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stevec's Achievements


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  1. Mainly because it's under warranty and I don't want to void that. If the manufacturer advised me to do it then I'd be happy to. Although the wg8 carb only has adjustment for low end. High end is fixed jet, so I just have lever height and spring tension to play with.
  2. Overall I'm quite happy with the Booster motor. It's probably done about 35 hours now. I have a few niggles with it, and to be honest, the factory haven't been very responsive, although I haven't pushed them too far. The main issues are: 1. Fuel consumption - I was expecting as good as my top 80 but I'm getting about 4 l/hour on a Nucleon 27 with AUW 105kg, mixed trim settings. 2. Spooge - It oozes graphite-like spooge from the seams in the carbon silencer. This goes all over the prop. My mates doesn't do this and it could be linked to rich running and the high consumption. The only response I got from the factory was "turn the low end mixture screw in 1/4 turn". I know the WG-8 carbs inside out and that isn't going to make any difference. I wanted to check pop off pressures, lever height, spring, etc, but the factory won't give me any settings. Not like my top 80, where there is an abundance of information. 3. Belt slipping - The belt needs to be really tight to prevent slipping at high rpm. Factory response is that it isn't a problem! 4. RPM - If you use the 130cm prop then you won't get the max published rpm, it will be a few hundred less. I tried both props and only got peak rpm on the 125. I think that the only difference between the two eprops is the length. They haven't put a finer pitch on the longer prop to bring the rpm to spec. This isn't a huge issue for me but it's good to know in case you think your motor is down on power. On the plus side, it is light, relatively easy to start if you get the priming spot on, and has a little more poke than the top 80. Throttle response is great and it makes a lovely 2 stroke crackle noise like my old KTM! Steve
  3. I've not heard of any problems but would be interested if there is an issue as I own one!
  4. Just wondering if there is anyone out there that has eaten too many pies lately and is looking for a larger wing? I’m currently flying a 29 Nucleon, and having lost a few kilos (at 68kg), I’m finding it a little slow for me. I can’t afford to buy a wing at the moment so If anyone has a 27 or maybe 25 Nucleon, or possibly a 24 Speedster that they would want to swap, please let me know. My Nucleon is just over 2 years old with about 90 hours on it. Thanks. Steve
  5. Hi Bob. Take a look at the state of your fuel lines – especially the one inside the fuel tank. They are consumable items! I’ve seen jelly substance coming from cheap fuel line inside the tank. Replace all of them with Tygon, or even better Bing Blue Alcohol resistant line. The alcohol in petrol wreaks havoc with old lines, diaphragms, seats etc. Clean carb with carb cleaner and blow through all jets, and holes. Steve
  6. Hi Paul. It's more to do with the classic PAP sag than the motor mounts. Every time you ding the frame on the ground (or even over time with the weight of the motor) the lever action of the motor on the mounts bends the main upright bars. They bend very easily but can also be straightened very easily. With mine, I just need to secure the bottom rear of the frame and pull on the uprights until straight. If you have your motor with you at work I'll show you what happens - I know from experience and chipped props! BTW, I only started landing on my a##e after I sold you my wing and bought that damned Nucleon! Steve
  7. Cheers Pete. Although I've done footdrags whilst deep in the brakes, sometimes to the point where the increased drag requires lots of power to maintain lift. And seen accuracy competitions with people holding brakes down at their waist for prolonged periods, albeit basic 5 and 7 cell canopies. I guess what I'm really curious about is how much brake you can use on a power off landing approach to adjust glide angle without falling out of the sky. Very slowly increasing brake pressure so a steady state is achieved. I suppose I could try it at altitude but I haven't got the kahunas for it! Steve
  8. That's an interesting question. During my skydiving days, one of the first things you would do with a new ram-air canopy is find out where the stall point was by slowly burying the brakes until it waffled around a bit and fell backwards. This was completely safe and the canopies always recovered. In fact, many used to hold the brakes down whilst plummeting towards the ground for a few hundred feet. Also, stalling your average Cessna is a non event as long as you put the nose forward and stop a wing tipping. This isn't something I would like to do on my Nucleon, but it would be really nice to find out where the stall occurs so that it can be avoided. I know it will change with trim settings, turns, etc, but a baseline would be nice. I know it needs a wrap on the brakes to get it fully braked for landing, so I'm assuming that I could bury the brakes quite deeply before it bites??
  9. The manual states 2100 - 2200 rpm, but this is quite close to the point at which the starter pawls engage and make a noise. In practice about 2600 rpm is better and safer from a stalling point, especially if your tick-over is as erratic as mine. Anything over 3000rpm and the clutch starts to engage.
  10. 6 to 7.00pm puts you within last 3 hours of the day, and so it should be getting nice and calm as long as all other weather factors are ok and there is no frontal activity. You may get some odd sea breeze convergence if you live near the coast, though it doesn't usually kick you around too much. Check the Leeds rasp table, I find it very accurate for thermals and surface winds. http://rasp.inn.leedsmet.ac.uk/RASPtabl ... bleGM.html
  11. The "Powered Paragliding Bible" covers just about everything. Steve
  12. Hi all. My wing is up for sale as I've recently bought a Nucleon. See classifieds. Steve
  13. Nope, no element. I've run my Top 80 on the ground without the box. It doesn't half make a racket. I'd stick with the standard box if I were you. Also, if you mean the rubber between the carb and airbox, I think that is a seperate part (at least it is on the Top 80) which should be available on it's own. Steve
  14. I doubt it. The original isn't much of a filter anyway, more of an airbox to reduce induction noise with a gauze over the inlet to keep large particles out. You may even find that the k&n is more restrictive. It'll probably be noisier.
  15. I've got a cheap one made of ripstop, and a pucker one that came with the Nucleon. I prefer the cheap one as it is porous. By keeping the top open it allows air to circulate and take out the dampness that you inevitably get when flying in evening air.
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