Vauxscott

I cant remember if the change from 19 to 20 covered the change to internal pulse line or not, and the airbox mounting arrangement is different. There may be other small differences but those are the main ones.

Yes you can. If you buy new from vitto it comes with the new bracket and all the fittings to fit straight on an MY19.

Hillend is a PG site, theres already a club which fly from there. Lanarkshire and Lothian soaring club, they negotiated the arrangement with edinburgh ATC. I wouldnt consider flying a paramotor there without consulting them first, would be easy to attract a complaint and ruin it for them. Its a very sensitive site and not really suited to PPG. Scott.

Torque compensation (bent arms) would be the wrong way going from a belt drive to a gear drive motor.

Ive had a look at whats on mine and its 6mm tygon from the tank to the filter, then the last bit is 4mm (helps stop the bubbles) The smaller stuff is a nightmare to get over the filter barb but it does go eventually. Scott.

I've just fitted a priming bulb to mine. No more caveman blow tube. To prime i just hold down the carb lever and give the bulb a wee squeeze until the air in the line clears. It doesn't have anything to do with pop off as you are manually opening the diaphragm by pressing the lever. The reason that lever is there is to stop you pressing too much and damaging the spring behind the diaphragm. One or two pulls and it starts. I used a Polini priming bulb. (probably the only decent thing Polini make.) As for your 8mm dia fuel line, is that internal diameter? Id say thats far too big. The diaphragm pump in the carburettor wont be able to pull the fuel up that, get some smaller tygon line on there, 4mm.

Most of these starters we use are based on scooter starters and have a range of 10v to 20v, as long as you stay within that range you'd be fine. Have a look at your starting relay, it will state a max current rating and possibly a voltage too, that will be your limiting factor. With Lithium batteries the actual voltage of a charged pack can be a good bit more than the nominal voltage, but with 4 cells you are safely within the range. Scott.

Yep, you are correct. Engineering is a compromise, and the compromise here is strength against weight. Light as possible but strong enough to take normal loads. Yes if you whack a prop on the ground it may break, but that's not what its designed for...

Don't use a Lithium Polymer battery with a charging system designed for nicads, you will have a battery fire. Ive been using Lipo batteries for years in RC models, they require very specific charging conditions. I have a Bailey 4 stroke which I use a 4 cell 2200mah Lipo as the starter battery, I have disabled the charging circuit and charge it when its removed from the motor. I can get over 40 starts from it between charges. A 4 cell Lipo is 14.8V minimum and will start your motor without any problems. Is that a possible solution for you?

Great views! That railway line looks really close to the edge.

MDMT, Any further thoughts on the route you will take with your motor? We are all waiting with baited breath!! Scott.

My thoughts too. As an engineer myself it doesn't sit well with me at all, so easily fixed and reliability of these engines would be so much better than it already is!

Blackburn Mark, here is a pic of the crappy finishing in my Bailey casings. This is the inlet to the pump and shows large burrs on the end of the drilling, most of the drillings were like this. My theory is one of these larger bits broke off and went through the pump causing the failure my motor suffered... 5 minutes with a deburring tool and some files sorted all these out. I wonder what other cases look like? Scott.

It wasn't able to breath enough through the vent and was actually pushing oil out of the cylinder base and head gasket. Sounds like you've gone way more in depth than I have! I dropped the battery and the recharge system, fitted a 3S 2200Mah lithium battery on saving a couple of kgs. Gets over 40 starts before needing a recharge (off engine). Id like to get hold of a 232cc kit (67mm) and a stroker crank and make a monster 4 stroke...Possible on paper? Scott.

