bendmeroundthehedge

http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-727-16- ... 2161-p.asp

I believe power 1 racing was originally called Castrol R2.

As an afterthought................. The post above assumes the timing is correct. The units I have seen come more retarded. An engine straight from the manufacturer is more aggresive, great for showing the ladies your thrust, but it may well benefit if it is more retarded. (Badge and T-shirt fully on display) You will not really notice the lower output. Instead of snapping the throttle open from idle, as usually suggested, try holding the throttle open at ¼ revs for a couple of minutes, then snap it open. This may help diagnose mid-range running. A plug chop can only give you an indication of how it is running at WOT and nowhere else in the rev range. As usual, this is IMO.

Apologies for a late reply. Have had some head-scratching moments with blown pistons. Here's my findings which you may find useful. I found , with the variable timing CDI that the timing curve is still peaking max advance at approx 4000rpm and retards more and more as the revs increase. WOT is not a problem, but cruising, especially with a large prop would bring the rev range down to where its running at max advance (mid-range). Mid-throttle seizures are often overlooked and more common inmodern equipment because of this. WOT its running great, but as soon as you lower the revs, bringing it back to max advance, and you have a lean mid-range condition, detonation can occur, followed by piston destruction in short order. As mentioned earlier, check the pop-off, even though the engine does not see the pop-off past idle. The paddle height and low screw all affect the mid-range. The lower the pop-off pressure, the more sensitive the low screw is to change and easily affects the litre per hour consumption. IMO Please let us know when you have the problem resolved. Good luck.

Did the problem arise before or after the carb overhaul? If you do get to check the pop-off pressure, remove the cover plate and diaphragm first for a more consistant, accurate reading.

It's an internal filter that fit's inside your existing air box. It's not either or, but both together.

Have you considered using an airbox filter? I really don't understand why these are not fitted as standard with the machines costing so much. Air box optional, filter a must. Why does anybody want grinding paste inside their pride and joy? www.kkckartshop.co.uk/pc/AIR-FILTER-FOR ... 2p1967.htm

Turn the inlet nipple on the carb to eliminate the loop in the fuel line. It will turn but be very very careful - owners risk and all that! If you are having the barrel refurbished, send the new piston with it so that it can be matched perfectly. Is the machine old? Bit of a long shot but check the pulse line is not gummed up.

You can get the part you need from any karting shop. www.kartingdirect.co.uk/product.php/341/262 - think this is what youa re looking for. A surprising number of parts can be obtained from the karting world. Kev

German para boots from the Army/Navy store. They offer excellent protection, more importantly allow movement.

Sounds good. Anybody know how much warranty is offered on just engine alone? Kev

Good to see the site up & running again. Kev

Have used the Micro Avionics headset. I found that listening to music with the volume cranked up uses up the battery life rather quickly. The headset is decent enough , the weak point for me being the soldered in re-chargeables. I would prefer them to be removeable.

Avoid headsets with built in rechargeable batteries. They will let you down when you least expect it. To be able to change the battery in the field is a much better option IMO. Kev

Hi Pete, Have you tried jump leads diectly onto the starter? Will it start then? Also, is there a spark when cranking with the starter button? Kev

Try and simulate the pull start action by popping the starter instead of holding it on.

Flyproducts do a fuel LED in the hand throttle. http://www.americanparagliding.com/flyp ... /index.htm Good luck Norris with fitting it to your application. Keep the creative juices flowing!

28mm x 1mm http://beedspeed.com/product_info.php?c ... cts_id=227

Can anyone tell me why I can't post in 'Kit wanted or for Sale section'? Thanks Kev

Have a look round this site. Lots of info for plugs, adapters, leads etc. http://www.nac-inter.com/product_info.p ... anguage=en

Most quick connectors use Buna O rings. Problem. Eventually they swell slightly making it harder to dis-connect/re-connect resulting in eventual damge/failure. Sorry Alan, no part numbers, just noticed them when picking up some oil. The following links give better options. http://www.tom-parker.co.uk/products_su ... roups=899A http://www.tom-parker.co.uk/products_su ... roups=897A

Halfords do plastic quick connectors (for motorcycles). Whichever ones you choose, try to get the ones with Viton O rings. http://www.colder.com/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx

Paranoid or pefectionist? Think you have the ear for large sweet running four-strokes. Two=stroke singles will never sound right, especially on tick-over. Nasty.

I found gauges a load of hassle as readings are not black and white http://www.challengers101.com/ExhaustGasTemp.html I have used 'Colortune' with great care and laser pointer. The only sure fire way is, as Dan said "check plug colour. After all it lives in there" http://tsrsoftware.com/images/read_plug ... ftware.jpg A little tip. Use a piece of clear plastic tubing over your low screw to guide the screwdriver. Hard to do when the engine is jerking all over the place otherwise.

Excellent pointers. As a matter of interest, how have you attached your camera? Have you just used velcro?