Blackburn Mark

simonini mini2 is the engine only and its hard to see the engine in those photos. It is not the simonini mini2 EVO as that has fan type heatsink head one it. The mini2+ in the link I sent has a different air filter but that could be splitting hairs....?

If you make mistakes, your battery might have a shorter life than is necessary. Open wet lead acid batteries can typically take more abusive charge voltages/current because it is easy to top them up when they inevitably gas, sealed wet lead batteries cannot be topped up and Gel batteries can form permanent bubbles in the gel if charged with higher voltages/higher current. A SLOWER longer charge over a fast short charge is less harsh on lead acid batteries.... All three types are likely to read around 12.6v when fully charged (after they have sat idle for a few hours) If you are charging with a programmable RC charger..... both of mine allow me to set max current and voltage. IF I was in your position, I would limit the current to 2.0A 14.0v and make sure it didn't get too warm during charging... if it gets warmer than I am comfortable with, I would drop the current for a slower longer charge (I have the IMax B6 charger and Turnigy Accucell 6 // both very similar chargers) BUT, that is what I would do... Others might have better ideas

I'm stumped on this connector, I have seen them before but cant identify.... you could cut the heat-shrink off to see if there is any ID markings on it or you could charge it fitted to the motor using the blue pug you showed showed us in another thread (after checking it is in the battery circuit) Assuming it is a sealed gel battery, a charger with a gel setting.... <14v seems to be a safe voltage for gel (up to 14.8v on wet lead batteries) but double check

To my way of thinking, bugger off with your inviting legislation, some of us can only just afford the sport as it is!

Errrr.... Google https://www.custom-air.co.uk/Custom_Air_Paramotors/paramotor_engine_files.html This will not give you a definitive answer but might confirm a basic ID of your engine... Then cross reference with any info you can find like PDF manuals (download one for the simonini mini2) see how many models there are and isolate yours. You could post an image here and you may get confirmation from another owner.

You might look into it before you conclude... Air law or rules do indeed apply to paramotors / sub 70kg flight. There are some gray arias that fall into none legal categories that are often covered by decency, common sense or polite agreement such as nature / spotting arias etc. We may drift towards a position where there is nothing left we can fly over if ONE demographic gets its own way to the detriment of all other demographics. I don't want or expect birders not to be protective, or game shooters, ramblers.... There are many who like to make use of the countryside and the airspace above it and in the most part, we get along just fine

I cant help with any direct experience of either but you are not getting any joy form others so ill rattle your cage All things being equal, I would go for the one with easiest to acquire spares reasonably cheaply and the easiest to repair frame would get my attention as well. The Atom looks and sounds great and by all accounts, is "smooth"... But being a skinflint, the Top 80 might win the day for me had it not been for the carbon.... I can weld aluminum and get myself back into the air quickly with an aluminum frame but I have never bent a frame or blown a prop in a fall/crash (yet) so it may be false economy... but I cant shake it That might be intrinsic to the crank-web balance choices and overall mass distribution... It would seem in your case, the axis of toque reaction when its in full wave resonance is not centered between the two risers (mine isn't either Bailey V2).... lets say you moved the fuel tank 100mm further up into the frame, it would still happen but at a different RPM and its center of action would likely change. Personally, my worst resonant vibration is away from cruse RPM, I can live with it.... if it was bang on cruse RPM, I would be pretty unhappy and looking at ways to stop it.

