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Prop repair with epoxy


Guest brightfish
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knickers to fixing that with epoxy,

I'd rather buy a new one....

If I hadn't also got to find the money to get my wing repaired, I probably would buy a new one!

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Easy fix that.

Never heard of araldite, but even a wood glue will do it if you seal the whole thing after sanding - that is after all how they got those laminant layers together after all.

Doesn't look like you lost any bits. If there are chips missing, glue the split first, then wet chipped spots with superglue and dust wet spots with baking soda to build up. Not all superglue works the same I think it's the isocyanates that bond with the soda. It forms an instantly hard epoxy which once built up can be sanded to form to prop shape again.

I've fixed a few hapless props this way and seen what looked like a jigsaw puzzle fly again by another's hand.

Make sure it's clean/dry in the split, glue/epoxy, clamp and let set. Sand to smooth again and check balance (lawnmower blade balancer will get you pretty close).

That prop can fly again. When you get the chance, make it your spare.

References:

http://www.ultralightnews.ca/articles/proprepair.htm

http://www.aerocorsair.com/id43.htm

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even a wood glue will do it if you seal the whole thing after sanding - that is after all how they got those laminant layers together

Exactly,

It's a clean split with no bits missing so should go back together no problem.

Thanks for the tip, you've saved me a few quid there, just a shame I can't glue my wing back together :)

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For that a good kiteshop can probably fix you up at a fair price. Pull material specs for them from para2000.org for your wing.

For small tears and bug chomps I've used mylar tape (clear stuff) on both sides of the problem area. Best to get some nylon thread (or whatever kitefolk use) in there if it's significant damage though. Every time I give the wing a look over I check my small repairs and none has ever moved or peeled, so it's probably good until next rigger inspection with this stuff.

I got it from a web site in bulk 2" strips.

Don't recall where, but there were many sources.

Like:

http://www.kiteshop.co.uk/xcart/kites/k ... p1363.html

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I think if the tear wasn't so close to the anchor point and the rib then the tape idea may have been OK. As you can see it's quite a small rip. I think it's probably best to get the wing checked over as the lines got caught in the prop (one actually splitting it as shown) this then pulled hard on the wing causing the tear.

wingdamage003.jpg

Very useful to know about the mylar repair tape though, thank you :)

Joe

http://shoestringpilot.blogspot.com/

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I think if the tear wasn't so close to the anchor point and the rib then the tape idea may have been OK. As you can see it's quite a small rip. I think it's probably best to get the wing checked over as the lines got caught in the prop (one actually splitting it as shown) this then pulled hard on the wing causing the tear.

wingdamage003.jpg

Very useful to know about the mylar repair tape though, thank you :)

Joe

http://shoestringpilot.blogspot.com/

Dont try to repair yourself send it off to the loft or somewhere similar to get it done properly.

Remember this is keeping you in the air and its a long way down, but if you do fall just jump the last 2 foot so it wont be too bad :shock::shock:

Pete b :D

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Joe,

http://para2000.org/wings/trekking/parawing.html

Your parawing is made of the heavy stuff on top, probably get patched with skytex underneath. Line connect seam tear bad, mylar insufficient unless you're escaping a bog.

Please do update your blog when you get that seam patched up. I'm enjoying the read as it's sort of the path I took with my last build.

Kudos on the size of investment so far. Your rig looks well put together too.

What is dry weight? All up?

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I think if the tear wasn't so close to the anchor point and the rib then the tape idea may have been OK. As you can see it's quite a small rip. I think it's probably best to get the wing checked over as the lines got caught in the prop (one actually splitting it as shown) this then pulled hard on the wing causing the tear.

wingdamage003.jpg

Very useful to know about the mylar repair tape though, thank you :)

Joe THATS 2 BIG A RIP TO REPAIR WITH TAPE.SEND IT TO THE LOFT, OR AREOFIX TO GET IT PRO/FIXED.IT WILL NEED A SEWED PACTH......

http://shoestringpilot.blogspot.com/

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I think if the tear wasn't so close to the anchor point and the rib then the tape idea may have been OK. As you can see it's quite a small rip. I think it's probably best to get the wing checked over as the lines got caught in the prop (one actually splitting it as shown) this then pulled hard on the wing causing the tear.

That rip isn't simple DIY repair. I heartily recommend the loft. They did some work on my wing in the time they said they would, at the price they said they would (and not as much as I was expecting). Get the details from their website http://www.theloftworkshop.co.uk call them up and away you go.

