enzo200500

Most lambda sensors should work on a 2T, but not for longterm due to the hydrocarbons expelled through exhaust! They coat the sensor and stop the residual Oxygen causing a chemical reaction between the different metals in the sensor. This generates an electrical current. The later types use a heating element in the sensor to speed up the reaction times on first startup.

There should be a translate button?! Crafty fritz must moved it since I last looked....

Just spotted why you need a prop over on the 'cudas group.... http://www.helix-propeller.de/

Glad you cleared up the forest issue Paul! I was looking at Stoney cross on google earth....

Should have gone to Dudek Dave...

Stu, have you had a look on Helix.de website. They seem to make most of the common carbon spinners!

Glad to help Dave! I'got one of those little ally steps as well!!

Or just buy a Koso AFR gauge kit!! http://www.startinglineproducts.com/ins ... /19-93.pdf http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDetail ... uctID=1787 I'm going into the garage now to caress my RG500. Theres 4 little 2T enginges all bolted together on that beastie.....

Generally, when the AFR and plug heat range are correct, plugs are pretty much self cleaning. It makes me cringe when people start spouting off about 2T's oiling plugs at low revs, it just means they cannot sort the low speed circuit of the carb - heathens! Hence checking the base of the porcelain for correct mixture/jetting. Cutting plugs does get expensive though! Many factors can affect the colouring build up on the plug. The way the mix is introduced into the cylinder from the transfer ports, squish gap, piston/head shapes.....many variables! When we run cylinder heads with changeable volume inserts (VHM are things of beauty), even the direction of the earthing strap facing the exhaust port comes into play!! Another good check of mixtures is checking the flame/burn pattern on the piston crown (piston wash). OK, I admit it, I do have a thing for 2T's.........sorry! The Polini gauge looks very well made, but lots of wonga. There was an article from an American car racing site I found recently. It reall did go into much greater detail about mixtures etc and reading what the plugs were telling you. Even down to the different areas on the plug and what is affecting them, from timing, heat range, mixture.....geeky but very informative. The plug is basically a window into the heart of the engine. You just have to know what you are looking at. The good old days of leaded fuel were great for plug chops, this unleaded junk is a right PIA! Also, the choice of 2T oil has some small effect on the readings.

Personally, I'd get mix slightly rich in winter then its good for all year. Unless you are chasing economy records!! CHT gauges are pretty good for long term checking, but they are slow to respond. EGT is faster to indicate 'issues'. AFR is really the only way to go, but lambda sensors and two stroke emissions do not happy bedfellows make......

Plug chopping needs to be carried out on full throttle! Then cut the plug thread off to check the 'smoke ring' at the base of the porcelain! How far do you want to go?? If its 'digestive biscuit' colour, then generally its ok!

http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm From the pics, plug does not look too bad. Was this achieved doing a correct plug chop or normal running? How it was achieved is very important!!

Another satisfied customer, now go flying.... Oh, and get a spare plug! Xx

Hotline closed.... Steve

Pop the plug out, spinengine over holding full throttle for 5 or 10 secs. New plug or dry old one out with lighter or compressed air. Don't flood again!! Naughty boy

Where are my dogs Phil....??

Absolutely amazing, well done Felix and crew!! I'd name my cat Felix if I had one..... Better than a smelly dog.

Lee, I have a 34 Synth. When ground flapping the brakes are incredibly soft/light! Taking a wrap gets the required response, also a bollocking from my instructor!! But in the very few flights I've had, they are a lot heavier when flying. No wraps... Never noticed any rolling etc? I must have asked my long suffering instructor, Steve Haze, "are these brake lines too long"? about a hundred times. I did check when flying on '0' trim setting, and there is just a slight bow in the line length. This I remember reading as being the correct amount of slack.

Rob, the fuel is not draining back into tank from the carb is it? Some good walbro info.... http://www.larssletten.net/My%20stuff/w ... t-eng.html Test gauge.. http://www.kartpartsuk.com/category.php?id=131&page=2 http://www.aerocorsair.com/id37.htm http://www.aerocorsair.com/id27.htm Pop off pressure adjustment.. http://www.aerocorsair.com/id28.htm More stuff.. http://webspace.webring.com/people/bf/f ... ation.html http://larssletten.net/My%20stuff/walbr ... tuning.jpg

Should be a y/tube video there Barry!

Well, this guy is keen to get back home!! And check out the spinning prop whilst walking about bystanders!! [youtubevideo] [/youtubevideo]

Close but no cigar fritz.... Now thats one way to clean the windows!!

Here is one of many available on the internet.. http://www.larssletten.net/My%20stuff/w ... t-eng.html

I use High Temp Silicone on any joint like this on the motorbikes. Works a treat!

Thankyou for remembering them all Frank.