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Blackburn Mark

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Everything posted by Blackburn Mark

  1. I have come up against that problem. You can only post so many images, then you are kind of out of storage... Its quite debilitating! I am sure Simon or the software has its reasons for limiting image uploads but its not fun for information sharing.
  2. Yep, that's about as good as it gets at being BAD
  3. Splendid! I bet that wasn't the first pull Sounds good and healthy... Fingers crossed that it holds up.
  4. 25mph trimmed in // Efficient and safe 35mph trimmed out // more fuel burn, more dynamic recovery 40mph trimms + bar // poring fuel away, hard to hold for long periods The Qubik seems like a reasonably quick wing. I am going to assume you only have "efficiency" to gain in the most part on a hotter wing unless you are cool with spending hours on full bar (very uncommon) I imagine the Kougar 3 will be more efficient trimmed out than your Qubik and you get +7mph Boring XC's for me are anything above 500ft but low and slow has its own set of problems
  5. Ouch, stuck under Bradford CTR. I'm a bit too far west for you. It can be tough to hack it on your own at first, I did two years before people started turning up, now I rarely get the field to myself There are small undocumented clans of flyers dotted around here and there but finding them would be a bit tricky. I stumbled across one yesterday north of Colne... If I can dig our any info on them ill let you know. Flying with others can make life a LOT easier while you are cutting your teeth!
  6. The V5 only uses a CVK 26 so a 30mm would be wasted. V2's are CVK 24 and mine seems to be able to deliver more than the machine can use so I wouldn't worry about it. I think the V5's went to the CVK 26 so they could delete the auto choke/charge coils/battery by using the accelerator pump on the 26 to add fuel (pump the throttle before pull starting) The standard CVK's have a 12v driven wax servo to close the "choke" after a short run time.
  7. I am pretty sure the standard larger GY6 stroke is 57.8mm With yours being a 61.3 stoker (+3.5) that would give you 158.63cc with a standard 57.4mm GY6 piston. I cannot see it having a standard size piston because strokers are expensive and cylinder-piston sets cheap (I got a 63mm cylinder piston kit for £45 // A stroker crank would cost me three times that much) so I'm guessing either 60mm piston (+2.6mm) or a 61mm piston (+3.6mm) The former would give you a 173.32cc (175cc) The latter 179.15cc (180cc) I have heard the v2's referred to as 180cc and 175cc so there may have been some mixing of piston sizes (or even stroker sizes) so there is no way to be sure of piston size until it needs a re-build. Having said that, Ill put money on yours NOT being a 150cc
  8. Pretty sure it will be the 175. It should have a 5mm aluminum spacer between the cylinder and crank case which means it has a stroker crank (+5mm) and you wouldn't go to the trouble and expense of putting a stroker in without putting on a larger cylinder.
  9. Two runs for the price of one I know the syndrome well!
  10. its a concern when the stakes are so high. I would like to have a little more weight-shift but my doglegs now form part of my trike structure so I have even less weight shift than you. With the "mid" bars, you have enough weight shift for course corrections so it might be worth trying a set of those if you can get hold of any or build some... Having said that, I have yet to look at the two differing harnesses to see if they are interchangeable, Ill have a look this weekend if its not flyable
  11. Cant open the MOV fie... Mine rattle around like they are quite worn but I am personally unconcerned... As long as the pip pins cant come out I cant see anything exciting happening. I was just looking for some stainless tubing in a more bendable alloy yesterday so I could make another "mid" set for another machine I now have that has the "high" bars like yours. I think my last attempt was with 316 stainless (didn't go well, very tough stuff)... apparently 304 is more malleable so i might give that a go if I can find any with the right dimensions.
