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Blackburn Mark

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Blackburn Mark last won the day on August 9

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  1. Okay, If you are feeling brave and have "some" diagnostic skills....(or willing to learn some new things)... it seems most people with old Baileys have opted for the Lipo option. They take a little more caring for than lead acids. The following are "Slow Boat from China" prices (ebay) £16 I use one of these £26 (I couldn't find the exact model I use) This one is marked as a C60... not sure I believe that but as long as its at least a C20, that would give you 150 cranking Amps £3.... XT60 solder one of these to your battery leads You will need to cut the charging wire (one snipped wire doesn't sound so bad ) According to this drawing, its the yellow wire (I thought mine was white) I don't THINK either are being used on our machines. I could walk you through that if you chose to commit to the option.... you would basically need to confirm (with your meter) that there is no charge voltage getting to the battery when its running (you want 12.6v or whatever the battery is charged to and not the 14v or whatever the magneto is pumping out) It may seem a little complex but in practice, you are snipping one wire and soldering a new battery connector. Charging off the motor is not quite as nice as having it charge onboard but its no big deal and they are very lightweight compared to the lead acid batterie's.
  2. I am going to assume not. Its a sealed lead acid with rather small terminals so might be a tad weak on the cranking amps or might not last long under such high discharge. If it cheap, it might be worth a punt for the science but be prepared for it to fail early in its life. How are you with electronics? Do you have a multimeter?
  3. I'm going to have to try those one day
  4. Its there in the report Alan.... or am I missing something? It seems quite serviceable to me Jay... You sound like you may be self-training... Not necessarily a bad thing (all things considered) but you are somewhat on your own in that there is a danger for anyone encouraging such behavior so expect some people to be guarded (especially folks selling gear) Ground handling in sub 10mph wind in a large clear flat field (plenty of room to get dragged without knocking your brains out on a tree, fence or set of goal posts) is as far as I personally am willing to stick my neck out... Maybe a touch less than 10mph as this is quite a large wing (29m2) It will give you an idea of what is involved in controlling a wing without needing a mortgage, its lots of fun, good exercise and beats watching TV... its not without risk though!
  5. They are not referenced in the Bailey schematic:
  6. Those sockets look to be non standard but I don't have the V4 (I have the V2) Ill guess one is for charging/boosting (heavy gauge wires/blue socket) and one is for auxiliary 12v (heated gloves or whatever)... Basically, both wired to the +12v and -12v of the battery terminals but you might want to double check with a meter
  7. This isn't advice or instruction.... I have used superglue and chopped carbon fiber strands (I would have used glass strands if I had some or raw glue if it didn't run so easily... I would even try cotton if I had to, its just to add bulk) This is for small "chips"... smaller than a little finger nail. Wire brush (Dremel style), acetone clean, glue-fiber, sand... mine are not pretty but they are serviceable
  8. I keep meaning to design a new throttle with a non-line-snagging friction clutch.... Long flights hurt my fingers after a couple of hours. Ill get to it one day
  9. Assuming its an "inline" job...... I think most treat a priming bulb as nothing more than more fuel line... as long as it cant get into contact with any moving parts or be knocked off, it ought to be good. Batteries.... I would not obsess about part numbers at all, as long as you get a similar Ah rating, voltage and size (cranking amps), you ought to be good. Lots of us with old Bailey's use lipo batteries of various voltages, I personally use a 11.1v 5.5Ah Lipo and at least one other on here uses a 14.8v 5.5Ah Lipo with no reported problems (all types are likely to be pulled down bellow 10v during cranking) I have cut my charging wire and charge separately.... I "ASSUME" if you have a 14.8v Lipo, you may get away without cutting the charging wire but it would need some carful thought because Lipo's are not friendly if you over charge them but they are light, reasonably cheep even if bought with a charger and work well. I think you may have failed to attach your files Keep trying, you will work it out
  10. A double edge sword.... On the one hand, the best looking landscape in the UK to fly over and on the other, miles away from anywhere! The Scottish weather window might be a bit narrower than it is for most of us and you have the mountains churning the wind into lumps on their lea side.... I personally would still want to get airborne up there given half the chance... You are likely to going to need to obsess more than most over weather details. I really hope you crack this, it would be nice to have someone on Skye reporting back here with mind boggling photos
  11. There are very few places I am willing to use without permission... Remote, scrubby open access or "common" land, I will use when it is obvious that there is no "reasonable" argument against it.... I tend to launch and stay well away from that spot to minimize any attention. You cant beat having permission though, park up, make a brew, jibber jabber with others, fly, land, more jibber jabber
  12. Some people travel to various launch sights, some stay local, some do 100 miles on an XC, some are happy with a 60 min circuit. I started off with a motor but fell in love with free-flight, did that for many years then got back into paramotoring.... Its hard to say what you will take to so be as cautious as you can with the cash in your attempts to find out If you are after "sightseeing" then a paramotor is hard to beat!
  13. !!!ESTIMATE!!! Assuming about 12/15hp, I would think a 3:1 (ish) reduction at 7 degrees of pitch on a 130cm prop diameter. I think! Too low a ratio and your motor would be unable to spin up the prop to the motors max power // Too high a ratio and the motor would hit its max revs without the prop taking a good bite at the air. It does get done from time to time but the easier option would be to try to get your hands on a damaged/dead machine.
  14. Being a skinflint and a bodger, ill second that No images of your build exploits Mike? There are too few on here with grubby hands! Promise not to laugh at your welds
  15. I would assume it would be easer to find the throttle than find the off switch (I ought to practice finding the switch now that I think about it) My cable is only just long enough to cover the arc of my arm and the net gaps have been closed with extra lacing (Learned the hard way and lost a prop to a cable//prop-strike) It doesn't really matter what others might do, you have now had the experience, escaped with all your fingers and toes intact.... What would YOU do in that situation?
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