fanman

Thanks Matt, that exactly the info I was after. As I thought, the set up on my wing doesn't allow full trim range which explains why it is so slow. I have an old copy of the manual (which interestingly says you can use speedbar at all areas of trim range!) but it doesn't give dimensions for C and D movement.

Question to all Revolution owners (original, not Revo 2)... When trims are let out to the fastest setting how much extension is there in your C's and your D's compared to A's and B's (these 2 remain the same length)?

I use ALC at altitude regardless of the trim setting as it keeps the reflex which Dudek wings have over the entire trim range. For take off and landing I use the brakes (obviously!) and fly actively. For low level flying on slow trim I use brakes only but if low level on fast trim then I have my hands through the brake toggles but use the ALC balls. This way I still have access to the brakes if the SHTF. I flew my Revo 26 this evening (no tip steering kit fitted as the design is too poor) which really highlighted how much catch up Paramania needs to do with their control systems and quality of the trim system (mine kept slipping on one side). Paramania should take a good long look at the Dudek risers and move with the times. I flew an Ozone Roadster recently and this could benefit as well from the same treatment.

The Nucleon is the only wing I fly that I frequently use full slow for launch in no wind and light winds. It is a beautiful wing for pottering around on full slow and is really efficient in that area. Not quite as efficeient as the Plasma on full fast but nearly. Is your wing definitely set up for low hang points? They are set up for high as default.

Be very careful about following this advice because he hasn't made you aware that what you are doing is illegal. I'm not saying don't do it, just be aware of what you are being guided into doing. Really you should be using at least a radio with 6.25 kHz spacing so you can hit the actual frequency of 446.08125.

Not neccessarily, I have just been doing this sport for a fairly long time. I have 3 motors at the moment (1 low, 1 mid and 1 high hang point) and 6 wings (reflex and non reflex from 16 meters to 41 meters from 4 different manufacturers). I love the variety that I can achieve by trying different wing/motor combos and the fact that I can choose the right kit for that particular day.

We have one already... it's called the RAD Arrow

The long distance Bailey boys in Suffolk use channel 8, CTCSS 10.

Personally I don't think you really need a Monster until you get significantly over 20 stone. My 17 stone mate has a FB Simonini and he never ever uses full power. That is also bearing in mind that the FB variant is detuned from standard! Mishandling the Monster can get you into all sorts of trouble if you don't understand precession!

Just remember that your machine has no forced air cooling (like a Ros or Top80) so you are dependent on the prop to draw cooling air over the fins. This is why the redrive takes the hub to the other side of the crank from the cylinder whereas forced air cooling machines can be more compact by taking the prop shaft straight behind the cylinder. What are you really achieving by running it now rather than waiting for the new prop? I can only think of problems. Another F200 with pulley problems We did try to warn you! The previous owner list doesn't automatically mean it is a good machine!

Both Alan and Dave are spot on but also consider the Kobra Rocco. I tandem using Dudek wings and had to choose between the Synth Cabrio and the Orca. Much as I love the Synth I went for the Orca 41 as the Cabrio is too trike orientated. You really should go for the Synth 34 as it is the best wing of its size out there (although I believe we are just about to get a Nucleon 34).

I do a similar thing but using the Bakrak. Put the machine on the rack facing the 'wrong' way round. It can be started safely on the rack so it is warming up while laying out the wing then strap in and release the teathers. No need to stand up, just walk to wing clip in and go.

The debate that ensued was not about the quality of the customer service but whether some machines need it more than others. I have owned 7 different types of machine from 6 different manufacturers (and flown a further 8 different machines) which has given me a good insight into what makes and engine types are reliable and how much support you will need and are likely to get. Support is important but reliability will dictate whether it is needed or not.

and what other paramotors have you flown?

Yes I've done both mods to 2 WB32's and it works... but they are quite a sensitive carb to set up. As you say, without these mods the 32 runs very rich in the mid range. When sorted it is a very good carb which suffers less from carb icing than the 37.

Macey and Alan, what other paramotors have you owned?

Looks like a form of Mammatus to me.

The post above highlights a VERY important point. Buy a machine that does not need that excellent customer service in the first place. IMO one of the manufacturers listed earlier offers 'excellent' customer service because you'll need it.

..."Ed and I have just had a discussion as to why both our PAP F200's only have 1 loop at the back of our harness attached..." according to the OP.

Ah I see... but we wouldn't have known what you meant without the explanation!

You're going to have to explain. Is there something underlying here?

I think you're exactly right. The problem is that it is controlled by the BMAA, most of whom haven't a clue fow to fly our wings. The 'training' is observed solo flying followed by a 'test' involving the examiner asking the student to perform certain maneuvres while he watches from the ground. I have done some trike flying overseas so have a resonable idea about what is involved here. People tend to think that trike flying will make life easy but it doesn't because there is no ability to stabilise the wing by stepping sideways during the launch. Also the only realistic way to launch the wing is to forward launch with a large amount of power regardless of what the wind strength is. Foot launch is a far nicer way to fly IMO.

Go to Paul Mahony in Laragne, France.

Although replacing the line is never going to be a wrong answer, it is quite possible to repair the line as long as you can satisfy yourself there is no damage to the inner core. I bought a wing second hand for a friend last year which showed 2 areas of sheathing damage due to prop contact. The kevlar inner was fine so we restretched the sheath and bonded it by use of a flame from a cigarette lighter. It is down to your own judgement at the end of the day.

There's a guy in Cambridge (IIRC his name is Chris) who can supervise the required solo flying and set you the tests. Details available from the BMAA.