm. These are obviously not figures for your machine but I think you'll see from these figures that your set up is not right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glennP Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 I m in the process of upgrading my Radne powered paramotor and was wondering where you got your fuel primer bulb and air filter from? Would be nice to get the details so I could buy both. Cheers, Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantheman Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Hey Glenn try ebay for stuff like primer bulbs, they are under a fiver, that's where my last one came from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitcombe Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Hi Glenn, the primer bulb is a draper syphon bulb pump from ebay. Approx £7-8 I think. The filter is a UNI filter and came with the engine. I recently ran it up prior to strip down to polish up all the frame. Unfortunately the only part I didn't assemble, the reduction drive, came loose and the prop hub was seen moving. Nothing damaged and so I threadlocked all the 8mm allen bolts and drilled a 1.5mm hole through the heads and wirelocked. We are definatley nearly there! Just want to spray the tuned exhaust with satin black heat proof paint and then a final assembly with netting. Will post more pics when finished. Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glennP Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Cheers for the info. I found primers at my local marine supplies shop but they were too big and for 12mm I'd fuel line so you ve helped me out. I ve got a cone air filter but wanted to see how it performs against a foam filter. Had noticed Rad had put the foam one on the Arrow Classic and thought they must have a good reason for it. In the search of a bit more power/thrust I m looking to see if any local Kart tuners can get a bit more power out of the Radne engine and thrust wise if there is a 3 blade wooden/carbon prop replacement for the flexing power wasting 3 blade plastic prop. Cheers, Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jock Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Radne sweden now do a hop up kit reworked ports etc they claim 10% more power,the raket is a good durable engine just needs a 130 prop to get the best out off it.unless your a light weight.70-75 kg ,,80 plus kg you need the 130 prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitcombe Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Guys, My wife has recently become pregnant and so I was just wonderig what would be a sensible price to ask for my paramotor completed if I really had to let it go for funds?? I have finshed spraying it, fitted the netting and reassembled it. I have also run it up ad set the top and bottom needles. Remember the engine, fram, prop and tank are all brand new and the sup-air harness is second hand. Also has a PAP paramotor reserve chuteand container. The crabs are new as well. Hopefully I will be able to keep it but I was just wondering what you guys thought was a sensible and reasonable sale price. Here are a few pics of it so far, I just have to bolt the exhaust back on and refit the primer pump and fuel piping. Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jock Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 GET A VIDEO OF IT FLYING THAT WOULD GET PEOPLE INTERESTED MORE SO THAN ONE THATS BEEN BUILT AND NOT FLOWN.SECOND HAND RAD JAVLIEN-ARROW WOULD BE A SOURCE TO LOOK AT FOR PRICE.THEY SELL FOR AROUND £1200-1800. PARAMOTORS SEEM TO SELL OK ON EBAY JUST PUT A RESERVE ON IT THAT YOU WONT SELL FOR LESS.PLUS STICK IT ON THE FORUM.ITS A SHAME YOU HAVE TO MAYBE SELL IT. BUT YOU HAVE DONE A VERY GOOD JOB BUILDING IT..HAVE SOME FUN ON IT FIRST.CONGRATS ON THE NIPPER ON THE WAY............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazgrace Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 I hope you dont have to sell it would be a real shame . All the best though . I am looking at getting the radne raket but just curious of the engine mountings / fixing it to my frame . How many engine mountings is there on the raket . With out having it and never seeing one im trying to picture how im fixing it to my frame before i do .Sorry if i sound dumb . Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jock Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 It depends on what frame you use,you can use 4 mounts.or 3 your frame will be 3 mounting rubbers.2 that will go on the bottom of the engine and one near the top.ie-if you buy a new engine it will come with the bottom mounting plate.you just have to fit the 2 rubber bobbins, get them from radparamotors,i fitted the other one in the pull start cover fitting a metal plate both sides worked well.i see you havnt got some connectors on your other post.why didnt they come with the kit the bolts that is,get the right bolts not ones from a hardware shop esp the arm bolts they need to be the right spec.the karabiner just get the steel ones as fitted to any paramotor or paraglider.i would ask the dealer you bought the frame from as to why no bolts they should have come with the kit.. ps when the engine mounting plate is on your engine you then have to drill the mounting plate that came with your frame to fit the rubber bobbins to then use a back up strap each side of the bobbins as a back incase the bobbins ever break.. it would be better to get someone you know who flys to help you put it 2 gether..or get someone to check it after you build it........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazgrace Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Hi jock . if you seen the other post then you know what frame the raket will be for . I know some one close who will give me a hand and check it all . As to why them d link shackles are not with it i dont know ,Thats why i was trying to find where to get them from that can take the weight not them cheapo ones lol or i would be in the @@@@ . And im trying to figure it all out in my head how its all going to piece together before i get it all. Im giving my self a right headach THANKS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jock Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 THE RAKET WILL FIT YOUR FRAME WITH EASE.THE SHACKLES FIND OUT WHAT THE HOLE SIZE IS IN THE ARMS IE=6MM-7-8MM THEN ANY PPG DEALER WILL HAVE THEM IF YOU BOUGHT IT FROM THE EBAY DEALER HE WILL HAVE THEM 2.WE ALL SCRACTH ARE HEADS WHEN WE BUILD SOMTHING.SLEEP ON A PROBLEM IS MY WAY OF GETTING AROUND A PROBLEM DONT TRY TO FIGUREOUT 2 MUCH AT ONCE WORK ON ONE PROBLEM AT A TIME AND YOU WILL GET THERE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
