stuartasutherland

470fpm on my new Zenith Thor 200 and Synth 34

I always kill my engine, saves any potential prop damage on a stumble. My harness is offset for torque so that at cruise speed it flys straight. On full over it turns right and on idle / off it turns left. Just apply some gentle steering to keep straight? Need to get used to the new engine which is opposite.

I can usually manage about 1 hour max. One tip is to park the brakes when flying at height and keep your hands on your lap or lower to keep the blood reaching your fingers. Handwarmers in your gloves help too. Try not to take off with cold hands or feet.

Hi, is the fuel tank in there too? Hoping to be able to try that myself this week!

Me flying gliders a few years ago. I handed in my notice at work and was put on gardening leave immediately. I lived near the gliding site and watched them fly over the house most days and thought I'd have a bash. 32 launches later I went solo, won the most improved pilot of 2007 at the club and got my Bronze Pilot licence with 10 hours and 5 minutes solo time. Minimum was 10 hours. Problem was, it just took so long to get flying with helping shift gliders, launch others, defrost canopies etc. Thats why I love PPG!! I also did 8 hours in an R22 before I realised it's a rich man's sport. 2 of which were on honeymoon in NZ (pictured)

Bronze Glider.

http://www.polini.com/en/page_547.html I have ordered this one for my new Polini Thor 200

Hi, did you find out if it was C or F they talk about? Manual says between 230 and 250 (max 265) but doesn't state C or F. I assume as it is European, it will be C but best to check!

keep em peeled! Seriously though, best to be looking out than looking at a gadget. I used Flarm when flying gliders but sometimes there were 15 I. Close proximity.

It is such a good video though. Gives me a Friday feeling!

Motors and wings come and go. I would 100% recommend you wait until you have had some training and advice from your instructor before buying anything. You will thanks me in the end for this advice!

It would be a lot worse if the weather was good!

I reckon I would probably only use the box when travelling or for long term storage. Probably leave the prop on and the stand and slide into the car like I did with the old Volution. Hoping for delivery next week - but it may be the one after

Perhaps they are wanted because they could help with something rather than low flying or the like? Did something happen in that village that they may have witnessed?

Interesting. Thanks for pulling it together. I'm not actually that fussed about weight of motor and bought my latest engine because of the higher thrust (I'm 100kg). I went for the Thor 200 - which will hopefully work less hard in flight too.

Hi David, nope, keeping it as I use it for the bikes. I just knocked up a wooden base and used some straps. It took about 20 mins to make. For the Zenith I'll make something nicer but it has to be quick release so I can use the Back-rak for other things. They are about £150 online. You can take it on and off in under a minute.

This is mine but I am waiting on a Zenith. I'll knock up a new stand for going to the local field. Used a Thule easy base. Forgot to say, the doors don't open with this set up.

Spoke to Castrol. They say that the Scooter oil is partially synthetic and Racing is fully Synthetic. He said they meet the same specifications (ie the API TC etc) When questioning the product codes at the bottom he said he didn't know. He was sticking to the Castrol line. For all we know it could be exactly the same stuff. But who wants to risk it?

