fanman

Morgy, sorry I didn't mean to imply I was having a pop at you. Bailey have always been very good at being honest about the weight of their machine and have always taken flak for being considered heavy. It's time the truth came out that although they are heavy compared to some there are many that are heavier still. Time for a bit of fairness. It's also a very good frame that shows the importance of matching thrustline with hang point and that swing arms aren't as necessary as many believe.

Morgy, are you saying you have flown a Parajet once and all the rest of your flights are on Your Bailey? If so then you have only ever flown machines weighing around 33kg. You wouldn't only ever drive a Ford Fiesta and a Vauxhall Corsa and announce that all cars are much the same. You should test fly one of the various machines out there weighing 10+kg less than your current machine. You might be very surprised.

I take it that's Seymore Hicks?

Manifold adapter? Most diaphragm carbs bolt directly via a gasket onto the reed block.

Sorry about that, I thought he had the comfort bar. They can be converted but it's not cheap. Norman has a CB one. He might consider selling it because you never hear him talking about actually flying it!

Chris Clarke (formerly Skydragons owner) has one for sale. Knowing Chris it will probably be immaculate and never crashed! zero seven five two five zero four six six six six. £2500. He lives near Basingstoke by the way. Can I have the tandem bars as a thankyou?

You are too far leaned back. As well as the fuel tank adding weight slightly behind the hang point you also have a thrustline that is fairly well below the wing attachment causing more lean back under power. This lean back will also be further added too when in the climb because the power rotating you forward under the wing. I would guess your lean back angle is about 20 degrees there. A manual for a similar machine reckons you should be looking for a lean back of around 5 degrees. It quotes horizontal distances from the carabiner to the frame for different pilot weights as a basic guide before doing a hang test. These are pilot weight 60kg - 26cm, 75kg - 28cm, 90kg - 30cm. These are obviously not figures for your machine but I think you'll see from these figures that your set up is not right.

For a bigger guy you'll rarely go wrong with a Fresh Breeze. Get one with either the Sportix set up or the excellent comfort bar mid system. The high soft J bars are ok but the other systems are nicer to live with and don't need the brake lines and pulleys adjusted. The only other ones worth looking at are the simo engined Flat Top and Kobra Rocco. These are both good machines however support for the Kobra is yet to be properly tested in the UK. The Flat Top is very well supported in the US but you may have to get bits sent over rather than getting them from a UK supplier. The Flat Top would probably have sold in greater numbers in the UK if it wasn't associated with Dell. If I was you I'd test a regular simo engined Sportix and a regular Flat Top. Both standard models will fly your weight better than you think.

If you want to keep your fingers don't hold the cage outer rim when the engine is running (2min into the film)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That was the original type of PAP swing arm. After that there was the same arm without the welded piece on the side of one arm. Instead they used 2 D shackles welded side by side with a single long pin running through both shackles. After the 1300 stopped manufacture (replaced by the 1250) they brought out the current cast aluminium arms.

Call me a cynic Phil but this prop damage business is getting a bit expensive! viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3730

A few years ago many of us were using a device called a Quest XC. It had many useful feature such as a calibrated fuel sensor which told you exactly how much fuel was in your tank regardless of the tank shape. It's navigation displays would also give you a real time wind vector which along with other parameters would give you an accurate fuel on arrival or fuel on return to home figure.

Unfortunately to answer that question then the individual motor/reduction/prop becomes a required variable.

Herein lies the problem. The Synth wing section is optimised for the lower end of the speed range where it is alctually resonably efficient for a reflex. It is when it is pushed to full fast that it loses economy slightly quicker than the other typical reflex wings.

Personal opinion only but here goes... Fresh Breeze - quality engineering, quality design, quality service, proven product, high resale value, etc, etc Fly Products - not many people buying them these days, build quality questionable, back up???? http://www.paraglidingforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=22659 and the there's the engines... Simonini - excellent and especially so when Fresh Breeze have done their specific mods to it. Economic, powerful, quiet, smooth and reliable for a paramotor. Black Devil - not popular in the UK because they are a little unrefined. More vibration than most, more fuel thirsty than most and not as powerful as the Simonini. For me the choice would be the Sportix without a shadow of a doubt. Sportix also about to be offered with the Polini Thor which would be a good option unless you're a real lardy.

Yes, if it's working ok then best to leave it alone. There are 2 mods, one is a notched butterfly allowing the idle adjustment screw to be backed off to suitable levels and better fuel atomising from the low jets. The other is to partally block 2 of the 3 low speed jets using a U shaped piece of 0.020" wire.

Simon, Ozone make some absolutely wonderful wings. I have no experience on the Roadster so I'm not best suited to comment. I suspect that it would be absolutley fine on bar and fast trim and it's just a case of Ozone being naturally pessimistic and living in fear of being sued!! They definitely are paraglider people first, paramotor people second, and hey, why not if that is their expertise. Fortunately it sounds like you have the right kind of background to work this out but it would be so much easier if they gave you a more informative manual to start with.

A couple of mm difference in bore between the 32 (narrower) and the 37. WB32 also has significantly different architecture for the low/mid fuelling which will naturally cause rich mid range but can be sorted into a better overall running carb if you are prepared to do the mods. 32 (when modded) is more fuel efficient and less prone to carb icing. 37 will not neccessarily give you more thrust. Choke is not a standard fit on either 32 or 37 but each has variants that can have chokes fitted.

