The top end of the primer should be attached via a P clip to the upper pull starter bolt. 

The height of the hang points must also play a part. On my machine with low hang points I feel every little bump but I have heard it said that on high hangpoint machines the effect is much less. I cannot comment on this personally as I have never flown anything other than low. 

Although it sounds like a carb issue, the next time you have the carb off it's a useful opportunity to check the condition of the reed valves. The four  bolts behind the carb attach the reed valve assembly, look for any cracks or damage to the carbon flaps or petals as they are commonly known. 

There are still lots of people flying this engine including myself, try the following website 

https://poliniparts.com

If you are looking to move up from a Universal, a Hadron xx is the opposite end of the scale and too much of a jump. 

You could look at Skydemon which gives you all charts worldwide for no extra cost 

No not free as Captain Kurt would have you believe, but then you could look at it that if you trained with Dell you would pay for "Super" training and only have the option of a Flattop and Dominator. 

As far as I am aware Flight Junkies offer free training only on the basis that you buy a Fresh Breeze paramotor, so somewhat option limiting in terms of equipment choice. 

Ok so I may be a bit behind the times on the latest Wing technology but I was reading last months Cross Country mag and saw a photo of Alex Mateos flying what I think is a Ozone Viper 4 and tied on the centre of the brake handle there is another line which runs down to a small pulley on the carabiner and then back up to the wing. The photo doesn't show where it terminates at the top end so can someone explain what its for, it obviously creates slack in this line when the brake is pulled down.

Just as an update to this topic which I started some time ago and the alternative use of a Briggs & Stratton starter. The starter is working great with no kickback issues so far, the only alteration I have had to make is changing the pawls for polini ones as the profile on the tips is different and the Briggs pawls didn't last long as a result. Otherwise very happy with it. 

I think CANP needs to be for a minimum of five pilots and the notification zone is quite small, probably better suited for a group of Paraglider pilots ridge soaring a hill side but of limited use to a solo Paramotor pilot who wants to go any real distance away from their launching field.

That's odd, I am currently insured with LV and have asked them on several occasions to cover me exactly as you have mentioned but they will not as soon as I tell them what a Paramotor is. Some people have suggested that you do not go into any detail in this explanation so as to fool them into thinking its nothing to do with aviation. In the event of making a claim they are going to find out exactly what it is for with or without my help. 

I use it essentially for QFE and just zero it prior to launch, then use a GPS based altimeter for everything else. 

I've had one of these for a few years now, great little bit of kit. 

Skywatch Xplorer 4

I'm yet to find any home  insurance policy that covers it, despite having been recommended insurers in the past from others who say they got their equipment covered by. When I tried they refused it. 

If anyone knows different please share the name of insurers. 

Blackhawk make a 250cc four stroke with fuel injection, 35 hp and 18 kg called the Intruder. I have never heard any reviews on it so cannot comment on how good it really is. 

I was considering getting heated gloves last winter then decided to try 'little hotties' hand warmers. Got a box of 40 pairs for about 17 quid on Amazon. No reliability issues or charging of batteries and one pair lasts about 10 hours giving off a good constant heat.

I have flown with about 5 times now and I much prefer the way it feels, however I noticed that on mine it looks like one of the pawls is taking more load than the other is there is a wear groove appearing in the tip of this one. I need to remove the starter to see if there is any reason why this could be. I know that loads of people are using this starter in place of the Polini flash unit and haven't heard of this problem with others so maybe it's just how mine is set up.

Why not wrap up warm and fly a few times over the winter, keep your skills honed and sharp as well rather than several months on the ground.

Weld a handle at 90 degrees to the spike so you can pull it out.

It basically is a new one, no signs of any use whatsoever just a slightly damaged box.

I have the old Thor 100 engine which came with the flash starter, I haven't had the rope in the prop issue but I have never been all that fond of it and parts of it seem to wear out quicker than I would like and last week I found that the main outer casing was broken which would appear to mean buying a whole new unit.

Thanks to Steve on the forum who mentioned recently about swapping his flash starter for a Briggs and Stratton manual starter I was able to find that you can get an as new Briggs and Stratton starter on Amazon market place for about £6 only.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B003O0PLC0/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

The hole pattern is a perfect match, the only mod I had to do was pack out the starter ring on the engine by 5mm using washers and longer bolts to enable it to engage nicely with the pawls. I haven't tried an engine start with it yet so cannot comment on that but its looks like it will be fine.

This is crazy money for a good quality replacement starter and I just wanted to share it with other Polini owners.

I still have a Parajet V2 with the 3 piece cage and there is no gap at the top at all, it seems that for the sake of extra convenience of a 4 piece cage on the V3 the safety in this regard was compromised and it is one if the key factors why I haven't got one. I know that some will say that so long as you start it on your back it shouldn't be a problem but I am of the opinion that if something can find a way through the gap unexpectedly it then sod's law says it will.

I have the Thor 100 and it has leaked to some degree from the exhaust manifold join since day one. The design of it is poor in the sense that when you tighten the two nuts to attach the short manifold section it distorts the flange so tightening them more to try and cure the leak only makes it worse. I have gone through about 4 or 5 gaskets now, each of which will start off ok with only minor drips and after a while the extent of the leaking gets worse with oil running all down the crankcase after each flight. 

It seems that all you can do is make sure the flange isn't badly distorted then fit a new gasket and don't over torque the nuts.

I will be interesting to know if you get any kickback from the Briggs starter. I too have the Thor 100 and after 4 1/2  years of ownership its only had a couple problems one being the flash starter spring breaking and the other was the pawls wearing out.