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Vauxscott last won the day on January 4 2017

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About Vauxscott

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  1. Hillend is a PG site, theres already a club which fly from there. Lanarkshire and Lothian soaring club, they negotiated the arrangement with edinburgh ATC. I wouldnt consider flying a paramotor there without consulting them first, would be easy to attract a complaint and ruin it for them. Its a very sensitive site and not really suited to PPG. Scott.
  2. Torque compensation (bent arms) would be the wrong way going from a belt drive to a gear drive motor.
  3. Ive had a look at whats on mine and its 6mm tygon from the tank to the filter, then the last bit is 4mm (helps stop the bubbles) The smaller stuff is a nightmare to get over the filter barb but it does go eventually. Scott.
  4. I've just fitted a priming bulb to mine. No more caveman blow tube. To prime i just hold down the carb lever and give the bulb a wee squeeze until the air in the line clears. It doesn't have anything to do with pop off as you are manually opening the diaphragm by pressing the lever. The reason that lever is there is to stop you pressing too much and damaging the spring behind the diaphragm. One or two pulls and it starts. I used a Polini priming bulb. (probably the only decent thing Polini make.) As for your 8mm dia fuel line, is that internal diameter? Id say thats far to
  5. Most of these starters we use are based on scooter starters and have a range of 10v to 20v, as long as you stay within that range you'd be fine. Have a look at your starting relay, it will state a max current rating and possibly a voltage too, that will be your limiting factor. With Lithium batteries the actual voltage of a charged pack can be a good bit more than the nominal voltage, but with 4 cells you are safely within the range. Scott.
  6. Yep, you are correct. Engineering is a compromise, and the compromise here is strength against weight. Light as possible but strong enough to take normal loads. Yes if you whack a prop on the ground it may break, but that's not what its designed for...
  7. Don't use a Lithium Polymer battery with a charging system designed for nicads, you will have a battery fire. Ive been using Lipo batteries for years in RC models, they require very specific charging conditions. I have a Bailey 4 stroke which I use a 4 cell 2200mah Lipo as the starter battery, I have disabled the charging circuit and charge it when its removed from the motor. I can get over 40 starts from it between charges. A 4 cell Lipo is 14.8V minimum and will start your motor without any problems. Is that a possible solution for you?
  8. Great views! That railway line looks really close to the edge.
  9. MDMT, Any further thoughts on the route you will take with your motor? We are all waiting with baited breath!! Scott.
  10. My thoughts too. As an engineer myself it doesn't sit well with me at all, so easily fixed and reliability of these engines would be so much better than it already is!
  11. Blackburn Mark, here is a pic of the crappy finishing in my Bailey casings. This is the inlet to the pump and shows large burrs on the end of the drilling, most of the drillings were like this. My theory is one of these larger bits broke off and went through the pump causing the failure my motor suffered... 5 minutes with a deburring tool and some files sorted all these out. I wonder what other cases look like? Scott.
  12. It wasn't able to breath enough through the vent and was actually pushing oil out of the cylinder base and head gasket. Sounds like you've gone way more in depth than I have! I dropped the battery and the recharge system, fitted a 3S 2200Mah lithium battery on saving a couple of kgs. Gets over 40 starts before needing a recharge (off engine). Id like to get hold of a 232cc kit (67mm) and a stroker crank and make a monster 4 stroke...Possible on paper? Scott.
  13. Yeah it was a standard size one that's fitted. I will say though that I'm not impressed with the machining Bailey do on the engine casings they make. I found a few large bits of swarf/Burrs on the ends of oilway drillings.I have pics of these and will post them if I can work out how to. The lack of finishing is not good engineering practice. I think one of these broke off, went into the pump and caused the failure my motor suffered. I'm not sure how the V5 is set up but the V3 has 3 filters, the serviceable Honda one, another mesh cup shaped one you cant get to and a magnet which sit
  14. I think the reason Bailey recalled the early ones for replacement cranks was due to the pin slipping. Welding it would be a good idea and is what I did to mine. It is important to re true it and balance it again after, you'd be surprised by the amount it moves! Mine had an oil pump failure and ran the bearings, also damaging the piston and cylinder. I did notice some fairly heavy fretting damage on the crank cooling fan taper, enough to render it scrap even without the bearing damage. Scott.
  15. Ive just had to do a rebuild on a v3 180. New crank, rod, piston and cylinder.The parts are available for lots of combinations. Just measure what you have and order accordingly. be wary of import tax dues when ordering from abroad, my Taida bits were more expensive than they needed to be... Bailey will help with gaskets ect, sorted me out quickly. 65mm bits (V5) seem way more expensive than 63mm bits though (v3) especially in Taida flavour, over £700 as opposed to £130 for the V3 bits. Scott.
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