Some info I found online. Looks like the cheaper stuff (Scooter) meets all the same standards as the expensive stuff (Racing). I'll try to get hold of some customer technical support today! Two-Stroke Oil Ratings Even today, there continues to be a huge number of questions regarding which oil is the one to use, which oil is better than another, and which oil is good enough. Let’s review the two-stroke lubricant standards; API TC; TCW; TC-W2; TC-W3; JASO FC; and ISO-L-EGD. Non-racing two-stroke oils are usually given ratings from the API (American Petroleum Institute) “TC”, the BIA (Boating Industry Association) “TC-W” and currently the NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association) “TC-W2 and TC-W3”. The TC, TC-W and TCW2 standards are not current and do not meet the standards of today’s performance engines. For a lubricant to receive one of these ratings it must pass certain levels of cleanliness and film strength. The lubricant is run at ratios up to 150:1 for specified times and loads. The engine is then examined for carbon deposits and for bearing and cylinder wear. If it meets the test criteria, the lubricant passes. The Japanese Automobile Manufacturers Organization (JASO) developed a series of tests aimed at presenting more real-world conditions that a lubricant used in a motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV or PWC would encounter in use by consumers. They test for exhaust valve cleanliness, lubricity, exhaust smoke/blocking and initial torque. The highest JASO standard is FC. These tests are very difficult to pass and are a better indicator of a lubricants level of protection and performance that TC-W3 in non-marine applications. European engine manufacturers tested TC-W3 and JASO lubricants and determined that their engines needed a cleaner lubricant and one that would withstand higher heat conditions. They established the ISO international standards for two stroke engine lubricants. Their first standard, ISO-L-EGB was comparable to the JASO FB standard. They later developed the ISO-L-EGC which is similar to the JASO FC rating. They felt they needed an even tougher standard for the newest generation of performance two stroke engines. The ISO-L-EGD+ was created to establish a higher standard of detergency and ability to withstand higher levels of heat. The new test runs for 3 hours vs 1 hour for the previous test. If a lubricant is certified ISO-L-EGD+ it has passed the most stringent tests set by American, Japanese and European engine manufacturers. Polaris recommends TC-W3 lubricants, Yamaha JASO FC and Ski-Doo/Sea-Doo requires ISO-L-EDG+ lubricants. Examine the oil bottle of any oil in question and see what the highest level of certification is. It is generally accepted that if you use a lubricant that meets the ISO-L-EGD+ standard in your new snowmobile you will provide certified warranty compliance and protection. AND this in later issue? Two-Stroke Oil Ratings: Confusion A small article titled “Two Stroke Oil Ratings” found in the Spring 2006 issue of SnowTech has created some confusion. Don Friedrich of Performance Parts informed us that there was no “ISO-L-EGD+” rating for two-stroke oils, as mentioned in the article. Don is correct. Technically, the proper nomenclature is “ISO EGD”. This is the technically accurate spec per ISO, the use of the “L” and the “+” appears to be the cause of the confusion. Klotz uses “ISO-L-EGD+” on their oils, and that is where it came from. ISO EGD is the “European” specification that slightly exceeds the “Japanese” JASO-FC. There is a new JASO-FD spec, as the ISO and JASO testing sequences have come closer together with the latest ‘FD’ and ‘EGD’ designations. Previously, the only difference was a 1 hour and 3 hour detergency - lubricity - ring groove - sticking test with JASO-FC and ISO-EGD respectively. Now, they are the same set of tests. Manufacturers tend to ignore the JASO and ISO standards for marketing reasons. If they make specific recommendations to their customers to use an oil that meets a certain standard, then companies that specialize in lubricants can meet these standards and then claim “Factory Approved”. Therefore, the statement that “Ski-Doo/Sea-Doo requires ISO-L-EGD+ lubricants”, also found in the above mentioned article, is not completely accurate. Ski-Doo/Sea-Doo has recommended the use of ISO EGD lubricants, but more specifically suggests the use of their own proprietary XPS lubricants as “no known equivalent is available” in reference to their SDI engines. Meanwhile, you can quit looking for oils with a rating of ISO-L-EGD+. Instead, look for the ISO EGD or the new JASO-FD as the highest ratings available to 2-stroke oil manufacturers and users. MY TEXT***** soo the real question is, if im reading this right is ISO EGD/ JASO FC the same as ISO EGD+/JASO FD ? from above ISO EGD is the “European” specification that slightly exceeds the “Japanese” JASO-FC. There is a new JASO-FD spec, as the ISO and JASO testing sequences have come closer together with the latest ‘FD’ and ‘EGD’ designations. Previously, the only difference was a 1 hour and 3 hour detergency - lubricity - ring groove - sticking test with JASO-FC and ISO-EGD respectively. Now, they are the same set of tests.

Hi, I was wander around Tesco last night and spotted some Castrol Power 1 (Scooter) 2T Oil for sale at half price (£4.99). It doesn't say fully synthetic anywhere on the label. I took a photo of the code on the back to compare to my usual tipple of Power 1 (Racing) 2T which does mention fully synthetic. Both bottles have the same code of API TC+;JASO FD;ISO L-EGD I was told by a chap in Halfords a while ago that if the codes are the same, it is the same oil inside. Even the two smaller codes underneath are the same - P820180-01 834360/10 So anyone have any experience of this? Are Castrol just differentiating the market to get some more value out of the branding for the "Racing" Would you risk it? I have a new Zenith coming and won't risk it until I am confident. But the price is pretty good!

Do we know what happened?

What about the Thor 100 then?

I would lay might down harness first in my car for days on end with a half tank of fuel no bother. Carb sits higher than the tank like that anyway.

Cheers Phil, I'll give then a shot.

They seem to get decent reviews, just wondering if anyone has tried them?