Phil_P

Simple answer to that is to notify them of the modification. I think they understand that few paramotors remain as standard, so I doubt there would be any issue. Phil

Have posted a reply in another place, but here is a brief resume; 5 inch ali tube, weld plate on ends and filler into side. Bodge fitting to your motor, Bob's yer uncle. Have tried it, and it works. Will post some pics soon.

I believe that to be the case. I was certainly very cautious during installation, pressing on the bearings rather than tapping them into place. I also tried to ensure that the path of force was either through the outer ring OR through the inner ring, never through both and hence through the bearings themselves. Certainly on first fitting, they felt silky smooth with no notchiness. At least I thought ahead and got some standard bearings at the same time, so when I detected the problem today, it meant I could get on and fix it, rather than having the old debate of 'should I fly it like this?'.

Funny you should say that, I have just come back to the forum having re-fitted the old blades for the time being. Perhaps the upgrade can wait till I have one of those new fangled reflux wings and want a bit more push.

I tried some hybrid ceramic bearings in the redrive shaft on my Adventure (metal races, ceramic balls) as they are supposed to offer better wear characteristics, heat resistance and resistance to low lubrication situations. Five hours of running later, they are completely knackered. I think I can declare this an unmitigated failure. This afternoon is now being spent fitting some old fashioned steel bearings, together with the Nirvana cage from Jerry at Midland Paramotors in Eire. The cage, as Weesplat has pointed out previously is a direct replacement for the Adventure one, just requiring shifting of the mounting tubes up by about an inch and re pop riveting. It is a much better quality item than the Adventure one, and is a bit larger so will accommodate a forty eight inch prop instead of the forty four inch one I currently have fitted.

I'm the same as Gordon. I fly Adventure with a left hand throttle and am right handed. It's what I started on and I took to it instinctively. having your right hand free works for me, if for no other reason than I have my reserve on the right. Even with a front mounted reserve, I like the idea of my dominant hand being free for deployment.

Unfortunately, as any medic or police officer will tell you, there are all too many based on fear, domination and anger, with a massive spread spectrum in between. Not everyone is as lucky as you (and I) Pete. Not only do I get to fly pretty much when I like, but I got to strip the motor on the front room carpet too. Amazing really, cos five years ago we almost split cos I was being a selfish barsteward.

I wasn't happy with the large spaces in the netting on my Adventure, so I used some strong mono-filament fishing line to go diagonally across the majority of the squares, tying off at each corner, to form a much smaller triangle pattern. It is incredibly strong and now small enough to prevent a hand or toggle going through. As the line is still quite fine, I doubt it has added much to wind resistance. I have only fitted it over the top two cage quadrants, as I thought the standard mesh would be enough to stop a foot going through the lower half.

Yesterday was brill, very cold, but brill. Maybe that should be brrrrrrrrrill

If there is a shop at the field, you will almost certainly get a map there. Failing that, mail order from somewhere like 'Transair'. I think prices for maps are pretty much fixed, so I don't think you'll get ripped off wherever you get it from.

Just south of Lincoln at the farm strip that the farmer lets us use.

I flew today, yippeeee! I've been colder on non snowy days, but it was quite windy, and at 1000 feet I was going backwards ( I hadn't put my speed bar on ). Vario was showing about zero on the temperature. It was very bumpy, and I'm wondering if it was actually quite thermic, with the snow covered areas staying cold by reflecting the sun, but the darker ploughed bits were warming up substantially and triggering some quite big thermals (and corresponding sink). As the day warmed, the strip got quite wet and muddy in places, so the wing is drying as I type, up in the spare room. Also, the muddy conditions were getting very slippery underfoot, so I gave up when I went for my 3rd take-off of the day and nearly slipped over in the blustery conditions. Before I flew, I had some really successful kiting, and got my trims set so that the launch was really quite easy considering.

In my previous life as a paramedic, I went to a tandem skydive where neither 'chute opened. The wife of the 'pupil' had bought it for her husband as a present, and was stood watching

I think that even £1500 would be very optimistic for a complete set up. If you managed to pick up a wing for about £500, which would be do-able, but that would then only leave you a grand for motor and odds and sods which isn't a lot. If you DID manage to get it all together on that budget, I'd get someone with a lot of experience to go over it all with a fine tooth comb for any problems. I don't want to put you off, but I wouldn't want you to dive after the cheapest gear you could get, and then suffer the consequences of having to buy again, or potentially, even worse.

