Phil_P

I use the Garmin UK Topo. maps on my machine. Shows contours which can be handy. Phil

Airways at Darley Dale perhaps? Some seem to have found them a bit keen to relieve you of your cash, but I don't recall hearing any bad stories about the quality of training.

I think it WOULD work Justin, the problem I encountered when I tried such a system was that the reserve seriously limited my ability to tip my head back to check the wing overhead, either in flight or pre t/o You would only have to make sure it was secure enough to allow you to pull the red handle without coming off. When I tried, a simple loop of webbing round the two cage uprights, secured with clips to the reserve container was the way I went. A friend with a PAP did say that even the manufacturer recognises that some thrust is inevitably lost by sticking a fairly large blockage in close proximity to the prop. I am also slightly concerned that in high 'G' emergencies (high speed spiral for instance), the simple act of lifting your hands over your head to release the reserve, could prove problematic. Being able to see your reserve handle is, IMHO, a useful feature also. Phil

Knock up some velcro flaps and sew them on your harness, or just route it where you want and secure with small zip-ties that will fail under load. Surprised, as my F3 harness had the velcro system in place for a front mount reserve. Phil

You may be right about the low values with my proposed set up. Currently on the bench dry, I am getting about 14pF. I may try immersion in fuel tomorrow. How about inserting an extra 'layer' between my present inner and outer conductors, perhaps something like some 8mm tube? It could then be configured so that inner and outer are common ground, and the intermediate tube connect as +ve That would presumably double up on capacitance, and also improve the gradient of the response, as every extra bit of fluid would create a larger incremental increase. Another little project on my mind is a small version of the radar reflectors you see on boats (sort of diamond shape made up of flat plate). To improve radar visibility passively. Suspect there may be a critical size however, based on radar wavelength. I think Waddington LARS would help confirm or otherwise, the functionality. Oh boy, too much time on hands. Hopefully trike welding is happening next weekend.

Brass tube, approx. 10mm diameter, with brass rod, approx. 1.5mm diameter running down centre. Isolated from each other with delrin spacers top and bottom. two small holes drilled in outer tube close to top and bottom spacer disks, enough to admit petrol, but small enough to damp fluctuations. If the capacitance of the above is too small, will shift to smaller tube. Bailey tank has a spare 'bung' in the top, the sensor should hook up to a BNC socket that goes through the bung, that'll give a suitable termination for the cable to the meter. Would prefer to use aluminium, but ease of soldering brass makes it attractive. Even riveted terminations onto aluminium tend to degrade over time with oxide accumulation. Have a double sided BNC socket to mount through bung, so sensor can be built onto a BNC plug for ease of changing. Is 'hot glue' HDPP? if it is, it'd make good sealant.

Fine in latest FireFox.

Well, I'm glad that everyone is skilled enough to avoid a perceived problem that has managed to generate a complete market sector. Myself, I seem to get into trouble no matter what I do, so I think I'll just carry on reducing risk (perceived or or otherwise) in areas when I can. I know that I've managed to get in amongst my lines, even (or perhaps especially) when ground handling. I also couldn't, with a clear conscience, advise someone to not bother mitigating a risk where possible. Phil

Hi Alan, never used one before, and the closest I have come to writing in 'C' was probably back when I did my 'O' level computer studies (remember those) about 33 years ago when we programmed in 'Mini'. Probably some of the first in the UK to do so. Back then we coded onto optical mark cards with pencil, and sent them away to be run. One pencil mark in the wrong place and the programme would hang. A week later, our run results were posted back to us. Writing in 'BASIC' was slightly easier as we used a Teletype to write to punch tape, and when we'd written it, we used an acoustic coupler on the phone to connect to the treasury computer in Newcastle on Tyne (I think) and we got the output back on the TTY. By the time I left school, ISTR we actually had a 'PET' on site, and the brother of my G/F who used a PDP9 was hard-core! Tell that to the kids of today.......... Oh, and I may well pick your brains! Phil Hi Phil, are you a fan of PICs as well, I've done a few projects with them. If you need any help give us a shout. Cheers, Alan

Are those not hooks for the laces on those Han-Wag's Simon? Personally, having experienced just how entangling glider lines can be (never mind your speed bar etc.), I don't think I could recommend a flyer to use anything with hooks rather than eyelets, regardless how much easier it makes them to put on (unless perhaps you don't mind a wrap of gaffer tape). Maybe when I'm at your level of expertise I won't have to worry about stuff like that, but in the meantime, I still do. Phil

Just to re-awaken the debate, I've just bought a capacitance meter off ebay that I'm going to try hooking to a home-made capacitive probe (with designed in anti-slosh factors). As the meter is PIC based, then hope to rework the code to read 0-100% with a reset button to hit when full. Would be configurable in the firmware for odd shaped tanks. The meter board can run off 9v, so no independent supply required, although usable if you have one. I know all about KISS, but hey, with non-flying time on my hands, you can only polish a prop so many times!

would recommend the use of shrink fit insulation to provide a measure of strain relief at vulnerable point such as this. Another option is a good blob of silicon RTV at the junction.

