Phil_P Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 OK, whatever, no problem, just giving extra info. If it's not relevant, ignore it. My autistic traits kick in sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
learner_driver Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 To provide clarity, all i'm saying is you need a Tinytach model 1C, if you have a Parajet Macro, and hence probably the other models. the wasted bit is less about my nocturnal activities, more about the description of the 1c model. I hope it helps Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I have found a possible cheeper alternative to the tiny tach. It's $40 US for one of these. I am sure if we work on them I could get a better price as well. SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil_P Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 That's just a 'Hobbs' type hour meter though isn't it Simon? No rev counter? Handy if you just want to log engine run time, although they run as long as the ignition circuit is live so if you forget to switch off, it will continue to tot up the hours. It will presumably need a power supply if your motor doesn't have a battery or generator system. PK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantheman Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 One of the mounting lugs on mine snapped off on the last flight, luckily I found it on the post flight check otherwise it would most likely have found it's way into the prop, suspect the heatshield vibrates too much for the Tiny Tach to cope with, may look into relocating or not bothering with using it at all - it was very useful when I had carb/prop problems to diagnose engine RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 One of the mounting lugs on mine snapped off on the last flight, luckily I found it on the post flight check otherwise it would most likely have found it's way into the prop, suspect the heatshield vibrates too much for the Tiny Tach to cope with, may look into relocating or not bothering with using it at all - it was very useful when I had carb/prop problems to diagnose engine RPM. First dibs if your getting rid of it Dan Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Hi. I just received a tiny tach that I want to install in my HE R120 paramotor. One thing I have clear is to wrap the red wire 3 to 4 turns around the spark plug cable. But where do I attach the white cable? a) I was thinking maybe on one of the screws on top of the motor cylinder (those that protrude out of the carbon fibre heat protection over the engine head). Or b) Anywhere on the frame of the paramotor. Mine is made of stainless steel. Can someone clear this up for me. Better still, can someone put pictures of how both wires were installed. In regards to the display unit, I'm thinking of putting it on the accelerator hose close to my hand. Any pictures of how this was installed as well will be very much appreciated. What I have in mind may not be as good as yours. Thanks in advance. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantheman Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 a) is your best bet, that way both the wires are going the same way so it's a tidier and easier cable run. Stick an extra washer under the nut to sandwich your connector. Don't know about mounting the unit itself but the harness mounting that some paramotors use looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanman Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Mounting on the throttle works in most cases but sometimes interference from the ignition circuit running down the kill switch wire can make the tinytach work erratically. try it on the handle but if it doesn't work properly then move it elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 a) is your best bet, that way both the wires are going the same way so it's a tidier and easier cable run. Stick an extra washer under the nut to sandwich your connector. Don't know about mounting the unit itself but the harness mounting that some paramotors use looks good. Thank you Dan. I will follow your advice by the letter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Mounting on the throttle works in most cases but sometimes interference from the ignition circuit running down the kill switch wire can make the tinytach work erratically. try it on the handle but if it doesn't work properly then move it elsewhere. Thank you Fanman. Mine is manual start only, so I'm wondering if that applies to both manual start and electric start. Cheers. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil_P Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Mounting on the throttle works in most cases but sometimes interference from the ignition circuit running down the kill switch wire can make the tinytach work erratically. try it on the handle but if it doesn't work properly then move it elsewhere. Thank you Fanman. Mine is manual start only, so I'm wondering if that applies to both manual start and electric start. Cheers. JC Hi JC, I'm afraid it applies to manual start also, if the kill switch is mounted on your throttle. It is ignition that generates interference that travels up the kill switch wiring, acting a bit like an aerial, and gets into the tachometer head. An alternative is to run screened cable up to your kill switch, something like thin coax antenna wire, or microphone cable. You connect the centre core to the live ignition side, and the screening round the outside to earth (chassis, or battery -ve). There are however loads of folks who don't have a problem with it. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irm750 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 In the tinytach the cable is already a coax type, with the white cable and ring connector being connected to the outer shield braiding. The red wire is the conductor cable which runs down the middle of the coax. I only know this as I carelessly managed to nick the cable when I recently connected it temporarily to my motor during a tuning session and the inner conductor wire got broken. The wire was simple to splice so no harm done. I find for temporary installation that I don't even need to connect the sheild cable to ground as the cable is routed away from any interfering cables and it works fine. Invaluable bit of kit though. Best regards, Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Thank you guys for all that information. It sure helps me a lot. Best Regards. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 I mounted it on my left shoulder looking towards me. So while flying, all I need to do is look to the left to see the revs count on my engine. I will try it with 3 turns next time (I have 4 turns now) as I did not trust the values I saw after about an hour of flying. Cheers. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Hi JC, What is it you are questioning with the readings, do they seem too high. Is your belt tension OK Check http://www.paramotorclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3426 Cheers, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Hi JC,What is it you are questioning with the readings, do they seem too high. Is your belt tension OK Check http://www.paramotorclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3426 Cheers, Alan Yes. They seemed too high. Towards the beginning of the flight, I was reaching around 9000 rpm at full throttle and when I brought down the revs the cound would go down, say to 5000 or less. But towards the end of my flight I noticed a little over 9000 rpm at full throttle, but when I brought down the revs, the count would stay high above 8000 rpm and I expected something like 5000 rpm readout. I didn't give it much importance since I thought I just needed to play with the wounding around the spark plug cable. So since I had 4 turns, I decided to try next time with 3 turns. By the way, I don't have a belt on my paramotor. It is a centrifugal clutch. Cheers. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_k Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 JC, Don't cut the red wire It sounds like you might not have enough signal for the tinytach. If you try 3 turns just leave the wire sticking out. You can then try 5 turns if needed. Cheers, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_catalan Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 JC,Don't cut the red wire It sounds like you might not have enough signal for the tinytach. If you try 3 turns just leave the wire sticking out. You can then try 5 turns if needed. Cheers, Alan Thanks for that info. I already cut the wire after the 4th turn, but I think I left enough for a 5th turn. I won't cut it any further. Cheers. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.