  12. Being heavy helps a lot... It takes a lot more finesse to get over a large wing... They are less dynamic though if it all goes tits
  13. Don't sandbag us, those are pretty good... You haven't got stuck only being able to get three in before you lose your timing I'm no expert, I could go over the top when I was free flying a small wing but now I am afraid of snapping one of my bodged up dog-legs... And I'm getting old! They are fun and good practice for exiting any wild departures from normal flight. If you initiate very late (in order to loop or go BIG) and you don't have enough energy, be prepared to momentarily bury both breaks at or around the apex or your lines will go slack and you will lose a large portion of your wing (I'm not 100% sure of the exact timing sat hear behind my keyboard so take that for what it is) Its best to "inch" your way into getting bigger, that way if there are any errors you will likely only lose a wing tip. I think everyone ought to be able to get 50% of their wing under the horizon, 50% is not unreasonably risky and it gives a good feel and confidence in how to bleed off asymmetric energy which is the most likely departure we would see in rowdy air.
  14. Some images and a writeup of you rebuild adventure would be cool. Popular engine like that... It would be nice to get a closer look at its guts
  15. I would think it would be fine with the double hoop but I like the way you are thinking Its very easy to damage your gear and props are expensive! Lots of mods and bodges on my Baileys... Its a bit of a scruffy mess but it flies. You may be hitting the power before you are upright if you are putting enough tension to flex the frame... I'm not saying that is a bad thing, whatever you are doing its getting you airborne and your frame is now stiff enough to take the grief of doing so. Fuel pumps, I have seen two fail on these, yours is the third so get a spare (GY6 fuel pump ebay £10 ish) there are a few types, pretty sure any of the generic ones will work but they have differing mount hole patterns. I have used two different types and they both worked fine. Glad to hear you are making it work and that you prefer it to the Atom... The Atom is a very nice machine but I think you need to wring the Atoms neck a little too hard to match the V2 which is more of a civilized plod
  16. That's just a Hollands meat n potato for posh people!
  17. Too much slack on the leg straps. Pull out the leg strap slack until you can feel a good bit of tension when you lift a knee (making sure you can still run) Then when you are off the ground, lifting your knees will pull the seat board under your backside without the need to mess about. If you miss judge and cant get in, reach around with your free hand until you feel the board and push it down while lifting your knees, it can be tricky but its way better than landing and having to start again :)
  18. Its what we eat around here when we cant get our hands on a Wigan kebab! We don't like cucumber sandwiches round here!
  19. I'm not apposed to a shot of adrenaline now and again, it really wakes you up but the best flights for me these days are those where its smooth enough to eat a jam buttie halfway through a three hour XC Exploring the world from my comfy chair.
  20. I have heard they launch very easily but i take most of what i hear with a pinch of salt. In principle, with being a single skin, they ought to be very "lifty"... Try and get a demo on one because foot launch is so much more versatile and it sounds like you are missing out. I could still foot-launch in a six mph wind which would get me airborne in the long grass
  21. I fly a Baileys V2 so HEAVY... I used to have a Solo 210 20 years ago, that was pretty heavy too. I just built a trike a couple of months ago... I had no choice, getting old, 23m wing, heavy gutless motor and a refusal to pay large cash on any of the shiny lightweight thirsty two-strokes. I can now get off in nil winds again but it still takes a pretty long roll to get airborne Trikes are a bit "grandad" but they have their advantages!
  22. It can be expensive, noisy, smelly, heavy, scary and the weather window can be infuriatingly narrow but, if you are lucky you will be one of those who just cant help but shoulder the pain in the ass the sport can be to get your hands on those moments that make it all worthwhile. There is nothing like it! The hardest part is deciding to "do it" rather than "watching"
  23. looks like you have some wild country out there. You would have your hands full crossing some of that terrain but its not insurmountable and it looks like you are spoilt for choice in places to explore from the air. lots of your roadside clearings have power lines. With reasonably tuned spot landing skills and some forward planning, I would say it is well worth it... At times you will have to fly high to keep within glide of landing spots... This can be a bit boring, low and slow is where most of the fun is at I often fly close to four hours... Battery would make the range radius quite frustrating for me in a place like that.
  24. Looks pretty robust to me! You could drop that off a building, dust it off and fly it Bit small on diameter to make sense though. There have been two finger chopping events recently, I personally suspect that the trend for having a larger gap between the hoop plane and the prop is allowing the frame to collapse and delivering fingers directly to the prop BEFORE the frame can destroy the prop (in line/prop snag events, the hand can get pinned to the frame and winched into the prop) I might do some drawing to warn folks of the issue as its making bloody nervous now i know about it.
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