skydiverken

I bought a WG10, works well.

UPDATE Problem wasn't solved after replacing the piston rings. Finally I did a leak test and found that there was a leak in the crankcase. I first made a new paper gasket but that didn't solve the problem. Then used Loctite 5980 to seal the crankcase. Did some flights, engine is running well, max RPM is 9600, Max CHT about 175°C.

I found the problem, piston rings were worn.

Hello My HE R120 has an intermittent problem. Sometimes with full throttle, it reaches max rpm (about 9400rpm) but then rpm decreases to about 5000rpm. When i release throttle and immediatly go back to full throttle, I get max rpm. I recently changed spark plug, fuel filter, fuel lines, carb gaskets, did a carb rebuild and I use fresh fuel (2,5% ratio). Reed valves are ok. Does anyone have an idea what the problem can be? Thanks, Kevin

Taking the cover is is easy, just unscrew the bolts, but be careful you don't ruin the gasket. In my gearbox was no oil but grease (I own a HE R80 and HE120, they are boith >10 years old). I use Castrol High Temperature Grease 400GR for several years now and I have had no problems with it.

Hello My two engines (HE R80 and HE R120) have a walbro WG8 carburetor. It's getting harder to buy them and the price for a new one is very high (200€). Does anyone have experience with the walbro WG10? They are almost similar... Kevin

I Found the problem. The internal structure of the silencer was broken. Those pieces and some sound absorbing material caused a partial blockage...

Hello Thanks for the replies. Also changed the primer bulb (forgot to mention), there is a foam filter in the airbox but it's clean...

Hello A very strange thing occurs to my Vittorazi moster185. During my last flight, my max RPM just decreased to 6400rpm instead of 8400rpm. Also have a CHT gauge, max temp is +/- 205°C. Engine starts after 1-2 pulls, idles great, reaches max rpm but after about 30seconds, the rpm drops at wide open throttle. I guess there is some kind of leak when the engine gets warm. I still haven't found the cause, the things I checked and changed: - fresh fuel (2,5% oil/fuel) - new spark plug - swapped carb with a 100% working Walbro WB37 carb (pop off pressure is good, new membranes,...) - replaced the coil (with 0,45mm gap between flywheel and coil) - fuel system is ok (replaced fuel lines,fuel pump and filter) - fuel tank valve is ok - brass weight at bottom fuel tank is ok - replaced al the gaskets between carb and reed valve - reed valves are ok - replaced exhaust gasket - motor has 130h, put a new piston, piston rings, needle bearing Has enyone encountered the same problem? I am running out of ideas Best regards, Kevin

Hello I have a Canon PowershotSX730. On the ground, it is a very good camera but when I try to take pictures while flying, 99% of the pictures are not sharp. I only take my camera with me when the air is very calm. Before I take a serie of pictures, I let my engine idle. I tried several different settings for ISO, shutter speed,... but I don't manage to take good pictures. I understand that not every picture can be perfect but I want to ask with wath kind of camera some of you have good experiences. Thank you in advance Kevin

Hello, I have two HE engines. On their website you can download a list of spare parts. Just mail to ventas@heparamotores.com and you get a PI from them. I live in Belgium, delivery time is about a week.

Hello, I asked a question to some paramotor teachers: does a touch and go count as a flight or not? One said that a touch and go counts as a flight. The other said thats not true... not that it is important but I like to read your opinions. Safe flights!

Hello Andy, thxs again for your reply. Yesterday we did another flight. After two beers, the engine cooled down and we checked the tension. It was 350Hz again. Guess its ok.

Hello Andy, thank you for your reply. We tensioned the belt when the engine was cold and we waited about one hour after the flight to remeasure the belt tension.

Hello David Last week wr checked the belt tension from my friend his moster 185. it was only 150Hz. We adjusted the tension by using an app to measure the frequency, to 450Hz. After a flight (45min) we checked again after the engine had cooled down. The frequency was only 350 Hz. Does anyone know this is normal, I think not but we put nail polish on the bols and nothing had moved.

