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AndyB

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Posts posted by AndyB

  1. 7 hours ago, morgy said:

    Not harsh at all as they still supply Polini engines and bailey engines with float bowl style carbs.. If you do need to prime a Walbro style carb it is easy to adapt/Make a remote system..   For pilots who do thermal/ridge soar little things like this are normally overlooked.. ;-)

    Yes, Thor 190, elec start. I find that after the engine is off for a few mins it won't re-start. This even means that after warming up engine before flight, it needs a quick re-prime before strapping in and going - failure to do so is rather annoying....especially when on my own. However, I have found that that just pressurising the fuel line with the bulb, whilst turning over the engine also works. Thus, if I move the priming bulb, should be problem solved. :)

    Has anyone moved the primer somewhere better? If so where? I am not familiar with other makes as learned on Parajet etc.

  2. On 23/06/2016 at 10:44, Hodders said:

    But I imagine that the state of tune is very different. Not many scooter owners would put up with the 10/50/100 hour checks and service parts.

    I seriously think that for the majority of pilots electric is the future. Once we get a 20kg unit with a 60 minute cruise time on a single charge I'm sold. You could even add more battery cells for longer duration, just like we add more fuel now.

    My 35kg half scale RC plane has a 14kw elec motor. Even with 12kg of batteries it will only give 10 to 12 mins on medium power and 7 mins on high power (aerobatics). 

  3. Just for completeness......even a charger designed for a lipo can still result in a very large fire. They don't usually explode, well not until the first cell that fails and is burning heats up the one next to it. I fly model planes and back in the early days of lipos (2001) I charged them on top of a 12" ceramic tile for safety. Bad idea. When the lipo caught fire the tile got so hot it just burned through the unit under it. 

    Lipos should only be charged with a good balance charger that effectively charges each cell individually and hence keeps each cell voltage within spec. Also, use a fire-proof charging bag, because they do still go up in flames occasionally.

     

    • Upvote 2
  4. On 10/03/2017 at 21:37, GR002 said:

    I bought a decent quality non return valve http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-T3-T25-Golf-6mm-1-4-Fuel-Check-Valve-Non-Return-Petrol-Diesel-3A0201542-A7-/162414528435?hash=item25d0a907b3:g:ZKMAAOxyVLNS-RJ8

     to my Moster, I fitted it Just as fuel pipe leaves tank, I drilled out the non return valve on bottom side of the primer bulb (as not needed ). Now the fuel pipe stays full of petrol, even after a week lying the pipe is still full. I set up the lever height and the pop off pressure to 14 psi. Blocked middle low jet and filed a notch in butter fly flap in carb in line of low jets and tuned the hi and low screws. I can now confidently start the paramotor on my back now and idle is smooth also can start in the air after being off for a while. Any start after first start is just half a pull on starter. The low screw takes a bit of setting up and less than an eight of a turn will knock it out of tune.

    Will an NRV for diesel last long with petrol?

  5. On 26/02/2017 at 11:37, morgy said:

    If you have a walbro carb these can suffer from vapour lock making it hard to re-start in flight.. 

    I find dislocating my right shoulder and reaching behind for the priming bulb works well. The problem is my arm then won't work any more!

    Has anyone got the priming bulb where you can reach it?

    As an alternative I have considered fitting a very small electric pump that can be run for 5 seconds to do the priming. Anyone done this?

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