fanman

PAP 1400 Ros 125 is 29kg with no fuel and no reserve attached but otherwise ready to go. PAP 1400 Top80 is 25kg in same config. With the exception of Bailey who quote real weights just about every other manufacturer quotes useless bullsh1t. Simo's are not heavy motors when put in the right chassis.

http://www.ojovolador.com/ppg/tables/heavy.html HE R120 - 24.8kg without harness, 28.8kg with harness.

A PAP Motion is just a rebadged Swing Arcus.

From conversations I have had with balloon pilots they don't vent hot air until touchdown. They have a line that allows them to spill the contents of the envelope which they use after touchdown to keep them planted. Although this line could be pulled in flight it isn't used because if it doesn't re-close properly when released then you are in a very sticky situation.

bump... that's another pint you owe me

yeah i am. It was only because i saw a statement that you cant reset a t-tach when you can and then got curious what he was going to. Anyhows if it werent for me you wouldnt have had your ad in the limelight so much eh. mines a pint when you gets the cash

Sorry mate I'm not a prospective buyer just interested in the thinking process behind the changeover. i tried a flat top once and found it ok. the only thing that bugged me about it was the way it clobbered you on the back of the legs when you tried to move about with it. Otherwise it was fine if a little heavy but then thats the price for a lot of grunt. going from a 28 meter wing to a 34 meter wing... been eating a few pies lately?

with what wing?

agree with above. my order of priority would be synthesis, revolution, fusion, nucleon

Yes, been using it primarily for the thermal updraft velocity for over a year. Very useful.

It is possible to reset a non-resetable tinytach by shorting the battery. What are you upgrading to?

Unless you are a porker there are machines out there that weigh 25kg with fuel for an hours flying.

and your wing weighs another 7 kilos

LASORS Section B (http://www.caa.co.uk/docs/175/Section%2 ... E%20(FRTOL).pdf), para B1.6 The holder of a FRTOL expired for more than 1 year but less than 10 years, will be required to pass the theoretical written examination. To renew a FRTOL that has expired or not been used for 10 years or more, applicants will be required to pass the practical Communications test and theoretical written examination. The holder of a UK national flight crew licence with lifetime validity, who has not exercised the privileges of the FRTOL for a period exceeding 10 years, will be required to pass the practical Communications test and theoretical written examination in order to reactivate the FRTOL.

I agree with the above. Separate the wing from the package as it is probably more suited to ground handling. those people that like to fly non-reflex wings can get much more modern examples with the benefit of more modern handling for peanuts second hand. The motor does look like the best example I have seen for an adventure so while I'd suggest these usually go for £1300-1500 I think you should be looking for £2000 for that. Somebody else might be prepared to say more, who knows. BTW that was not an offer from me!

No disrespect mate but this kit may be low houred but it is seriously yesterday. The Elle wing was an Adventure design from 1996! For that money I would expect a pretty decent wing with an oldie worldie Adventure F4.

Tend to agree, pay peanuts get monkeys.

Landing with the engine idling is perfectly safe but exposes the prop to unneccessary risk in the event of a stumble (especially if no clutch), turning the motor off at about 10-15 feet is daft as it can make you pitch about under the wing at a time you least want that to happen. IMO the safest way to operate and most noise conscious is to switch off at altitude and glide in to land. Personally I tend to overfly the field at 1500-2000, shut down and glide in. The biggest bonus with making this your normal operating manner is that engine out worries are a thing of the past.

An interesting stat is the number of pilots that choose to leave PG wings for PPG reflex wings compared to the other way round. You'll notice it's one way traffic.

The point I am trying to get across is that here is a classic opportunity to provide a relocated tab position that could drop the toggle height by over 10". I am talking about fitting a longer line than the current one from the stabilo connection to the tab which is perfectly safe with proper securing onto the stabilo and also at the riser. This makes it useable for high hang points and some low hang point users may prefer the new location as well.

I just did a bit of measuring and found the lowering is over 10 inches. I take it you haven't tried a true high set up with TST then?

Whoa there touchy! Just making a considered opinion bearing in mind what the purpose of the tabs are for. Before they were introduced we still tip steered but we achieved it by reaching up for the stabilo lines. By having a retrofit kit that puts the tabs at the top of the B's what have we really achieved? You may not fly high hang points but worldwide probably half the market does and for these guys they are out of reach. Here's a chance for Paramania to see this as constructive criticism to make these wings more available to all as they did not seem to consider the issue as relevant as many end users do.

Vince, while you're at it why not make your kit so that the tip steering tabs are relocated to the bottom of the B risers rather than at the top. I've never quite understood why Paramania put the tabs at the top of the B riser almost alongside the point on the line that you'd be reaching for if you hadn't bothered to fit the kit in the first place! The whole idea of a tip steering system is to make it easier to reach the stabilo lines, especially important if you fly high hang points as the stabilos can be out of reach. not enough thought was put into the original design.

Mounting on the throttle works in most cases but sometimes interference from the ignition circuit running down the kill switch wire can make the tinytach work erratically. try it on the handle but if it doesn't work properly then move it elsewhere.

Vince, that is an essential modification in my opinion. It is a shame that the manufacturer stick their heads in the sand over this matter. Well done you for offering a proper fix. If you don't buy this kit then you don't consider your life to be worth more than £25.