Also, don't disconnect a battery from a battery based system that uses in flight charging, whilst it is running. The excessive voltage and or spikes you may see can frazzle a CDI unit.

I fitted a ply base-board on my Thule rack, and onto this, screwed some wooden blocks which situate around the bottom edge of my frame. This stops any sliding motion, then a couple of ratchet straps over the top of a strong bit of chassis can pin it down. If you have a 4x4, or if the rack has an 'A' bar next to your tailgate/boot, then you can use straps (ratchet, or in my case, reclaimed static lap seat belt) to anchor the motor to either the 4x4's door mounted spare or other suitable spot, or onto the racks 'A' frame. If you have tie-downs in your car boot, you can fasten a ratchet strap to these, then route the straps out round the boot/tailgate lip, prior to closing, then nip up tight. Some 4x4's need the back door spare removing before using the rack, as it takes up too much space. On the Thule, with an 'A' frame, I fastened a piece of plastic drainpipe (50mm ish) horizontally across the 'A' frame, secured with a couple of exhaust pipe 'U' bolts. Where the motor contacts this, foam pipe insulation can be zip tied or taped into place as protection. Never underestimate how much the motor/rack combo can bounce about, and either secure such that movement can't occur, pad between moving items. or leave plenty of space so the items can't touch each other. Take care when driving up or down steep ramps, as your departure angle is very much reduced, and you can drag the rack on the ground. If your number plate is on the bottom edge, you'll lose it. If you want to use the rack on two cars, get self adhesive number plate backing plus numbers and stick them on the back of the other number plate. Swap vehicles, flip plate over. Tie your prop to stop it spinning, you'll end up being distracted every time it moves in the breeze. Don't forget protruding bits when you go under low hanging trees, car park entrances etc. Also, remember it's there when you back into a parking space to pick up the bottle of vino on the way home from a great days flying. School of hard knocks perhaps Phil

The fuel dye works well, but will stain the inside of your clear fuel lines blue, making it almost impossible to see if there is fuel in them. Made my Bailey fuel level gauge all but useless until I had rinsed the system several times with stock petrol. Caveat emptor. Phil

I've flown a proxima on my motor. It flew ok, but the pressure required on the brakes was like using a bull-worker. Phil

In aviation terms, a cross country flight implies a land away from home base. Distance covered is irrelevant. Believe it or not, the non stop round the world flight a few years back would actually be logged as a 'local' flight because the t/o and landing site were the same. Phil

Watch out that this doesn't bring the L/H tip of the prop perilously close to your cage, especially under full load. Phil

There's one on fleabay at the mo.

If I was going to fit a battery that wasn't in flight charged, it would be one of these- http://www.ebattonline.com/thefacts.html

Well the first thing to do is get over the misconception that carb icing is significantly more likely to happen in the winter. I think that you will find that this is not the case. Carb icing is NOT particularly temperature sensitive insofar as it happens at temperatures significantly above freezing, as it is the action of the fuel atomising that causes the temperature drop. What you need to be aware of is the relative humidity and dew points. Have a look at this chart to get an idea of the danger zones. http://ibis.experimentals.de/images/carbicingfromcaassl14.gif It is more likely to occur at lower throttle openings, and therefore is a significant risk during the descent phase of flight. If you find your engine to be particularly susceptible, then making your landings 'dead stick' may be of value. The ideal solution for carb engines is to duct warm air into the carb inlet, this will reduce humidity and increase temperatures so reducing the likelihood of icing. However, it is preferable to be able to switch off this warm air, so that your engine can make full power during critical phases of flight, specifically take off, when the chance of icing is slim. In GA, it is usual to apply carb heat at intervals during flight, and also on the downwind leg of an approach pattern. It must be remembered that if a switchable carb heat system is employed, then it must be used for a long enough period to be effective. In the presence of ice, initially selecting carb heat will result in a rougher running engine as the ice melts and is ingested into the engine. Revs will then be restored to pre ice levels. A simple flap valve in an intake pipe could be made to work well, with a very simple push pull control. Phil

Duct some warm air from round the cylinder head, or better yet, the exhaust, to your air intake. Make it an easy to remove mod so that in low icing conditions you can dispense with it to get max power. Or fit a flap valve so you can turn 'carb heat' on and off, a la GA aircraft. Ultimately, fit fuel injection

Could be a vacuum building in fuel tank at full chat, that eases as revs drop. Check all breathers. I had similar with a ball bearing type non return fuel line valve that would actually shut off fuel in the 'forward' direction if the draw in the system was sufficiently high.

Can I suggest VW Beetle, tail pipes as silencers? Small, slim, cheap and with absorption silencing built in.

As has been discussed previously on this forum, please remember that although the VX3 will receive AM airband frequencies with the MARS/CAP mods, it will still transmit on FM which is of no real use. It is fine if you just want the FM capabilities on other bands though. There is also a software hack that allows you to access MARS/CAP frequencies by hooking the VX3 to your PC and ticking the appropriate box.