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gordon_dunn

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Posts posted by gordon_dunn

  1. The variables are infinite, but generally higher the better.  Most cc trips i do i'd be at least 800ft-1000ft, but the wind is the big factor.  If travelling with the wind i'd even go higher to fully maximise it's power.

     

    GD

    • Upvote 1
  2. Sounds like membrane in carb could be leeky....  wouldn't take much of a hole or crack to upset the metering.   The membrane should be changed every year regardless of use.  Its a very annoying problem when it happens, because just when you think it's ok- it will let you down again.

    GD

  3. " been over enthusiasm in Not looking up at wing to see where it was, or what or how it was behaving and yes i know the experienced don't need to look, well neither did i last time i tried but there was 100% no wind that day, so maybe that tonight's wind was just a little to much for  "    

    I'd still do a quick visual check if I'm doing forwards when there is wind, but when there is zero wind, I find that the visual check too early can put me off.  I think the best approach to zero wind forwards is  'full commitment' and a positive attitude... keep the eyes forward, and keep moving forwards and the wing will follow you.   Keep a little pressure on the risers as you go-  don't grip them, just push them and the wing will follow....   When the wing is up, it will feel right- keep running and when you're sure it's OK give full throttle.  When it's done right, you can actually feel the transition of the wing - pretty amazing feeling....  

     

    GD

  4. I know this topic has been aired a few times on here, but has anyone any experience of flying downwind in close proximity of tubines?  I've just been granted permission to use an excellent field, but there are 2 wind turbines on the northern perimeter of the field.... but a bit reluctant to give it a go.    My only fear is turbulence-  generally I follow the 'avoid 2X the height and 4x the distance' rule.... but might be different with turbines?????

     

    GD

     

     

  5. 2 hours ago, admin (Simon W) said:

    Can any of you help to identify this person? I would like to offer some free theory lessons to him / her. :-)

    Let's not get all 'pitch forks' there is clearly someone having fun who is lacking some vital knowledge that I / we can help :-) 

    SW :D

     

    Not just foolish flying.... but can you imagine how irritating that would be for people just out to relax on the beach....!

    gd

    2 hours ago, admin (Simon W) said:

     

     

  6. Had similar issue on my Miniplane initially, but they recommended a concial copper washer between the exhaust and cylinder exhaust mount to solve the issue.   Worked fine.  I think the Miniplane washer is a custom one designed for Miniplane only though.

    gd

  7. On 20/03/2017 at 08:02, powerlord said:

    So this week I'll be picking up my new Air Conception. It will spend most of its like in my motorhome garage, BUT as it's a bit faffy to put the cage together,etc - I thought it would be nice to have an option to be able to store it fully assembled for short periods.

    Basic idea is - if I'm touring about a small area it saves disassembling every time - or you find a spot, set up, wind changes, etc and it makes it much easier to admit defeat, store it, and drive somewhere else rather than make the mistake of persisting.

    So - bike rack was a 4 bike rack on back of my van. Rated to 75kg.

    I've stripped it down to 2 bikes as never need more than that - and added a riveted on aluminium plate to accept the paramotor.

    That's progress so far, as I can't do anything else with mount points, etc till I actually get the thing, but I thought I'd post now, so it's a sort of build log.

    I'm not going to be driving long distances with it on back, or along motorways, etc. But unlike with a car mount, there's not really the air resistance problem since the van's done the job of removing all of that.

    And the air conception only weighs 30kg full of fuel, so I'm well within load limit of rack.

    Plan is, it can just plop in there and quickly be secured/unsecured.

    When I'm done for the day - it gets dissassembled as much as required to fit in the boot at the back.

    The boot did have my 2 old paramotors in it disassembled, so is a decent size, but is quite narrow and not that tall - it's going to take some trial and error this week to find out how AC best fits in there and can be secured - ideally without removing the prop. super ideally - leaving some of cage attached. I'll post those pics here too.

     

    20170320_075822.jpeg

    20170320_075839.jpeg

    Interesting reg number-  Northern Ireland based?????

    • Downvote 1
  8. 5 hours ago, powerlord said:

    That's a nicely engineered mount Gordon. is that zinc coated too ? Did you built it yourself ?

