gordon_dunn Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Does anyone know what the recommended Top-80 idle speed should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevec Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 The manual states 2100 - 2200 rpm, but this is quite close to the point at which the starter pawls engage and make a noise. In practice about 2600 rpm is better and safer from a stalling point, especially if your tick-over is as erratic as mine. Anything over 3000rpm and the clutch starts to engage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s1buell_wl Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 I backed it off mine until the nose started from the clutch then bright it a few rpm`s above the noise. never touched it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 Good- running now at 2500rpm and seems a lot better. Just finished my first series of run-in flights, and noticed that I'm still getting some dark oil stains on the prop after flight. Is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s1buell_wl Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 I`m running mine at 60:1 with nothing on prop just a little oil every once and a while around exhaust. Someone told me there was a better spark plug for the top 80 but I lost the email. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Oil on the prop is normal. It happened on mine and it also happened on a friends Top 80. It will be coming from where the exhaust meets the head. It usually goes away once the two components have bedded in together.............it's a sort of ball joint. If it persists, you can get a copper gasket that goes between the two. In my experience the supplier will give it to you for free. Have done the starter modification yet? If not get on with it, it's a game changer. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 Have done the starter modification yet? If not get on with it, it's a game changer.Good luck Haven't got around to it yet, but it's on the way. I had to adjust the idle speed and stuff, so I just wanted to get this sorted first. The bungee cord and fitting the speed bar system is my next project. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_k Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Ive had couple of top 80 engines all leak little where exhaust meets as mentioned the cooper flange makes a big difference but i was advised to change to copper flange after around 20hours not when new Such a fantastic engine for a lighter pilot, i get around 2.5ltrs an hour in full reflex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 Yes the fuel economy on this machine is amazing... On my previous machine (H&E R120/99cm prop) I was pushing 4L to 4.5L per hour... now I'd say im around 2.5L - 3L per hour. I only buy 5 litres at a time now, I used to always buy 10L at a time previously. Just after ordering my speedbar pulleys- I know this will cost a bit on fuel economy, but the bar can be useful sometimes when you need a little more speed, or penetration into a head wind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dede2008 Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 If you want to fix the oil leakage you should add the mentioned copper gasket, plus another tip: don't leave the two screws loose but tighten them up fully (originally they are supposed to stay a bit loose and let the springy spiral do the job of pressing, but experience tells this is not enough). What's the starter modification mentioned above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 What's the starter modification mentioned above? Piece of elastic bungee cord attached to the starter handle- most Miniplane owners have done this as far as i can see... I don't have any real problems starting a warm engine in flight, but this makes it much easier apparently. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christian Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 The bungee modification is documented here..... http://www.ppginfo.com/bungee%20start.html I have modified mine and it works very well. I tried starting my mate's Top80, which hasn't been modified and I will surprised at how much more strength was required. Christian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dede2008 Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 All right, yes, I was aware of the bungee modification, I thought it was something different. Thank you for clarifying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon_dunn Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 The bungee modification is documented here.....http://www.ppginfo.com/bungee%20start.html I have modified mine and it works very well. I tried starting my mate's Top80, which hasn't been modified and I will surprised at how much more strength was required. Christian First night out at the field with the new 'bungee mod', couldn't belive how easy it was to start. Just a quick prime before getting into the harness, then easy pull and - GO! Re-starting in the air really wouldn't be a problem using this method- but didn't try this as conditions were somewhat challenging tonight. Starting the machine while it's on your back is much safer anyway, and would defintely be recommended. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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