GerardTC

On 08/12/2020 at 22:41, Jim Sutton said:

@GerardTC  Have you checked Had Robinson's excellent Polini motor information of his Southwest AirSports website?

https://www.southwestairsports.com/ppgtechinfo/polinithor/polinithor.htm

This is a very knowledgeable guy putting large amounts of great information on the Web for all our benefit.

Thank you Jim!

Fortunately I sold this engine a couple of months ago. For those interested in Polini motors... stay away from them!

They are heavy, unreliable and difficult to tune and disassembly. The only advantage is that when they are correctly tuned they are very smooth and powerful.

Regards

I am selling my PAP paramotor with a Polini Thor 200 engine. About 190 hours of flight time.

The piston and cylinder need to be replaced (link to PAP). There is a hole in the piston and the cylinder wall is a bit damaged.

Parts I changed recently:
Reed valve
High Flow kit (fuel pump, airbox, carb, cylinder head)
Fan
Gaskets

Harness is size Large. 125cm carbon prop + spare 130cm prop with a small hit.

Asking 1800 GBP.

Hi all,

This post is addressed to the Admin but I'm curious to know what other users think about it.

I find browsing on mobile devices very annoying and intrusive due to the sticky ads at the top. Even if I close them they appear over and over again... And they take about 20% of the vertical space (in a 6" phone).

As a UX/UI designer let me tell you this is a big no no for usability.
This forum doesn't have a large volume of visits, so the advertising revenue must be low, very low. Assuming 50K visits/month (I am being very generous) the revenue is less than 3GBP/month. Is it really worth it? There are better ways to monetize a website.

Please take it as a constructive criticism.

Gerard

1 hour ago, Pete S said:

I agree with the two previous posters, the problem lies with the inlet needle and its seat. I think you have wear such that the needle seats and seals at times but does not at other times. I would replace them and retest.

This carburetor is almost new. Less than 5 hours of use

Hi again,

I sent the carburetor to PAP so they can take a closer look. They adjusted the float height but yesterday I tried the engine and the carburetor keeps flooding (a lot) and stalling the engine.

I wonder if the problem could be caused by the fuel pump...

Hi all,

I installed the HF kit for my Thor 200 (new carb, airbox, head cylinder, reed valve...).
The problem I am experiencing is caused by the carburetor. The engine runs smooth but after a while (sometimes after few minutes, sometimes after increasing rpm) it overflows and floods the engine...

In this video you can see the gasoline leaking not through the lower overflow tubes but from the valve pointing up: 

In the pic attached I marked the valve.

I suspect it is related to the float height but after some adjustments nothing improves... Can anyone give me any advice?

Thanks in advance

Stay away from Polinis. The most unreliable engines out there!

Hi there,

After some adjustments to the carburetor of my Thor200, yesterday I made a 2h flight. The engine performed very well and the CHT in level flight never never exceeded 160ºC. Consumption was low. About 3,8 l/h.

However, after inspecting the spark plug I am afraid it's running lean. What do you think?

Thanks in advance

Selling my Ozone Roadster 3 24m in red, white and blue.

Bought it this year and put 15 hours on it.
Almost new. Excellent condition. No repairs, pores or scratches. Always stored indoor.

Comes with the original bags, stickers, repair kit and speed bar.

The reason I am selling it is because I'll go for a more advanced wing, probably the Speedster.

Asking 2700€ / £2300

More pics coming soon,

Regards

11 hours ago, Bell407 said:

Good information Gerard!  Your all up weight is a bit less than mine, which ideally puts you in the "correct" range for a 24 meter.  Did you come from a 24 meter wing prior to the Roadster or have you ever flown a 26?  I will assume no based on what Ozone specifies in their wing size to weight charts.

This is my very first wing. I did the course with a 28m non-reflex wing, but it's not comparable to the R3.
Maybe I should go for the 22m R3. I am on a Thor 200 (32kg) and I've got plenty of power... my level flight is around 5000rpm.

I have the R3 24. It's my first wing and I have about 20h on it. My all up weight is about 115 kg.

Inflation and take off is quite easy (I have a 200cc engine ), even in nil wind. Trims are nice, with about 10km/h difference between trims in and trims out.

My only concern is that it responds slow to brake inputs. To improve maneuverability and response I attached the tip steering lines to the main brakes. The results are noticeable but still feels a bit slow (in the turns) for me.

Regards!

On 06/11/2019 at 15:34, Mark Morgan said:

Stator should read 300ohm's + or - 10%  if your running a regulator bin it there crap!! most failures i see are due to regulator malfunction. should be max 14.8v some i've seen tested are pumping out 19volts.. 

idle air screw 1-1.5 turns out.. Have you fitted the correct new prop with the HF kit.. 

Sorry for the delay,

Only the Thor 200 with electrical starter has a regulator. Mine doesn't.

Yesterday I tried the engine with the new stator on the ground. Fortunately it started at the first pull (after weeks grounded) and the RPM at idle stayed constant. About 2000 rpm +- 50.

This weekend I'll see how it behaves in flight.

Regards!

On 12/10/2019 at 14:25, FlexFlying said:

My guess first off if you've fitted the new carb that comes with the kit it's probably the best place to start.... However, don't be shy at checking the stator and your earth's.... Stators are an increasingly common issue on these. And for the sake of a 2 second ohms test could be the first easiest test to try even before even touching the carb.... A nightmare to do however.... Especially since you've probably just done all the work you need to do putting the kit on.

Let us know how ye get on.