     

    stu

    Thanks Stu..... I did the drawings and a colleague got the parts laser cut and welded.  It was around the same price to get it galvanised, compared to paint- but the galvansing is a much better job- certainly don't need to worry about knocks and scrapes.   The unit is designed for a 125cm prop Miniplane.   There is a chance he'd make you one- I can get a price if you're interested?   Fits a Berlingo/Partner very well.

     

  9. 2 hours ago, kiwi k said:

    GD's got me thinking about insurance now :?: always keep mine indoors over winter, not that i'm expecting a problem but better check in the small print just incase B|.

    Mightn't be such a serious issue if the fuel is totally drained, and fuel lines and carb emptied....  But best check with the insurers anyhow.  I've heard of case where they didn't pay up after an incident involving a moped in a stairwell.

  10. I'd definitely keep it out of the house for safety reasons alone.  The risk of fuel vapor is too dangerous- potentially explosive.  I think you'll find on your house insurance small print- that storage of petrol internal combustion engines within the house will void your policy.-- Worth checking, but I'd go for the external storage, or find a friend with a big barn.

     

    GD

  11. 2 hours ago, smurff said:

    Do none of these mobile apps show where lines are e.g. like some sat navs show speed cameras?

    Even if it was possible to do this, you'd spend more time looking at the app than looking out where you were flying- lines are everywhere!

    My tip- don't try so hard looking for the lines. Pre-empt where there are likely to be lines, follow roads, near settlements, isolated houses, etc.. and assume there are lines nearbly and dont fly low anywhere until you are sure the area is 'line free'- it ususally takes a scout from the ground for me to be 100% sure.  Also remember it's easier to spot the poles than the lines.

     

    GD

  12. The real skill is not just knowing how to fly, but knowing when not to.

     

     

    I've a strict 10mph limit for windspeed at ground level.   Technically you can launch a higher speeds, but theres just no real fun in battling against stronger winds-  I tend to concentrate flying on the days that it gives best enjoyment- dry, low or no wind, etc....  

  13. Do you have a right hand or left hand throttle?

    Right hand seems to be very common, but I learned on an Adventure machine with a left hand throttle and I've got used to it now- wouldn't have it any other way.  The left hand throttle is handier when it comes to using cameras, etc.....

    I've had 2 H&Es and a Miniplane since, and opted for the left hand throttles each time.

    • Upvote 2
  14. A great wing- my first wing was an Action 27 too.   Good safe wing in the air, fast and stable but just a bit tricky to launch in low wind. Speed is the key on take off, you need to just keep the eyes forward and learn to feel when the wing is right, and you'll be OK.  Keep at it, you'll soon have it mastered.   A great wing for reverse takeoffs- but only if wind is around 7mph or higher.

  15. In it's simplest form....

     

    Upper edge of aerofoil is longer that the bottom

    Path that the air takes over the top of the wing is longer than the bottom of the wing

    Time for the air to travel from the front to the back of the wing is the same- therefore the air taking the top route has to go faster than the air taking the bottom route.

    As the air on the top route is 'stretched', it's density or pressure is lower than the air on the underside of the wing

    Air wants to move from areas of high pressure to low pressure- therefore the underside of the wing exerts a 'lifting' force on the wing.

     

     

     

     


     

  16. Cas- yes my Top 80 (Miniplane) has the tube primer method too, and it seems a great idea- very simple, and very little to go wrong with it.   Generally I find that I really only need to prime the engine after a long session without running....   If restarting an engine during a flight, generally i don't need to prime at all....  I only prime the engine at the first flight during a days flying.

  17. I think you might find that the carb membranes may have dried out and could have developed small perforations/cracks.....  This would cause the problems you described... working OK at low RPM then leaning out and stopping intermittently.  The membranes control the fuel metering and are critical components. It's recommended you change them every year, regardless of flight hours.  Also check your fuel pipes for tiny leeks- the fuel primer bulb is also a notorious contender for causing trouble- sometimes the rubber hardens and small cracks allow air in which throws off the metering too....    If not used for a long time, sometimes the non-return valve can stick also.  Again replace every 2 years for peace of mind.   
    The carb membrane kits are not too expensive.

     

     

     

    GD

    • Upvote 2
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