Hamishdylan

I had a look at the Blazewear website and they no longer sell the X1 liners. They have a new product - Active glove liners, which now have doubled-up battery packs per glove. https://www.blazewear.com/shop/heated-gloves-and-liners/heated-active-glove-liners-black-kit.html Anyone tried the new versions and got any comments?

Try Flybubble for Icaro visors; I got mine from them, along with the necessary fitting kit. But how to gauge the right size, curvature etc? Big scaredycat type safety warning: I'd be very reluctant to do anything which might change the structural integrity of a helmet, such as drilling holes or gluing on fittings. I seem to recall a thread on here somewhere where a guy added a visor but ended up with bolts going through the helmet shell and ending up very close to his head. If your luck is anything like mine, I know that if I ever banged my head it would be exactly over the spot where the bolts were. Result: instant Boris Karloff impression...or worse. Anyway, 'you pays your money, you makes your choice' - good luck

Hi Shorehambeach, At risk of giving a lesson in sucking eggs, I'd just be cautious when first using a BBQ cover over your motor when travelling. There is quite a lot of your motor in the over-the-roof airflow and the drag from a waterproof cover will be considerable, putting a potentially large load on the straps and generating a pivot action; whilst the straps may well hold, the strain on your tailgate where the hooks attach could cause your tailgate to get all bent out of shape. If you have a strap or hook failure then it would probably be quite emotional... When I first used a waterproof cover (garden table cover - £8 Lidl) it flapped around like a mad thing over 40 mph, even though I had really cinched it in tight with straps and bungee. The best solution I have found is to put the waterproof cover on and secure it, and then throw an elasticated cargo net over the whole thing (Lidl again - other retailers are available) and this stops the wind teasing out pockets of loose material which act like drogue chutes. (The reason for my caution is based on a very fast journey across France in a Ford Sierra Cosworth many moons ago. We had a large Thule roofbox secured to the gutter rails. At 100 mph + the steering became light (aerofoil action from the roofbox!) and the fuel consumption went up exponentially, but we pressed on and made the ferry with moments to spare, although the Cossie was ticking and clanking like an old tank as it cooled down. Back in England, driving through the inevitable rain which awaited us, water started to come in through the tops of the doors - we had managed to distort the roof panel due to the lift generated by the roofbox at high speed. The roofbox could cope but the body panels couldn't - quite an expensive lesson to learn!

Hi Mark, Well done for completing your power conversion (I trained with Axis and always recommend Steve and his team). Trying to find the money for this sport is never going to be easy but it is worth it. Personally I would think a better chance of buying non-lethal second hand kit would be through a club rather than Ebay but people do occasionally find these amazing deals which prove us wrong. New kit comes with full provenance and support of the retailer and in one's early months in this sport, the reassurance this brings is worth a great deal. If you buy second hand then you would be wise to factor in costs for getting your kit examined/serviced professionally - you might find out that you have bought a lemon but at least you won't be flying on dangerous kit. My final point would be that as soon as you have your own kit, you will be out there flying your @rse off at every opportunity; very little likelihood of it sitting in the back of your garage gathering dust. Even if the initial outlay is quite steep, the more you fly the cheaper your hourly rate becomes and it must still be the cheapest form of aviation available.

I obtained my FRTOL In 1980 and spoke with CAA last year to see if it was still valid. The qualification is 'for life' but the certificate needed to be renewed in order to comply with SERA etc. It is free of charge, just use the right form from the CAA website. There was one 'gotcha' - for an older qualification, you now have to prove that you can speak English (despite having served in the RAF for over 30 years)! This can be certified by an English language school, or an RT examiner - the CFI of my local flying school had a chat and signed me off free of charge, although I made a donation to the local air ambulance appeal. I now have the current certificate - a bit of an admin faff but no real costs apart from a bit of time and effort.

Thanks - very interesting!

Could you share a link for the Bluetooth connector/adaptor which connects to the Microavionics headset please?

Hi Jack, I fly an AC130 with Microavionics headset, used with 2m or airband radios. I did have a small interference problem but that was mainly due to the location of the radio, plus the length of the headset cable transferring interference from strobe to the audio circuit. I resolved these by relocating the radio to the front of my body (to get a bit of shielding) and by adding an rf choke (ferrite bead) to the strobe wire and the audio lead. The motor didn't prove to be the source of the problem; it was the location of my radio and the wiring circuit of my strobe. The ferrite chokes are only a couple of quid each from Ebay and they did the business. Perhaps you might try different mounting positions for your radio?