Not quite sure I understand what you're implying Dan. If you are going too fast use the brakes - If the wing is surging above you then yes but if you are at a consistent speed that is too fast then gently come off bar and then if further speed reduction required reduce trim. if you are going to slow use the trimmers - off the brakes and let out the trimmers. if it's still too slow mix in some bar - on some manufacturers wings you really want to get properly accelerated letting out trim before contemplating bar. have lots of fun - yes put some trust in your reflex wing - I would like to agree but the Ozone manual says to go to a considerably reduced reflex setting and fly actively!

Downloaded the manual and it contains even less info than the other manufacturers manuals! A lot of reading between the lines required for this one but there are some clues (and some differences in there). It would seem that there is no tip steering system as standard so turn would normally be induced by weightshift, brake input or stabilo line direct application. Page 5 suggests maillons level as the base setting for take off and landing. It seems that (like Dudek but unlike Paramania wings) there is some reflex profile at this setting. There would appear to be no reflex at the slowest trim setting. Ozone are not as trusting of the reflex profile like Dudek and Paramania as they are very quick to state that turbulent conditions require the wing to be slowed by pulling the trim in and transferring to active flying (they would appear to design reflex wings as migrating paraglider designers rather than dedicated paramotor designers perhaps). Were you aware of this before you bought the wing? Did you buy it new or second hand? Although it is not mentioned in the manual if it was my wing, when flying at faster trim settings I would use a combo of weightshift and stabilo line steering for directional control so as not to pull the reflex out of the profile. In fact this nicely highlights the huge differences between the different manufacturers attitudes to reflex very nicely and how they can't be generalised as a 'one size fits all' approach!

Graphics cards are more important for gaming where the card actually handles the calculations rather than straight playback. For HD work processor speed is of most importance (aided by multiple cores) backed up with suitable amounts of RAM.

Of course people will look for generalisations, that is human nature. You agreed with a generalisation that I consider to be incorrect. You may not like that but I am more interested in safety and understanding. You highlight yourself how the manual is inadequate in explaining techniques to be employed flying these wings. The Fusion manual (like many manufacturers manuals) does not give satisfactory explanation to how reflex works to create a stable flying wing and this really should be addressed, especially in light of the fact that MCJ can never be available worldwide for seminars for everyone who buys one of his wings new or second hand.

These are the 'generalisations' that are misleading newcomers (and experienced people) in this sport. Justin stated "I've done lots of reading up on this from various magazines and online articles etc and my understanding of this is that when a reflex glider has the trimmers fully closed there is a slight undercamber of the wing section i.e. the opposite of reflex and in neutral trim position the wing section would be similar aerofoil to that of a normal paraglider i.e. no undercamber or reflex". You agreed with this but 'undercamber' is not present in wings exhibiting reflex profiles right down to slow trim. Certain designers use this while others don't so generalisations dumping reflex wings into one tidy bag are not helpful. By the way I have no issue with the comments about use of bar. My issue is with lack of understanding in the low speed flight range. Fusion manual page 8 tells you to start flying the wing with trim at "take off position and slower, basically below the neutral trim position" then "try flying with a small amount of brake". Then at the bottom of the page it says "With the trim fully released, the wing takes on more solid characteristics... With more speed, brake pressures increase as does the range of movement prior to the stall point. Turns and rate of roll are linked in a linear fashion. However at full speed WTS system or simply weight shift becomes more effective than the bakes. As a conventional paragliding pilot it may take time to gain the confidence in the wing to “let go” of the brakes, but once you do it’s a whole other world!". The manual is telling you to fly with brake pressure below the neutral trim system and hands off when the wing has taken on its reflex profile. Not the easiest to interpret from the book but it is there. Because these things are so deeply hidden it is hardly surprising that so many people are struggling to understand what to do. I have only just got round to reading the article in the last paramotor mag about reflex wings and come away absolutely horrified how 4 people responsible for wing design can have such different ideas on how reflex works. I intend to email them individually because I think it's time we started clarifying the terminolgy used and also get some explanations for some very wild comments. MCJ was quite right to start with a blank sheet of paper when bringing reflex to the paramotoring world. Personally I wish ITV and Ozone would open their eyes and realise that most paramotor pilots do not originate from paragliding and aren't necessarily after the traits of their free flying wings. Paramania and Dudek both show that the desirable qualities of reflex can be incorporated fully into wings that are perfectly capable of soaring.

Many have started with a reaction but it is a bit hotter on and off the ground. Handling is a bit more dynamic and too much of the speed range is on the bar rather than on the trims. A good buy but perhaps better to hold out for a Synth or Revo. There will be a few become available as the season progresses as people upgrade. The Fusion and Nucleon are whetting the appetites of those flying Synths and Revo's for the last couple of years so these wings will become available.

NO, different manufacturers use reflex differently at the slower end of the trim range. It is not possible to make the assumptions that Justin is making unless you specify the wing in question. There are dealers and instructors out there that are not aware of this. The owners manual tells you how to fly the wing at different trim settings but they are not always suggesting the same technique from wing to wing because all reflex wings are not the same.