bendmeroundthehedge

First outing of the Contour HD headcam straight out of the box. Not bad considering the size of the camera. Have to learn to restrict the head movements a bit. ]http://www.youtube.com/user/bendmeroundthehedge#p/a/u/0/aAKiEgv2K3s Pilots: Dr. Marc - Fresh Breeze Sprotex Me - FlyProducts Gold 115 Kev

Chrome don't get ya home. Look forward to the pics. Kev

'my friend has just done a diy paramotor. simmonini mini 2 with exhaust reduction etc and prop £1700. prop-se cage, tank harness, hang points, throttle etc £720. engine arrived direct from factory in 3 days, the rest from prop-se took 8 days, assembling it with him tomorrow. why pay more than £4K when you can have the dogs b's for that price' Any chance of having some pics of the pro-se cage? Especially the engine mounting/harness points. Kev

Good call Phil. All manufacturers like to use big numbers whether it be bike, car or whatever until it comes to fuel consumption, or in the case of paramotors weight/thrust/fuel consumption. Ask for your money back. This is by far the worst sport I have got into, it is oozing with BS. This may be twisted, but I'm too old to care! Kev

Hi, I am not familiar with this engine but you really need to find the cause of the stator being chewed up i.e. filings on the engine. Maybe the engine bearing and/or the oil seal failing? Kev

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 8878793857 IMO Save your money.

Had a penny dropping moment. A bit of background first, most paramotors use an AC ignition system, but that is a bit misleading as the CDI needs a DC supply to work. That is achieved by a rectifier built into the CDI unit to convert AC to DC. This would explain why the HT coil worked OK in the bike shop. I would hazard a guess that the shop tested it using a DC supply, but when fitted onto the paramotor it would not work as the internal rectifier was goosed and unable to convert AC to DC for the capacitor. Maybe?

AC systems don't need a battery, they are powered by a magneto system (IE flywheel with magnets and stator windings) . Some use a more complicated DC (direct current) system which is powered from a battery. If you are unsure which type of system you have you can tell by looking at the wiring diagram, AC systems get power from the mag and are grounded out to turn them off. DC systems get power from the battery through the normal system power and are turned off by shutting off the power. kev

I sent an e-mail to IDM regarding the coil CDI unit. I was interested to find out if the coil CDI units were all the same internally and if the numbers on the outside meant there were any differences in the units. I received a very swift reply: "Dear sir,only difference is lenght of cables. You can use with no problem. Regards. IDM Srl" Bearing in mind it was Sunday and I had the reply late Sunday night, all I can say is fantastic. One size fits all. Kev

Thanks Pete, I had exhausted parts substitiute and adjustment, I now have a new direction to explore. Cheers Kev

Hi Pete, Good suggestion, no I havn't checked compression yet, hadn't thought of that. Any idea what it should be? Apart from what I have already mentioned, I have changed the carb, reed valve, CDI unit. I'm running out of ideas. Kev

Thanks for the info. This engine has blown a hole in the piston 4 times now. I have pressure tested it, run it rich, moved the timing(retarded), tried a smaller prop but the temp still keeps climbing. It may be that it is a 'Friday Engine' , but I hate to admit defeat and would really like to crack this problem even though it has been an unenjoyable, expensive journey. I do have another motor now, so I can still fly. This engine will have to be an ongoing, headscratching project - but I would love to solve it! Kev

This Mini 2 engine has had a problem with excessive heat - big time! The cure - well band-aid approach has been to run it very rich. I think a V8 would be more economical. I have never been a big 2 stoke fan, the sport has brought us together, but not through choice. By my very nature , I cannot leave a problem unsolved. After trying various things, my next move was to investigate the timing. Readily available information for this engine is very poor. Added to that I had no equipment and it seemed extravagent to purchase same for just a one off. This video is my solution to this problem. Maybe it is the wrong reduction drive for this prop causing excessive heat? They make four different sizes. How do I find the right one? Something else I know nothing about. Can anyone help on this? If nothing else, it's a learning curve. Kev

Nice one Simon. Good informative post. Glad you got it sorted. Just as a matter of interest, can you tell me what the green numbers stamped on your coil are? Something like 71 1448. Sounds weird I know, but I'm a geek. Cheers Kev

It's cool, it's trendy, it's a fashion statement. I'm a lemming. Personally I don't like swivel pin bolts or linkages, but that's just me.

You said in your last post that you were getting tiny sparks with the plug cap removed. Have you tried a replacement cap? Don't know if you are aware of this, the spark always looks white and weak, in fact you struggle to see it on a sunny day. The spark is hotter than the big blue spark you would normally see on a car. That tiny spark may be OK. Have you looked for any other possibilities causing the non-starting?

Looks like they do the cap end ones as well if you want the same type. Good luck.

You will find the size stamped on the rubber. I believe your size is 40x30 M8. Just remember, make sure the bolt in the female end is not too long when tightened up.

99p Bargain.Swivel £1 extra. http://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/exhaust ... st_springs

Why? Everyday life is geared to get from A to B as fast as possible. I can just see it now - stressed out, leaning forward in the harness, just to get another 10th of a mile out of it. I may have a different perspective on life but the sport for me is chilllll and watch the planet slowly drift by. I for one hope the sport does not go that way.

Are you using a resistor type plug? Some motors do not like these and you end up with a dead plug. Try a non-resistor type.

Yes that will be fine. As they are in series, just add them together.

The motorcycle fraternity (the non-fuel injected ones) are using Silkolene Pro FST. http://www.silkoleneoil.com/techtip7.htm Kev

The 340 reading in test 1 is within spec for the pulse trigger coil. I would not have thought that you would get any reading on 2k ohms in test 2. The best approach with a CDI is to eliminate everything else, or as Pete said, substitution. Kev

Royal Mail Fraud RINGMASTER MESSAGE 1589 FOR INFORMATION - APOLOGIES IF YOU HAVE ALREADY BEEN SENT THIS. Can you circulate this around especially as Xmas is fast approaching - it has been confirmed by Royal Mail? The Trading Standards Office are making people aware of the following. A card is posted through your door from a company called PDS (Parcel Delivery Service) suggesting that they were unable to deliver a parcel and that you need to contact them on 0906 6611911 (a Premium rate number). DO NOT call this number, as this is a mail scam originating from Belize. If you call the number and you start to hear a recorded message you will already have been billed £315 for the phone call. If you do receive a card with these details, then please contact Royal Mail Fraud on 020 7239 6655.