I've got so few photos, I guess it's got to be this one; VFR On Top

John, While wishing you the best of luck with your sale, I'm just pointing out that the Conar 20 is only rated to a maximum all up weight of 125Kg. Once you take into account the weight of the motor and all the other gear we tend to hump around, this would only really suit a very light pilot. I totted up the weight of all my gear the other day, boots, helmet, motor, fuel, gps, suit, reserve etc. etc. and was astonished to find it came to more than 60kg You may be better off trying to sell it on one of the free flight fora (e.g. the paragliding forum) to improve your chances of a sale

You may have an internal thread round the recess where the flywheel nut lives. If it's the same as mine, it is a 26mm x 1.5mm pitch, right hand thread. You can check the pitch by counting how many threads you can see, and measuring the total depth in mm, divide the one by the other and you get the pitch. Diameter, you can probably measure with a ruler. I have a puller with this thread, and I think a 27x1.25 on the opposite end, so if you are stuck, and this is the size you need, you are welcome to borrow mine. Phil

Is it possible to have mounted the stator in the wrong orientation? Either 180 or 90 degrees out? Probably won't matter if it's 180 out, as electronic ignition Solo's tend to fire twice per rev anyway, so at TDC as well as BDC.

Hey, if he still has the adventure monocoque/fibreglass bit, and it's still intact, ask him if he wants to flog it as I fancy a project

Depending on your personal feelings towards copyright, you could look for 'torrents' of the Garmin Topo maps.

Not if the prop hit end on one of the blades. Pete b Still, to bend the crank, it is having to bend the redrive shaft, and then transmit the load through the drive belt to bend the crank as well. If you were able to do that, I doubt there are many cages/frames that would have survived the impact. I wonder if the engine was running at impact, as that tends to have much more of a damaging effect. So far, I've always arrived 'dead stick', and cage damage has been minimal. Big things go wrong at launch when I hit the ground with power still on.

The one thing that I really like about the Adventure (and therefore also Nirvana) machines, is that the cage has no structural importance. If you damage the cage, it is very unlikely that damage will be transmitted to the fibreglass monocoque unit. Damage it, and you can patch it up pretty much anyway you like, strength wont affect flight safety too much. Oh, the cage is pretty flimsy, and WILL get bent in hard landings. The aesthetics are a very personal thing, I quite like the sort of organic look to it. Does the F4 use the Solo engine? If so, I've posted my thoughts on it in another of the 'best' paramotor threads that is running at the moment. My F3 has pulled my (pre diet) weight of about 118kg into the air, under an XL Swing Arcus, but not a sparkling rate of climb at that weight. As I lose weight, it's getting better and better. Had recent problems with a stator failure, leaving me with no sparks, but Adventure tech support were very good. Other than that, good reliability.

Because unlike a motorbike, we tend to run at flat out or towards the upper end of the rev range for anything up to a couple of hours. We don't slow down for traffic lights or bends, so the load on our engines is really very high. It therefore makes sense to use a two stroke oil that will tolerate the high running temperatures that we encounter. Also our air speed is fairly low, and fixed, and we keep our engines hidden behind our bodies rather than stuck out in a nice cooling airstream. Because motor fuel actually degrades very quickly in comparison with avgas, the longer it is left, the more likely it is to misbehave at altitude. Despite what you have found, starting will deteriorate over a period of time. Also If left for an extended period, as fuel evaporates from the carb, you can be left with a very sticky residue that will completely gum up your carb.

Easy to come by, various prices. I'm using a small digital gauge from the States, and the sensor came off a cheap car EGT off that well known auction site. You then need a bush welding into your exhaust pipe, about 4 inches from the piston skirt and screw the probe into that. You then tune for max RPM and watch the temp. I believe 650-750 degrees Celsius is considered a normal operating range, and as they respond very fast, you stand half a chance of saving your engine if it overheats. The next part of the project is to have a warning light in my eyeline in the front of the helmet, that will come on in an over-temperature situation. That way, you don't have to spoil your flying by spending half your time looking at a temperature gauge. The low fuel sensor will be wired into the same warning system.

They are an Italian company called IDM. Funnily enough, I've just swapped a couple of emails with them over MY engine problems. They even replied over the weekend! They would have supplied a stator direct if I'd wanted, and a bit cheaper than via Adventure, but I wasn't sure of the time, or payment system. Still, I was very impressed with their response.