You need to be carful here! 5 Degrees of pitch seemed too shallow for such a powerful motor so I double checked on the helix website: H30F 1,30m L-M-05-2 (this has 5 degrees of pitch and may work but like a mountain bike stuck in a low gear) H30F 1,30m L-M-07-2 (This one has 7 degrees of pitch and seems to be the one listed as compatible with your motor/re-drive setup) Pitch is like gears on a propeller and is very important. The wing shape plays a part (a fat profile or under camber will need less pitch than a thin profile but not a concern from our position as we are allowing the manufacturer to do the math's) All things being equal, if your pitch is too high, the motor will bog down before the propeller and motor can get to max power. If the pitch is too low, the motor will hit its max RPM before the propeller is biting into the air properly. Think of riding a mountain bike... first gear is wasted on flat tarmac, your legs will going like crazy and you will only be doing 5mph. Top gear is useless going up a steep hill.... a fixed pitch propeller gives us one "gear" choice so we must chose wisely All the work is usually done for you and it would seem that for a helix, H30F 1,30m L-M-07-2 is a good match to your particular motor/re-drive pair. You don't NEED to know how all this works but having a rudimentary grasp of the fundamentals may have allowed me to catch an error in your propeller choice so its not always wasted... especially on those of us who HATE splashing £350 Having said that, I am trying to help but errors are easy to make so take my advice for what it is... RUDIMENTERY... double check everything!

H = Helix 30= 30kw(max power) F= fixed pitch (as apposed to adjustable) 1.3 = diameter L= Left hand rotation (counter clockwise) M = profile shape (wing shape) 05= pitch (5 degrees) 2= blade count Set 8 is in reference to the mold it came out of I think

Yea, its a bit strange.... I assumed admin were updating something then noticed some of the changes are recurring. Is it something we ought to be concerned about?

I was thinking about this when I launched yesterday: It was 6mph+ on the surface gusting to maybe 12mph.... cold air and cumulus... I wasn't super confident they where good conditions for a nice chilled flight. (it was pretty turbulent all the way to cloud base // not much fun) I chose to set up and warm the motor... knocked the motor off to ground handle (to ascertain I could handle the gusts) When you ground handle with the motor off, you have less to think about which makes a massive difference in your ability to process what is occurring. Don't let it overshoot // don't let it drop back // Keep it straight // Your mind is doing circuits around a few items in quick succession... in this mode, you are missing throttle control the run and all the launch concerns/stress. Furthermore, without the motor running, there is less jeopardy so you are more relaxed. Very often, you will reach a point in this process where you will think "Shit, if the motor was running I would simply hit the throttle, run and launch"..... Easy.... I think it is too easy to focus on the launch... we obsess over getting airborne. Strictly cut your process into two... (everything before hitting the throttle and everything after) You want to GROUND HANDLE until that moment comes where IF the motor was running, you would easily launch only this time, the motor IS running "I'm going flying"..... No your not, your are going ground handling with the motor running and you MIGHT hit the throttle

These are things well worth considering.... I think, from what I can see, there is now less chance of one of those base tubes departing and puncturing a kidney

Sounds good to me.

Splendid Don't flap if you are getting a bit lost Matthew... keep chipping away until it makes sense to you. I and I suspect Pete S or anyone else will be cautious of saying "Buy this one" because errors are easy to make and we don't want to carry that weight

No that's the reduction. Eight one down "Mini2" 1 to "2.42" reduction. So if what Pete S says is correct, you are good to go but double check Make sure you have the "Mini2" or confirm the hole pattern (mounting bolt pattern)

That's pretty impressive... I guess they are a tad better at earning their premium prices than I though

I know the feeling... Its a lot of work though, it would almost be quicker to build a simple copy machine than carve by hand!

That might be a winner and is easy to check

"130" is very likely to be a reference to diameter as in 130cm. The other info seems abstract or propriety lingo....? Helix are the only manufacturer in have used that print easily decipherable language on their propellers. Measure the diameters of the pullies and divide the larger by the smaller (200mm divided by 50mm = 4 to 1 ratio or 4-1) If it had gears you would divide the tooth count)

What are they for?

Buzzin Gutted with the weather this weekend.... Its a cruel sport.

That was you wasn't it? Three of us flying SW over Stonyhurst college towards Ribchester

Haha! You pealed off at Ribchester I think we may have drawn you in a little deep... I was buzzed up when I saw the third glider (you) I was struggling to climb above cloud base and you kept coming and sticking your neck out That was pretty ballsy! Don't ever hesitate to peal off for a buttie and a chill!

Edisford bridge Do we bloody know each other!!?

Accrington... just down the road a tad. Are you up north?