learner_driver Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Guys, My wife has recently become pregnant and so I was just wonderig what would be a sensible price to ask for my paramotor completed if I really had to let it go for funds?? I have finshed spraying it, fitted the netting and reassembled it. I have also run it up ad set the top and bottom needles. Remember the engine, fram, prop and tank are all brand new and the sup-air harness is second hand. Also has a PAP paramotor reserve chuteand container. The crabs are new as well. Hopefully I will be able to keep it but I was just wondering what you guys thought was a sensible and reasonable sale price. Here are a few pics of it so far, I just have to bolt the exhaust back on and refit the primer pump and fuel piping. Cheers Tim Tim don't sell it. When my wife was pregnant I went from Paragliding to motoring so that when it was my time, I could make my time count. For your passions in life make time, or you will always regret it. you wont start paramotoring again in 3 years there will always be "other pressure/demands". my advice is fight all the way. to get the baby tandem spreader bars! congratulations Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitcombe Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Well, I have decided to fly the welsh radne as the wife has said "go for it or you will regret letting it go". Yippee . I have just made a stainless steel mounting bracket complete with an anti-vibration mount for the exhaust as well. I got the steel off an old mate who i used to work with when we were technicians on Hawk jets with the MOD. Bloody hell its strong !!! Aircraft grade, strong, stainless, free and perfect for the job. Just need to do a final run to get the top and bottom end needles spot on and away we go Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jock Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 NICE ONE THATS THE SORT OF WIFE TO HAVE..GET A VIDEO WHEN YOU FLY IT///// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glennP Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 It sure is a sweet lookin' paramotor. Would be a shame to sell it without a flight on it first. How much did it cost for the frame to be built? I am trying to source a RAD Arrow frame but your design looks just as good. Was it easy to build? It certainly looks pretty well thought out especially with the reduction drive and Helix prop. I want to fit a 130/120cm prop to my MXL but obviously the frame is too small hence the search for a RAD Arrow frame. Need the extra thrust of a 130 prop now I'm a fatboy. I've enjoyed watching the build just wish I had the facilities and the know how to build a frame and exhaust like yours. Well done you must be proud of your acheivement. Just hope it flies as good as it looks. All the best, G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanman Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 If you want to run a 130 prop then I think you'll need a Javelin frame rather than an Arrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitcombe Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 Glenn, I purchased the basic frame already produced as a one piece unit in bare metal. It was a copy of a rad frame built over a wooden jig. Price, well lets just say it was a good price I put some small cross members between the two rear rings and then proceeded to cut it into more transportable sections. I also fitted a few bars to allow each section to have its own netting. Finally I manufactured and welded on the spreader bar mounting brackets, upper engine mount bracket, transport wheel brackets and a small plate to mount a guide for the pull start so that its rest up by my left shoulder for access if required. Thankyou very much for your comments on it as well So far i have enjoyed every minute of it. Nice to get back on the tools and start wirelocking again. I forgot to say, I have also fitted safety webbing across all the anti vibe mounts with some nice strong, forces green, lifting and sling webbing that i liberated years ago from the MOD. Works a treat. I will fit the last exhaust mount stainless steel bracket this week with another anti vibration mount and then take a few pics for you all of the final paramotor ready to go:mrgreen: Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgrant Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Hi All, I built the frame, it wasn't difficult, just lots of head scratching! A mate made a ring roller with which we formed the main rings, it took a couple of goes to get the right diameter, and it is a 2 man job to keep them straight! The jig is MDF, the engine was mounted on the jig so that the prop was centred then the frame built to the engine mounts. I suppose it would have been nice to finish it but with everything else I have to do it probably wouldn't be any further along now than when I sold it to Tim. Nice to see you're doing a good job Tim! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitcombe Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Cheers for that Mark, I have been busy trying to finish the paramotor, flying the big models and selling some jets. All go i guess ?? Anyway, its now FINISHED . Put the final stainless exhaust bracket and anti-vibe mount before wire locking all critical bolts and fitting safety straps on the engine mounts and one exhaust anti-vibe mount. The dry break connection has also been fitted to allow tank removal for filling with out getting petrol all over my hands Just need to run it up to full throttle for a thorough shakedown and a tweak of the needles. Her are a few pics of the finished welsh radne...go go taff power! Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanman Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Was the tank from Zoom Karts? How big is it and how much? I need one, in case you didn't guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgrant Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 I've got another tank (new) with the clamp etc if you're interested. They hold 9 litres if I recall corectly. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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