 

Ps if the stator is fine.... It might be worth just trying the old carb on first just to see how it runs with it before stripping down new carb to tune it up and change jets etc

 

You were right! Last day I couldn't start my engine. Checked the spark plug and the spark was very weak and inconsistent during the start pulls. A mechanic (who is also a pilot) tested the stator with a multimeter and confirmed it is fried...

3 hours ago, FlexFlying said:

My guess first off if you've fitted the new carb that comes with the kit it's probably the best place to start.... However, don't be shy at checking the stator and your earth's.... Stators are an increasingly common issue on these. And for the sake of a 2 second ohms test could be the first easiest test to try even before even touching the carb.... A nightmare to do however.... Especially since you've probably just done all the work you need to do putting the kit on.

Let us know how ye get on.

 

Ps if the stator is fine.... It might be worth just trying the old carb on first just to see how it runs with it before stripping down new carb to tune it up and change jets etc

 

Thanks for your suggestion,

After few tests I've finally found the correct adjustment for my carb.

Hight jet: 140
Low jet: 42
Needle clip: middle position
Air screw. 1+ 1/8 turn out.

Engine runs very smooth on the medium range. No more jumps from 5000 rpm to +6000rpm. Tops at 7850. Drastic reduction in CH temp (20-30 ºC in medium range and 40-50 ºC in max range)

However I still have some issues...

• Rough idle. Jumps constantly from 1400 to 2500 rpm. Not a problem when flying.
• I have some leaks from the spark plug. I've realized that I don't have the small washer that should be placed between the CH and the spark plug cooler (see pic 1). I've tried to replace it with the temp gauge but it still leaks.

Does anyone have the thickness measurements of this washer? And should I remove the washer that all spark plugs have at the top (pic 2)?

Thanks in advance

80cc for a 90kg pilot? In my ppg club (about 100 pilots) these engines are only used by students and light guys. Most of us are in the 125-200cc range.
I am 72 kg and have a Thor 200. Once I am in the air I have the peace of mind that I can gain altitude without problems. The only drawback is the weight (31kg)

I recommend you to try a more powerful engine than the 80 and then decide.

4 hours ago, coolhand said:

Just for reference, I fly my 200 evo (no HF-kit, sealevel) with the following settings:

• Main Jet: 146
• Idle:42
• Needle pos: 2.

I found the pwk carb very sensitive for float adjustment, however when adjusted correct it will operate super all-year around (I fly Aspen fuel).

What is the max rpm of your engine? Do you change jets in hotter or cooler temps?

Regards

For those who have problems like me to adjust a PWK carburetor, I found something interesting.

The image attached is the jetting chart provided by KTM for their 2 stroke bikes with a PWK carburetor (model PWK-S 36AG).
Take it as a reference for a smaller carb like the PWK 28.

I am tuning the carb at about 200m altitude and most of the times I fly between 200 and 500m. Spanish climate, currently it's 20-25ºC but in winter season we fly at 5-15ºC.

Since this carburetor is very sensitive, in colder temperatures I will probably need to go for bigger jets. On the contrary, in higher altitude flights (+1000m) I'll need to go for smaller jets.

1 hour ago, steelmesh said:

Better check the reeds or replace them since it looks like you're doing a complete refresh.  If the reeds are good then sounds like maybe an air leak somewhere or your carb is not setup right.  Is there a pop-off valve in your carb?  Down the road you might need to pressurize the crankcase to check all the seals.

Also, is compression within specifications?

Thanks for your response.

Today I replaced the reed valve and changed the main jet to a smaller one (140). Fortunately the engine revs up better and reaches 7800 rpm. Spark plug colour looks good.

However the idle is still very rough... between 1500 and 2500 rpm (is it normal?). I tried bigger and smaller pilot jets without noticing major differences.

Next I will measure the piston squish clearance and compression but I have no references. Does anyone know these values?

Thanks in advance!

BTW, thumbs down for Polini's information and documentation on their engines. I only found a couple of PDF with very little information. 

Hi there,

Need some help to adjust the carburetor of my Thor 200 engine (recently upgraded with the HF kit).
After installing all the new parts (carb, air box, head, and fuel pump) the engine doesn't run very smooth. Here are the symptoms:

- Rough idle. Jumps from 1500 to 2500 rpm (1800 is ideal).
- Doesn't go higher than 7000 rpm. Should reach 7800-8000 rpm

I tried to unscrew 1/4 turn the air screw and the rpm reaches 7200 but the color of the spark plug indicates a lean mixture.

What would you recommend me to solve this issues?

The actual carburetor settings are:

Main jet: 142
Pilot jet: 45
Needle clip: middle
Air screw: 1 turn out.

Thanks in advance!

4 hours ago, admin (Simon W) said:

I am like 70% sure that it's a card / paper type gasket from the pipe to the silencer... 

What was in there when you took it apart? 

SW

 

Hi Simon,
No gaskets between the silencer and muffler connection. Only some rests of a silicon sealer.

Hi there,

I have painted the muffler of my Thor 200 and now I have to put it back together.
Which sealer do you recommend for the connection with the silencer and the exhaust flange?

Thanks in advance

Thanks for your answer @Mark Morgan

I didn't find much information about the High Flow Kit for the Thor 200.

Some questions if you don't mind:

• Which carburetor does it mount? Does it leak fuel if not positioned vertically? Is it difficult to set (adjustments with mixture, idle, jets...)? The PWK is a nightmare...
• Is the claimed temperature drop real? On my Thor 200 the spark temp ranges between 180 and 200ºC. Up to +230ºC at max RPM.
• Is it easy to install with some mechanical knowledge and the right tools?

Thanks in advance!

The modification is very simple. Just untie the tip line, pull it out from the ring and connect it to the brake handle with a bowline.