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Towbar paramotor carriers


AndyB
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Now that I am getting to be too knackered to run, the trike is going to have to be used. I am trying to minimise the effort required to transport the trike and came up with this. It lifts on so easily. Just wheel up to it and lift the last bit.  Do you think I can get away with this? I'll add a number plate on the back end.

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Hi Andy don't think that you will have any problem with that at all ,just as long as the number plate is visable from the rear, and of course  the rear lights .how have you fitted the trike to your nitro and what trike is it. just thinking ahead.!!!!! Geoffw

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Hi, if you look on the last picture you will see a 1" tube going up vertically next to the frame of the Tornado. There are then 4 nylon blocks I made that have holes drilled to sandwich the 2 tubes nice and tightly. I get the correct machine angle by sitting the base of the frame on a couple of angled nylon blocks. The trike is built from the Lite Trike plans, but with many changes I made to improve them eg. the seat support is made from a single block of lightweight nylon (copyright in case that twit who contacted me is looking!). I also have 2 sets of wheels, the sand wheels (on the rear at the mo) and some solid wheels (front one is fitted at the moment). I have two sets of rear axles so the different wheels stay on their respective axles without messing around to change them over, just change the whole axle with a single bolt.

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Thinking about how my hang glider was put together, have you thought about halving the central chassis member for convenience and short packing? You could sleeve it and use pip pins for quick release. At least then you wouldn't have that bit  sticking out the back, which, even  with a light -board and number plate attached, you know some silly twit might not see too well.

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Nice idea. It just cost me £16 for a 3/8" pip pin and 200 mm of 1 3/4" thick walled tube. I'll have to bore the 1 3/4"tube slightly to fit the 1 1/2" centre tube, but then I'll have a nice snug fit. I think there is about 0.2 mm interference!

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There will be a lot of force going through the bottom joint - the central chassis member will act like a long lever, and as you go over speed bumps and pot holes there will be a lot of strain going through it. Driving it to the launch site will probably put the equivalent load/unload cycles as flying it for 100 hours - pot holes are very harsh compared to grass. It will also stick out a very long way, and the mental stress of trying to get round corners and past cyclists will make driving it a not too relaxing experience!

When you pull out of junctions I doubt other drivers will have the mental capacity to realise how long it is and will probably ding it.

Maybe have a quick release for the central chassis member like chrsfrwll suggests.

Failing that how about rolling it onto a 5x4 car trailer bed?

 

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Thanks for the thoughts, I really appreciate that. I have ordered the parts to make a join in the long tube. I am thinking of making the cut just about where the speed bar is sitting. This should be a good compromise as too near the back and the join will have a lot of stress on it and too near the front and there would still be a lot sticking out. I'm hoping to be able to make the alteration before heading out to Spain next week to test it out on Bornos lake bed.

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