Yeah it was a standard size one that's fitted. I will say though that I'm not impressed with the machining Bailey do on the engine casings they make. I found a few large bits of swarf/Burrs on the ends of oilway drillings.I have pics of these and will post them if I can work out how to. The lack of finishing is not good engineering practice. I think one of these broke off, went into the pump and caused the failure my motor suffered. I'm not sure how the V5 is set up but the V3 has 3 filters, the serviceable Honda one, another mesh cup shaped one you cant get to and a magnet which sits in the oil which you also cant get to. Having 2 filter/trapping methods which cant be serviced without complete strip down just doesn't seem like good engineering to me... When I rebuilt mine I removed those extra filters and just have the Honda one now, its the finest mesh of the set and gets changed every 10 hours anyway. One other thing, when I fitted the new piston on initial runs I was getting excess crankcase pressure and it was causing oil leaks. After a leakdown test pointed to ring damage I stripped it again and found I had fitted the first compression ring upside down. Id read online that the markings face down where in fact the markings face up, making the bevel (really hard to see) face the wrong way. All good now. MDMT, I hope you go for a rebuild yourself. Please post pics of your progress and we will all try to learn at the same time! Scott.

I think the reason Bailey recalled the early ones for replacement cranks was due to the pin slipping. Welding it would be a good idea and is what I did to mine. It is important to re true it and balance it again after, you'd be surprised by the amount it moves! Mine had an oil pump failure and ran the bearings, also damaging the piston and cylinder. I did notice some fairly heavy fretting damage on the crank cooling fan taper, enough to render it scrap even without the bearing damage. Scott.

Ive just had to do a rebuild on a v3 180. New crank, rod, piston and cylinder.The parts are available for lots of combinations. Just measure what you have and order accordingly. be wary of import tax dues when ordering from abroad, my Taida bits were more expensive than they needed to be... Bailey will help with gaskets ect, sorted me out quickly. 65mm bits (V5) seem way more expensive than 63mm bits though (v3) especially in Taida flavour, over £700 as opposed to £130 for the V3 bits. Scott.

There was a while ago but they seem to have disappeared. I have bought parts from Aerocorsair in the US, great service and fast delivery. My first motor was a M25y in a Blackhawk frame, loads of power (moster 185 level) did loads of hours on it before selling it on. http://www.aerocorsair.com/index.html Scott.

Cant wait to hear all about this adventure, good luck, stay safe and have fun!!

I've recently gone from a Speedster 1 to a Hadron XX. I'm a 300+ hour pilot but don't consider myself an acro pilot. I found the step fairly large but if you give the wing the respect it deserves its not a scary thing to fly. You have to be extremely proficient in ground handling with this wing though, its very twitchy on the ground and can be difficult to launch. Plenty good pilots have caught lines in the prop with this wing! For XC it is an excellent choice, due to the speed and efficiency. Ive flown mine in very rough air and I didn't see as much as a tip come in. I did get chucked around a bit more than I would on the speedster though and active flying is a must. Everyone develops at different speeds, but I think if you feel the XX is "forcing on" your development then it is not the right wing for you. I found the Speedster to be pretty slow, there are much better options available for XC. Scott.

Thanks for the replies! Mark, I know someone who has one of your meters, very impressive piece of equipment. PM sent.

Has anyone had experience using a fuel level indicator? I fly a Zenith with a Moster, and anything below 3-4ltr fuel its impossible to see how much fuel you have due to the shape of the zenith tank, a mirror doesn't really cut it. Ive actually run out on final approach once! Longer XC flights are nervous "do I have enough fuel" events due to the Moster having a large variation in fuel use, depending on trimmer use ect. I regularly fly for 2 hours plus, so an accurate fuel gauge would be a massive bonus for me! Scott.

Simon, how did the testing go with these? Scott.

Hi Eddie, I used your contact form on the website, could be an issue there? Ill email you direct. sales@microavionics.co.uk Id like an Icom, but I already have the Dittel, and its a great radio, just a bit weighty... Scott

Anyone fly with a Dittel FSG5 radio? I have one of these really high quality radios and Id like to fly with it. Id like to use it with my micro avionics headset, still waiting on a reply from Eddie about an adapter lead. Anyone else using one? Scott.