pete_b Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 As its quiet? About 3 months ago I decided to get anther more powerful paramotor now there is nothing wrong with my trusty Pap Top 80 but I want better economy. I looked at what was avalable and it came down to 3, but they all had good points and bad so Ill build my own. I contacted Simonini and ordered a mini 2 plus with fuel pump and bing carb. Ordered a ground adjustable prop from GSE in the states. Two weeks later they were both here oooooooooooo shiny shiny. I have over the last few years flying thought that if this was different or that was moved to there maybe it would be better,so I decided to build my own cage. 6mm stainless tube was ordered and arived two days latter,after I had made the bender I started to form the cage Then work picked up and what with one thing and another the build was crawling along. As I am a BIT impatient I was not going to have the motor sat around for I don't know how many months doing nothing so I thought about putting it in to my Pap cage but decided to keep this flyable just in case it was flyable. After thinking about it I decided to to get a parajet macro complete less engine and fit the Simonini in to it. The engine is now in sat in the cage waiting for some extra mounts to be made so as the exhaust and prop will clear the cage,the electric box fouled the head so thats got to be reworked the spark plug will not allow the fuel tank to go in so I have heated up the tank and pushed the top down in(not a pretty sight but it will do for now) I am now trying to work out a throttle grip with stop and start buttons. I did not go for the Parajet one as I like the Pap type and found the Parajet one a little large for me. I hope to have it running by mid Jan as my Pap will be in spain waiting for me to go out and fly it in the warm air over the beach.HA HA Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathboy Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 Pete, Have a word with Jim on the Lemmings site as I'm sure the Jabba 1 I saw at Paramania last April was a Simo in a Parajet macro cage. He might have some tips on setting up the prop and the motor, as I know he did lots of thrust testing with various props to improve the economy over his original Parajet (that i think Stu? now owns). Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Cheers Paul will do Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 Pete, Very interesting stuff.... how about some pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Ill see what I can do tomorrow Norman. Do you want me lay over it or just looking sexy stood by it?? Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indigo_miles Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 I have managed to build myself a great hand throttle I worship parajet but I do think their throttle is a little bulky especially when you have your risers and brake in the hand. I also like my hand free to use a camera etc. My hand throttle works perfectly, if I change my paramotor i will be keeping or building myself another one. take a look at my photos in my album The handle is a mountain bike handle bar end make "Specialized" "Dirtrod Bar Ends 05" part no 2143610 price £14.99 pair the brake lever is made by "swinger" part no BX273 price £10.99 pair both purchased from J E James Chesterfield England. the start stop button is a "Horn/Starter Button" part no 594B purchased from Motorworld Matlock England. I have seen similar in some electronic catalogues. Stop button at thumb level start at bottom only activated by your other hand. The "cruse control" is achieved by drilling the allen bolt head side of the throttle lever holder large enough to allow the allen head of the bolt to slide in and out, clamping the lever when the thumb screw is turned. The clever bit is the spot weld on the allen head bolt. The spot weld is to stop the allen bolt from turning but still allowing the head to move with in the holder and clamp the lever when the thumb screw is tightened. The weld was achieved by two spots repeated one on top of the other with a simple arc welder and a stainless steel rod. You will have to drill and file a notch offset to the allen head hole to seat it all into. the felt washers are used each side of the lever on the bolt. When using tighten the cruse control thumb screw. It is the smoothest clamp and requires no effort, the lever can still be pulled or pushed out with the back of your fingers to increase/decrees the engine revs holding a constant speed. The rest of the manufacturing can be seen by by studying the photos. good luck many thanks Miles As its quiet?About 3 months ago I decided to get anther more powerful paramotor now there is nothing wrong with my trusty Pap Top 80 but I want better economy. I looked at what was avalable and it came down to 3, but they all had good points and bad so Ill build my own. I contacted Simonini and ordered a mini 2 plus with fuel pump and bing carb. Ordered a ground adjustable prop from GSE in the states. Two weeks later they were both here oooooooooooo shiny shiny. I have over the last few years flying thought that if this was different or that was moved to there maybe it would be better,so I decided to build my own cage. 6mm stainless tube was ordered and arived two days latter,after I had made the bender I started to form the cage Then work picked up and what with one thing and another the build was crawling along. As I am a BIT impatient I was not going to have the motor sat around for I don't know how many months doing nothing so I thought about putting it in to my Pap cage but decided to keep this flyable just in case it was flyable. After thinking about it I decided to to get a parajet macro complete less engine and fit the Simonini in to it. The engine is now in sat in the cage waiting for some extra mounts to be made so as the exhaust and prop will clear the cage,the electric box fouled the head so thats got to be reworked the spark plug will not allow the fuel tank to go in so I have heated up the tank and pushed the top down in(not a pretty sight but it will do for now) I am now trying to work out a throttle grip with stop and start buttons. I did not go for the Parajet one as I like the Pap type and found the Parajet one a little large for me. I hope to have it running by mid Jan as my Pap will be in spain waiting for me to go out and fly it in the warm air over the beach.HA HA Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 Pete, It will be great to see it fly matey