Hi Greg, Just clarifying your query about helmets with headsets. The Icaro helmets are designed to be worn with no headset underneath the helmet; you can add 'ear shell' / Peltor earcups but only when these are directly mounted on the helmet - this is to do with the shape of the helmet liner and the strap arrangement. The microavionics helmet is designed to be worn with a headset underneath; they have different webbing arrangements so that you put the microavionics headset on first and then fasten their compatible helmet over the top. So it is horses for courses really, you pays your money and you makes your choice. I'd second the thumbs up about the visor too. I have a half face visor on the Solar X, which is enough to keep bugs and drafts from making your eyes water, but still with enough airflow to ensure you never mist up, even in very cold weather. A buff over the lower part of the face is enough to keep me warm, although a splendidly large Biggles moustache might be a little warmer, if not more aerodynamic! I generally fly with a radio connected so don't worry about the lead; I've never found it a matter for concern. When doing engine tests before flight I just tuck the cable into the neck of my jacket. It is long enough that when put under a layer of clothing it stays put, so no concerns that it will find its way back into the prop. Finally we all have different shaped heads, not just different circumferences. Its worth trying different types on if possible - some makes are quite round whilst others are more oval -front to back. Try borrowing a mate's helmet and wear it for at least an hour to see how you will get on, most suppliers will not be keen on accepting a returned helmet because obviously it is safety equipment and they won't be able to vouch that it hasn't been knocked about.

Count me in for the over 55's 'biffs to the skies' charity expedition. Ground crew also needs to gather up the walking sticks, zimmer frames etc after take off and then meet us on the landing zone, along with flasks of Bovril and tartan rugs to tuck us up ready for naps....

Hi Greg, I've got a Micro Avionics MP001A fitted to an Icaro SolarX helmet and I get on with it very well indeed. I provided the new helmet to Eddie at Micro Avionics and he did the installation. I've got dual cable connection, so I can connect to airband, 2m, phone, boogie box in any combination. It isn't ANR but with the peltor earcups with gel seals, I'm very pleased with the level of noise reduction. Comms are crystal clear. Downside is that there is a physical cable(s) coming off the helmet, not a biggie, plus side is that there is absolutely no faff with pairing devices etc. Good fit, very comfortable even with extended wear. No complaints - suits me sir!

Sorry - unable to upload more files, even smal ones. I would have shown you how the AC 130 ultra fits in but you will just have to use your imagination!

A bit more effort and expense than a straight rack, so I don't know if this qualifies...? I took a bog standard Ifor Williams box trailer and converted it into a 'stealth camper' to haul my motor in the dry and also have a place to live whilst I was on the road. The 'mobile man cave' has turned out quite well, with the paramotor well secured using ratchet straps to some cargo tracks I've secured to the floor. Couple more photos to follow...

You might want to consider the AC Ultra 130 - I fly one with electric start and clutch and it is certainly light,powerful and suitable for a bloke up to 85kg. Not sure you will be able to find a new one though?

I always carry a hook knife in the top layer of my clothing, not for use in the air (don't think you will ever have the luxury of enough time in an emergency) but for use if entangled in a tree, in case of having wound a line into the prop on a failed launch and finding yourself trused up like or a chicken, or most urgently if you or someone else has a line around their throat and is being choked. I used to carry a hook knife like allrightscud when skydiving but I found it too fiddly to use when wearing winter gloves. I chose a kite-surfing/life jacket hook knife as it has a bigger two-finger holding 'ring' which I know I can use with my winter gloves on. My choice was a Crewsaver Ergofit (other brands are available!) to which I have added a very bright lanyard so I can slip it over my wrist if I need to use it (and then have less chance of fumbling and dropping it, because no doubt in a full-on emergency I'll be shaking like a cr@apping dog!) And don't practice cutting sheathed lines too often; even though these blades are very sharp, they dull with use and are virtually impossible to sharpen yourself - so perhaps test it out once and then keep it only for emergencies?