This thrust problem is driving me crazy!!! I bought a new crankcase, installed new piston, new piston rings. New reeds, carburetor is one year old, cleaned. No air leak in fuel system. New coil. Timing is ok. To solve the oil leak from the seal on the crankcase, I mounted new seals and bearings. My engine starts from the first pull. Idle is fine. Spark plug color is ok. Did a proper breaking in of the new engine. I also installed a new clutch. At full throttle, engine revs at 9500 r/min. But I STILL don't have enough power... I am not able to measure the revs/min from my prop. I have a strobe but in order to measure the revs, I have to put the strobe +/-5cm from the spinning prop, it is to dangerous... Mounted a carbon prop (didn't installed it backwards...). The last thing that I can check is the gearbox. Has anyone had this kind of problem before? I don't know immediately how the gearbox can cause a powerloss. I doesn't make a strange sound. Does anyone know how to measure the revs/min from the prop on a safe way? Looking forward to read your replies. Kevin

I've contacted H&E and they have sent me the procedure. Kevin

Hello A couple of weeks ago, I started a topic due to lack of power on my HE R80. I found an oil leak coming out of the crankcase to the clutch. I bought new sealings. Everything is mounted but before I start my engine, I need to check that the timing (the postition of the magnets on the flywheel, relative to the coil) is correct. I don't find a procedure on the internet for my R80. I found one for the Top80: http://www.southwestairsports.com/ppgtechinfo/top80/hrservicenotes/timing/timing.htm Does anybody know if I can use the values from the Top80? Best regards, Kevin

Hello This is written in the manual for the R120: Withdraw the three bolts that maintain the reduction compartment onto the engine bloc and bring the reduction compartment down; ? Unscrew the venting valve 1; ? Drain all the oil into a recipient and then slowly fill in oil of specification Mouwan Gear 80W90 (www.kripton.es) until 0,055 l./1,7 fl OZ (US) are in the compartment. ? Fit the venting screw hand tight and put the reduction compartment back into place with the three screws (make sure that they are well tightening). ? Dispose of the used oil in a recycling container. Kevin

I am having trouble to split my crankcase. I used a bearing puller (two-arm) but I just bend the crankcase :-s. Does anyone knows how to do it properly? Thanks!

I think I found the problem. I did a test with my new prop, but the result was the same. After that I disassembled my prop and clutch and there was a little drop off oil, coming out between the crankshaft and the crankcase. I think that due to the oil my clutch is spinning and I have reduced thrust. I ordered new bearings and seals. I hope they will be delivered at the end of next week. I will post and update with the results.

Thanks for all te replies! I took some pictures from my clutch, had to put them in a .pfd file to reduce the size. My new prop doesn't solve the problem. In the drum bell is no oil, the thickness off the shoes is ok. Is it possible that the material from the shoes has degraded due to aging? My motor is older then 10 years.

I ordered a new carbon prop, should be delivered on Friday. I can borrow a strobe light from a friend so I can measure how much rpm the prop is spinning. Thanks for the responses.

That is correct!

Hello I hope that someone can help me solving my problem. I fly with an H&E R80 paramotor. A while ago I felt a loss of power at high RPM. Since last month, I can't take off due to lack of power. When I did a preflight check with the engine on my back at full RPM it was very hard to stand still, now I think I can stand on one leg... (didn't try it ). I bought the motor secondhand, so I thought it as time to change the piston, piston ring, cilinder and cilinder head. The gap squish is set, I changed the packings, I Always use fully synthetic oil with the ratio that's in the H&E manual. I did a proper break in and changed my spark plug. The spark plug gap is set correctly. After all the work I did a test and the problem was still there. A couple months ago I bought a new Walbro carburetor, I cleaned it, changed the diagrams, changed all the packings and placed new reeds. The color of my spark plug is ok. I set the gap between the coil and the flywheel but it didn't solve my problem. I also changed the coil and spark plug gap. Still no improvement. I checked the clutch, but it isn't worn. Last year I changed my fuel lines, last week I changed my fuel filter, I also have a new air filter. The stop switch works fine, did a measure with an ohm-meter. I am running out of ideas... I ordered a new propeller but it isn't delivered yet. I don't think the prop is the problem, it is a wooden prop with 30 hours flying time, it has no visible damage. Does anybody had similar problems? The engine starts from the first time, idle is good, high RPM is 9500 like before... All ideas and suggestions are very welcome!! Sincerely, Kevin