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gordon_dunn

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Everything posted by gordon_dunn

  1. Just another bit of advice during the event- I'm sure some 'drone operators' will try to capture the event too..... there is a possibility that they may not be so mindful of air law or common sense. Fly safe everyone!!!
  2. Applies to object not under your direct control- ie, you don't need to avoid your own car parked at the flying field. If pilots in the 'gaggle' are observing the 'rules', then they are under control. GD
  3. Great!!! But what's he running from??????
  4. There are not many types of aircraft that could fly without a pilot (or autopilot).. There's a lot to be said for the natural stability of the PPG setup.
  5. You should go for the dedicated GPS route- i'd recommend the old trusted Garmin cs60x Got all you need, waypoints, basic map, you can use it with one hand (gloves), colour illuminated screen, runs on 2 AA batteries for a long time, and BUILT IN BAROMETRIC ALTIMETER. These are old tech, but reliable- you should be able to get on dirt cheap on Ebay. The interface to the PC is via USB cable, and you can use free software to analyse tracks, plan routes, etc.. Check out GPS Trackmaker- www.gpstm.com
  6. Forgot to mention- the only thing missing from my setup there is the rear number plate- I've since added some clips to the bungee cord to secure the number plate to- just to keep things legal. I don't need additional rear lighting as, the main car lights are not obstructed by the cage.
  7. Nice one- Very clever idea Pat, I was thinking of doing the pivot also, but thought it was just as handy to loosen the main bolt and pull the rack off.
  8. This Thread ain't dead yet.......... I've had a rethink on my paramotor carrier, and got my 'latest' solution working today for the first time. I've switched to the Bak-rak mount, as it seems to be a lot stronger and versatile compared to the Easybase. Really only using the Bak-rak block, the rest has been fabricated/welded from mild steel- then galvanised. Principle is similar to last time- support at base, and prop hub, anchored to base via a bar and 2 wing nuts, then secured by a ratchet strap to relieve any stresses on the paramotor chassis.. Pretty minimal, yet strong enough to hold my weight comfortably. Lighter than the Thule Easybase, and handier to take off, and put back on. I've left the upper section for supporting the prop hub removable- the system could be used for 'short runs', without the prop stop- but i'm more comfortable with it. The only minor inconvenience is removing the whole unit if you want access to the back door- but this is a very simple job. Full series of images at- https://www.flickr.com/photos/20961594@ ... 0887803562
  9. Had a flight tonight and realised that so many waypoints at once is not such a good idea. I concentrated on 8 points- much easier to manage, and photos worked out perfectly. It will just take a bit longer to do, but the quality of the pictures is the most important issue. GD
  10. Just wondering if any of you have any knowledge of any useful software that can optimise a series of waypoints into the shortest possible route? I've seen a few examples but they only provide 'road navigation' routes- not what I need for flying. I have about 70 points that I want to include in my route, and they form a cluster. I may break the series up into a number of different flights, as the geographical area is quite large- approx 10miles east/west. GD
  11. Wing should fly straight if you have low hangpoints/ active suspension points. Pulling continual left brake is not a good idea, as it eliminates the reflex on that side of the wing... Seems like you have an underlying problem here that needs a 'root cause analysis', before it can be fixed. It's probably something to do with harness straps/ and or/ torque. Best advice would be to talk to an experienced flyer with similar set-up and compare notes. GD
  12. Here's a new on for 'Glastonbury pilot' too- Mucksavage
  13. I really hope they do throw the book at him!!! If not, there will be 'copy cats' .
  14. Check this out. http://www.ignant.de/2012/07/25/craig-alan/ Would take a hell of a lot of organisation- but would be a cool thing to do!!
  15. Yes- just ordered more tubing- will do the ground spikes, and tent poles too. Should be able to do the whole length of the Miniplane poles, as the socket is a bit wider than it needs to be.
  16. Update: Just discovered a way to prevent this. As the flibre glass continually flexes during it's life, the top layers 'delaminate' and shed some fine splinters, which pass through the outer nylon sheath, and can easily penetrate skin. Covering the poles in electrical 'shrink wrap' reduces the amount of shedding,but preserves the flexibility/performance of the poles. GD
  17. Just a minor gripe I'm having with my Miniplane cage. During assembly/disassembly of the cage ring, I get some very fine glass splinters in my fingers- not very sore, but very irritating. Any way of avoiding this? Maybe just using leather gloves for the operation would cure it, but would be interested in hearing anyone elses experiences. Had a similar problem a few years back with some windsock ground spikes- I stopped using them for this reason. GD
  18. I'd agree 100% Must be infuriating for farmers when this happens- such a waste of a good crop. Even if it were really aliens, they'd still deserve the size 10s!!!!! Funny how there are practically no crop circles discovered in Ireland.... wonder why?
  19. This is very likely what happened!!!!
  20. Crop circles- Man made, evidence, confessions are there... In saying that- some of them are very well done- considering they're done in the dark, and using rope/planks of wood.. Made me think about a photo I took back in 2009- look at the centre circle on this pitch. They could use a few 'crop circle' techniques here-
  21. Very nice- are those elastic bungees to keep the handles in the clamped position? Are they necessary?- I thought the clamps alone would have been enough. GD
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