steelmesh

They could probably talk out of legal issues by saying they had engine problems

Hopefully the belt slipped instead of shearing the key!

Very cool Andy! For the rear axles, is that a flexible material to act like a suspension? Or do those balloons do a good job soaking up the earth?

Agree with toploader, fuel leaking from a float carb is related to the needle valve (valve, seat, float arm, float, shaft, etc).

I have a low hours Top 80, it has mad compression. With the prop off, the first time I pulled on the starter to start it, I lifted the whole motor up. I have to put my foot on the frame and hold the hoop with the other hand. On my back starting it, if I pull outwards too much it will nearly flip the motor over my back (pulling it over my head). I must use both hands to start it on my back. However, I don't have a decompression valve.

I have a dudek and the manual says use a soft sponge and water, do not use chemicals or alcohol as they can damage the fabric. I used warm water and paper towel, unfortunately it was taking too much effort so I didn't keep going. I think that stain was there when I got the wing last summer (used), so it may bode well to clean it asap.

Yup polycarbonate is very tough stuff, it's what bullet resistant glass is made of and also acceptable for use on racecars to replace glass.

The paramotor dry weight is 48 lbs (21.8 kg). 4mm thick polycarbonate (lexan) back support: Custom pull starter pulley bracket: Custom fuel bulkhead I made sealed with fuel resistant sealer permaseal. The tank vent is filtered with a 1-way valve (dirt bike tank breather): Primer bulb and lightweight airbox mounting system lol:

They said the sky is falling though, won't you be in the sky while it's falling? Seems dangerous.

A hang check is in my future indeed! I picked up some wood and dreaming up a design. I've got an AC TIG in my garage; and with that comes filler rod which comes in handy for various things...like a choke actuator on a walbro

Finally assembled this pile of parts. I have no prior experience with paramotors, however I am an engineer/mechanic/technician/machinist/fabricator. I don't want to pretend to know it all, sadly I don't, so part of the reason I'm posting is to see if I did it wrong (I'm embarrassed to label myself an engineer with that, because engineers know it all). At first I was concerned with taking on this project, but after seeing many non-mechanic amateurs wrenching on their paramotors not dying, I moved forward with this diy build. I decided to purchase a frame because I do not have a good understanding of paramotor geometry. Technically I didn't build this, more like assembled it. Engine: Top 80 w/ vittorazi throttle Frame: Skycruiser Simple Aluminum Harness: APCO SLT high hang Southwest Top 80 throttle linkage mod (L-bracket). I could not believe Top 80 / Miniplane will run the cable through that metal hole at 90 degree angle, I could not sleep at night: Choke Linkage, 3/32" steel filler rod: Choke OFF: Choke ON: CHT sensor display: Throttle with RPM gage: Kuntzleman SC103 strobe (meets FAR 103 requirement), custom mount (aluminium split collar I tig welded to): The seat bottom has 3 inches / 75mm worth of impact foam: Waiting on the pull starter pulley (looks lost in the mail). I will follow up with fuel system pictures and an overall mass. See page 21 for comments on the foam I used: https://web.wpi.edu/Pubs/E-project/Available/E-project-042710-200525/unrestricted/Final_MQP_FSAE_Racecar_Crash_Protection.pdf

Check all the lines are free, as in something could be pulling to that side causing the wing to always turn. Otherwise it may be changing wind conditions, are you in an area without many obstructions? When I started I went to parks and the local school football field and it was so difficult then once I started practicing at an air field and another large field things got way easier and more consistent.

With enough time and money anything is possible! Note: I'm approaching this 4T dream engine as a Moster killer. I'm having a tough time getting an idea of what HP we're talking about with the GY6, also what is the mass? I see the performance part dealers selling upgrades, but haven't seen an expected HP rating. I found here-say source that claims 14hp at 12,000 rpms. The predator/honda clone scene looks a lot more supported, a lot more HP numbers to reference and even vendors are providing HP potential with their Stage kits, like nrracing.com claiming 20+hp with their Stage 4 kit. Also, I can't see a full race engine build designed for the street able to handle sustained high RPM like a boating or aviation application. Rebuild hours should exceed that of a 2T, this should be one of the benefits of a 4T engine over a 2T.

Also another angle looking at a factory "race" dirtbike, a 19' CR250F makes 42 hp out of 250cc, but the engine unit weighs maybe 60 lbs (28kg) probably because that includes the gearbox. Imagine if they light-weighted this engine and de-tuned it 20%, they could get it under 30lbs (14kg) with over 30 hp. We just need to get Honda leadership into paramotors, but I reckon Yamaha would be more open to the idea though

This is an unintuitive characteristic. Is it because the Tachometer signal wire is in parallel with the kill-switch wire, as in the Tiny Tach is mounted at the hand-throttle?