Bringing the biker concept of 'Streetfighter' bikes into Paramotoring! We will be having custom Paramotor shows soon SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 I have already looked at your throttle Miles and it is great but I am going to try my own design first. If it does not work then I will make one of yours Thanks for the info. Pete b I have managed to build myself a great hand throttle I worship parajet but I do think their throttle is a little bulky especially when you have your risers and brake in the hand. I also like my hand free to use a camera etc. My hand throttle works perfectly, if I change my paramotor i will be keeping or building myself another one. take a look at my photos in my album The handle is a mountain bike handle bar end make "Specialized" "Dirtrod Bar Ends 05" part no 2143610 price £14.99 pair the brake lever is made by "swinger" part no BX273 price £10.99 pair both purchased from J E James Chesterfield England. the start stop button is a "Horn/Starter Button" part no 594B purchased from Motorworld Matlock England. I have seen similar in some electronic catalogues. Stop button at thumb level start at bottom only activated by your other hand. The "cruse control" is achieved by drilling the allen bolt head side of the throttle lever holder large enough to allow the allen head of the bolt to slide in and out, clamping the lever when the thumb screw is turned. The clever bit is the spot weld on the allen head bolt. The spot weld is to stop the allen bolt from turning but still allowing the head to move with in the holder and clamp the lever when the thumb screw is tightened. The weld was achieved by two spots repeated one on top of the other with a simple arc welder and a stainless steel rod. You will have to drill and file a notch offset to the allen head hole to seat it all into. the felt washers are used each side of the lever on the bolt. When using tighten the cruse control thumb screw. It is the smoothest clamp and requires no effort, the lever can still be pulled or pushed out with the back of your fingers to increase/decrees the engine revs holding a constant speed. The rest of the manufacturing can be seen by by studying the photos. good luck many thanks Miles As its quiet?About 3 months ago I decided to get anther more powerful paramotor now there is nothing wrong with my trusty Pap Top 80 but I want better economy. I looked at what was avalable and it came down to 3, but they all had good points and bad so Ill build my own. I contacted Simonini and ordered a mini 2 plus with fuel pump and bing carb. Ordered a ground adjustable prop from GSE in the states. Two weeks later they were both here oooooooooooo shiny shiny. I have over the last few years flying thought that if this was different or that was moved to there maybe it would be better,so I decided to build my own cage. 6mm stainless tube was ordered and arived two days latter,after I had made the bender I started to form the cage Then work picked up and what with one thing and another the build was crawling along. As I am a BIT impatient I was not going to have the motor sat around for I don't know how many months doing nothing so I thought about putting it in to my Pap cage but decided to keep this flyable just in case it was flyable. After thinking about it I decided to to get a parajet macro complete less engine and fit the Simonini in to it. The engine is now in sat in the cage waiting for some extra mounts to be made so as the exhaust and prop will clear the cage,the electric box fouled the head so thats got to be reworked the spark plug will not allow the fuel tank to go in so I have heated up the tank and pushed the top down in(not a pretty sight but it will do for now) I am now trying to work out a throttle grip with stop and start buttons. I did not go for the Parajet one as I like the Pap type and found the Parajet one a little large for me. I hope to have it running by mid Jan as my Pap will be in spain waiting for me to go out and fly it in the warm air over the beach.HA HA Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Let me get it flying first then we can add the gold reflective paint and get some of the parts anodized. pete b It will be great to see it fly matey Bringing the biker concept of 'Streetfighter' bikes into Paramotoring! We will be having custom Paramotor shows soon SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 Sorry there are no pictures yet but the blue tooth connection on my pc has disappeared I will try to get some put up soon. Engine is now fitted including the spacers to allow for the exaste and prop clearance. Home made throttle is done. Half the wiring is in. I had to cut nearly all of the back (engine side) out of the fuel tank and fit a flatter piece in to clear the spark plug (have you ever tried plastic welding AAAAHHHHHHHHH) I am hoping to have it up and running for the 12/13 training day Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted January 3, 2008 Author Share Posted January 3, 2008 Managed to upload some pics,they are not in any order and no that is not the permanent prop bolts Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Looks cool from the pics Pete, the cylinder head does look a tad adjacent to the fuel tank. Trez elegant exhaust system. Plenty of chrome to polish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted January 4, 2008 Author Share Posted January 4, 2008 I think thats what they call a cut and shut,on the tank?? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted January 6, 2008 Author Share Posted January 6, 2008 It s alive I got every thing on today and started it up it started no problem but does seem to have a compression knock on low RPM which goes as you pick the RPM up a little. Now to get it run in for the weekend?? Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Well done Pete! Any difference in dry weight after the process is complete? Max thrust figures when you have them would be good. Pictures of the completed machine with naked (female) model would be appreciated. (No gaping gussets as this is a family site. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_b Posted January 6, 2008 Author Share Posted January 6, 2008 HI Norman The complete dry weight is 33 kilos. Static thrust?, I will be trimming the prop for dynamic thrust which in turn will lower the static thrust. I will have a word with the wife and see if she is up for it ??????? Pete b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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