tomposh101

CV

I could very well be interested. I got onto the list for the BHPA one a while back but they knocked quite a few of us off as the BHPA CFIs kicked up a fuss and said that they had priority. In the end they came grovelling back for £3k as the uptake was low but by which time the BHPA was in my rear view mirror. Please keep me informed.

that is such a perpetuating post... let sleeping dogs lie down. all the best.

OK Steve i'll take your sentiments on board. I also hold a PPL(JAR) and am of course not going to seriously jeapordise that for any kind of public display/stunt or bring the sport in to disrepute.

Thanks Steve, Alan and Dan, Steve - I am able to launch 30 degrees off to the wind so most wind directions are feasible. Alan+Dan - the continental perspective is definately appreciated. I'll keep you posted.

I'm looking at getting back in to paramotoring over the winter after a two year break and have access to a Bailey. I have relocated to the 'middle of no where' on the derbyshire/warwickshire border and as such have no fields that I know the farmer.. One of the roads that leads out of my village has an unmanned level crossing with a gate that has to be opened onto the railroad (call box next to it) and a little further along is gated either end (it is 3.5miles long) as the fields have no hedgerows to obsure the view, it is just open countryside. As 99.9% of people are put off from using this road it probably only gets used by the two farms off it and the gas board (small station about 1/4 the way along, never seen anybodt in it ). My launches are swift and if I can see for miles around and nobody would see me would I be doing any harm or breaking any laws ??

Is there any market for a paramotor that is less bulky and produces considerably less thrust than conventional machines. I was thinking in the order of 15kg of thrust. Basically enough to provide level flight to next thermal and height top-ups when sink rate is low. I flew a PAP Top 80 a while back and had the most fun using minimum power for level flight and concluded it doesn't take much to stay up. They would be less costly to manufacture too as the forces on the prop/components would be practically nothing compared to something kicking out x2 or x4 that amount. A quarter and sixteneenth respectively! Plastic prop/chainsaw engine ?? If there was one out there that came very close to the feel of a paragliding harness I would buy it and I think it would open up a new market to boot. Any thoughts/experience

Hello v23nb, I'm in Shropshire so a little far away, thanks He did mention that it was screwdriver damage so you are closer to the mark than I am. It is a 24mm WG8 carb. Cheers.

Thanks guys so far. I've had a very experienced friend look at the PAP now and he says that one of the valves on the main jets in the carb has been scored (on the brass?) by something like a screwdriver. He says it is only hair line but means that at idle this now allows the mixture to be too rich which causes the engine to cut out on idle but not when the throttles been opened up. Does this sound right? He reckons it would be easier just to replace the carb and I have seen on sky dragons website that retail at over £150 for the Walbro (that mine is) or there is one for £75 on the same site that does not appear to be branded. Any body who could recommend a Carb for my PAP? Thank you so far.

Thanks for replying so quickly Pete It's more the engine than the prop.. the power delivery is smooth up to 9600rpm then if I hold the throttle fully open it goes all jelly belly with the engine dropping power, gaining a little more (always declining on each cycle) until finally it cuts out after 5-10 seconds. The filter is spotless, as are the jets now. Cheers

I'm hoping that someone more technically minded than me or who has experienced the same problem as me can help I have a PAP Top 80 paramotor and the engine cuts out when it is rolled on its cage one way (about 20 degrees) and not the other. This is a simulated throwing it over my shoulder move as if to place it on my back where the problmes lie as I like to idle it before putting on. My temporary fix is putting it over the opposite shoulder first (so that it does not tilt the way that it cuts off). Also when applying full throttle the prop rough runs and the power declines (I have checked the display and this seems to happen over 9600rpm so I am guessing it is a safety to stop the engine over reving, it is a lighter prop than the original only because its a cheap replacement to the one I had before). Things I have done so far (that improved the tick over substantially.. 1) Cleaned the jets and the carb 2) Cleaned the bore (there was a quarter of a cotton buds worth of swarf in the jets and bore together ) 3) Checked the oil level in the clutch. (the bleed thingy does seem to excrete rather a lot of oil). That is the top of my technical experience.. please help me from here