I see what you mean Cas, and I could probably do the same with my set up. My only minor concern would be the potential for metal to metal rubbing between the two carabiners in the same loop but I'm sure you're conscious of this and would notice any friction marks when you clip in. I'll try to remember to take a photo of my connection next time I'm out (should the weather give us a break...).

Hi Tricky, I fly an Air Conception Ultra 130 and carry an Ozone Angel in an Evo front mount container (that also provides a small velcro area for use as cockpit). The integral Y bridle end-loops connect directly to the main paraglider attachment points (so each carabiner has both reserve bridle and main wing riser loops attached, but there is plenty of space). I could use a side mounting but prefer to be able to look easily and directly to the reserve handle and have the option to deploy with either hand; the clincher for me was that as an ex military parachutist I was trained with a chest mounted reserve and my muscle memory from training is such that I think I would automatically look and reach to the front. I know that if a main attachment point/carabiner failed then my reserve would be about as much use as a chocolate fireguard, but I'm happy to take the risk, given the very simple connection arrangements which I think has less risk of failure than an additional bridle mounted around the seat and onto the frame. One thing that I wasn't prepared for was that the front container rises as the front arms rise with the wing (doh! Obvious but...).I found that the container in flight was then too close for me to see map and GPS comfortably. I resolved this by adding a 7mm maillon rapide and a Gin soft shackle to the end of each bridle loop; this makes the front container hang down a little lower before take off but at the perfect height for use in flight. Plus it is the soft shackle that connects into the carabiner, so if there is any wear and tear it is easier/cheaper to replace a pair of soft shackles than a front container. Just my tuppenceworth - each to his/her own.

At the risk of re-opening an old post (and a spot of BHPA flaming), I think the one-wing is Elementary Pilot, 2 wing Bronze is Club Pilot and the attached silver (blue?) 2 wing is Pilot rating badge.

Have you had a look at Challow Paramotor Club? We are a pretty friendly bunch and enjoy meeting up when the weather allows. http;//www.challowparamotorclub.co.uk/

Hey - engine out on 8th launch - me too! In my case it was at about 800' and my concern was to make it back to a suitable field (which I did) - everything went as I had been trained and it was quite a non event (apart from the hole in my piston due to overheating ). Now at least I've got my first 'engine out' under my belt. They do say it is a matter of 'when' rather than 'if'... You might want to copy some of this across to the Tips for New Paramotor Pilots thread? I came to Power via Hill and Tow environments and each of them are different. The clunky, clumsy feeling of getting ready for takeoff wearing a paramotor takes some getting used to, especially if you are well wrapped up for a winter flight, but I think it is worth if for the freedom you get as soon as your feet have left the field. Enjoy!

Just a small observation from a low (30 hrs) airtime bloke who qualified to Pilot rating recently. We probably spend a lot of time concentrating on the fuel and exhaust of our mechanical motor but run the risk of neglecting our own 'physical' motor. When I have done all my rigging and daily inspection checks but before I strap in and prepare to fly, I take a moment to refuel myself (triggered by the general aviation I,M SAFE mnemonic). I always have a small drink of tea or squash, a biscuit or a piece of fruit and see if I can manage a sneaky pee. I then know that I will be comfortable and alert for my whole flight, not just concentrating on getting ready for the take off - there is a big difference.

I always carry an emergency parachute when paramotoring, but don't generally when free flying on a ridge; it is more weight and bulk to carry up hill if you are only going to be scratching around at 100'. If I manage to make it up to more than about 300' without the emergency parachute then I start to feel a bit naked and more vulnerable. If I plan to 'go for it' then the emergency parachute is definitely part of the rig. On one occasion I was winch launching and just managing to get to 500' for a quick circuit and land - no emergency parachute and no problems. Next launch I hit the sweet spots on a succession of thermals and made it up to 1,500' in just a few minutes. The air was boisterous and the wing was very active and I felt the absence of the additional confidence an emergency parachute brings (not a fully fledged Code Brown moment but certainly not f@rting with confidence...) I now have a small, compact emergency parachute with which I am more comfortable to fly with than fly without - it is good for paramotor and free flight. How angry would my family feel if I frapped in and they found my emergency parachute neatly packed in the car...? (Finally - I admit I'm a pedant and an ex-parachutist; as we fly wings we don't carry a reserve wing, in most cases it is an emergency parachute. What you call it is isn't as important as carrying it in the first place...). "If in doubt, whip it out!"