Get it done properly and live to fly another day. :-)

Stuart

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Joe,

Please do update your blog when you get that seam patched up. I'm enjoying the read as it's sort of the path I took with my last build.

Kudos on the size of investment so far. Your rig looks well put together too.

What is dry weight? All up?

I'm glad you're enjoying my blog, to be honest, I'm surprised just how many people seem to be reading it.

Unfortunately my machine is heavy, at 36Kg (dry) it's probably a little over engineered and the KT100 Kart engine has quite a low power to weight ratio. Still it pushes out a respectable 50kg of thrust which should get my 14 1/2 stone body off the ground.

Don't worry, I have no intention of repairing the wing myself guys, I've already had a quote for the repairs and a service. I've just got to get the cash together now before I can carry on.

Joe

http://shoestringpilot.blogspot.com/

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You may be surprised how heavy many production machines actually are dry weight.

I don't know what benchmark is used to pick their numbers, but they're all over the map and most are advertised lower then you'll ever see them in the wild.

Maybe they proudly announce the motor weight without cage, or without harness, but ready to fly means the full meal deal to me biners and all.

My machine is a mini2 WJ RR clone, with exception of my own battery box and a digitron gauge with egt/cht/tach leads, strobes.

It is pretty much the same weight as yours dry. Mind you I've a 7AH lead acid in the mix which adds a few pounds but I can't see it dropping below 33kg for a NiCad version.

All wet (14l) I'm huffing 43Kg before the wing takes the weight. This is why I'm not fond of running...

50kg of thrust for 1/3 or less the price of a commercial rig is fair play and plenty for day to day cruising.

The old solo 210 I had weighed the same and only made 50kg of thrust.

Heavy is relative... 8)

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You may be surprised how heavy many production machines actually are dry weight.

I don't know what benchmark is used to pick their numbers, but they're all over the map and most are advertised lower then you'll ever see them in the wild.

Maybe they proudly announce the motor weight without cage, or without harness, but ready to fly means the full meal deal to me biners and all.

My machine is a mini2 WJ RR clone, with exception of my own battery box and a digitron gauge with egt/cht/tach leads, strobes.

It is pretty much the same weight as yours dry. Mind you I've a 7AH lead acid in the mix which adds a few pounds but I can't see it dropping below 33kg for a NiCad version.

All wet (14l) I'm huffing 43Kg before the wing takes the weight. This is why I'm not fond of running...

50kg of thrust for 1/3 or less the price of a commercial rig is fair play and plenty for day to day cruising.

The old solo 210 I had weighed the same and only made 50kg of thrust.

Heavy is relative... 8)

I must admit that the weight of my machine had been playing on my mind but what you've said has made my feel a little better about it, thanks :)

I'm hoping the real benefit of my design is going to be more apparent in the long run. Parts for the KT are cheap and easy to get hold of and because the frame is bolted together, repairs are quick and easy to carry out.

Anyway we'll have to see, hopefully this year I can put that theory to the test :)

Joe

http://shoestringpilot.blogspot.com/

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For the record,

I know about resin (MD of a Carbon Fibre company for 2 years)

Epoxy based 2 part resin will mend this with no worries! hold it apart, gunk a load of 2 part Epox in there and clamp it toghther.

Wake up in the morning and go for a fly.

The added weight will not require balance.

Done it loads if times with 'splits'.

SW :D

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For the record,

I know about resin (MD of a Carbon Fibre company for 2 years)

Epoxy based 2 part resin will mend this with no worries! hold it apart, gunk a load of 2 part Epox in there and clamp it toghther.

Wake up in the morning and go for a fly.

The added weight will not require balance.

Done it loads if times with 'splits'.

SW :D

Thanks Simon, a 2 part epoxy like Araldite yes?

Joe

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Thanks Simon, a 2 part epoxy like Araldite yes?

Joe

Araldite is fine. If you can get the old fashioned slow set stuff rather than the 'Rapid' it should be even tougher.

Personally, if I could get the two edges very tight together, I'd go for a waterproof wood glue (the waterproof bit doesn't matter if you give the whole plot some clear coat afterwards). Well clamped while setting can even be 'gaffer' tape holding it all together.

The well documented 'super-glue and baking powder trick' is brilliant if you have any chunks missing.

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