Jump to content

PatPux

Members
  • Posts

    713
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17

Posts posted by PatPux

  1. I agree, Ive got them for the stuff that comes  in and out, I use these for the things that are meant to stay put and are velcroed to the flight deck

  2. Its not always about expensive kit!  I know there's hundreds of these things on ebay, and lets face it theyre all cheap as chips, so theres no risk in trying them,and I have, but theyre usually pretty crap. So  I thought I'd mention these that arrived today as being the best I'd come across to date.

    Discreet, well made, little clips for lanyarding all those little bits and pieces on your flight deck

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182321687951?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=484867486385&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITIMG_4416.thumb.JPG.e0f600aa1eaef005a8b2487273e0bdf2.JPG

  3. 3 minutes ago, Garry said:

    After I've landed I just walk off the field and load it straight on, easy :-D

    Garry, I have mine the other way round as Tony does. I considered both ways when I was fabricating it and It would be good to have it as yours so you could just plonk it down straight off your back, but I like to be able to use mine as a nice safe rig on which I can start the machine off my back to warm it up......so I do have suffer the inconvenience of putting it on by hand.

  4. 53 minutes ago, morgy said:

    Saying that on the Older Volutions the seat plate can get caught up on the tank so not allowing it to slide right up behind you.. (shown in your fist set of photos) From memory there is a Ridge that can be smoothed out to allow better movement of the seat base, or it can catch on the chassis crass brace..  

    Thanks, that is useful, I'll check both those out, because it certainly looks lie it isnt sliding right up behind me, hopefully having moved the hangpoint back one hole and pitching myself forward a little will all help. I wonder if slackening the leg straps a little while still in the seat before landing, so I drop a bit lower , would help.

  5. 1 hour ago, admin (Simon W) said:

    That's deffo a Parajet Compact V1 manual with the V2 branding in the corner. 

    You will I am sure, come to the same conclusion :-) 

    SW :D

    I've got to the bottom of it . It is a V2 Manual, 

    V1 Manual https://www.parajet.com/docs/Parajet-Volution1-PilotsManual.pdf

    V2 Manual  https://www.parajet.com/docs/Parajet-Volution2-PilotsManual.pdf

    But they used the same page to demonstrate the hang point set up, actually quite a few of the pages are borrowed.

    • Upvote 1
  6. 4 minutes ago, Hann__ said:

    On your diagram does the arrow point forward?

    If so, as you say - as pilot weight increases x will reduce to balance the moments so the pivot point will move back (towards the left on your pic)?

    The c of g on that paramotor is behind the pivot point?

    In your pic you say x needs to decrease but you say the pivot point moves forward (increasing x)..?

    x decreases (and y increase) , the pivot point gets closer to Wp-moves left. Not sure how else to say it. As the pilot gets heavier the pivot point and the Pilot weight hang point get closer and closer together........x decreases

  7. 30 minutes ago, admin (Simon W) said:

    It looks to me as though you have a manual for a V1 compact. :-) 

    They are just holes for finding a balance nothing more. Whatever works for you as it were..... 

    The engine fitted can make a difference even if the same weight if it pokes out a little further increasing the 'moment' your shape can also effect this. 'get me with me heli chatter' 

    The 65-75kg (as per V1 manual, your second set of images) looks good to me. 

    SW :D

    No its a V2 Manual, the clues in the bottom left of the picture :D Unless PJ have posted the wrong file

    Anyway, I take your point and Im going to have a go with the second set up (4th hole/65-75kg), keep a firm hold of the brakes if  I am pitched too far forward and they get close to the cage and be ready to come straight back down

  8. Calling all pilots that weigh around 105kg nakid, and fly a Parajet Macro V2. (or anyone else with an opinion) What hang point position due you use and how would that make you describe your flying position.

    If I was really going to be specific, I'd include with a Moster 185 Plus and a NucleonXX 28.

    I am very pitched back on landing and it has been suggested that, that may be  partly why I land on my arse rather than my feet. However I am already on hole 3 for the hang point arm position (75-90kg acccording to the manual) and to go back to position 4 would put me in the 65-75kg pilot weight - I weigh 105kg

    Photos are of static hang test one fully seated and one pushing forward and down as if for landing and thirdly on landing recently, (when actually I did land on my feet)

    Thoughts?

    17357772_598217690383392_1442599767_o.thumb.jpg.8d8619775e657a9285225253bf908fb8.jpg17357286_598218040383357_808009663_o.thumb.jpg.c7bb716d3ebe6fb089b71e509b6560a0.jpg17360794_10155240400097868_1541932371_n.jpeg.b4130653f1bdc2be5102685858ba2590.jpeg

  9. 1 hour ago, powerlord said:

    I got some of these a while back for my drones..

     

    they are mentally bright.. would probably get ideal for PPG usage tbh and only 5 quid including ESC for up to 6s

    http://www.banggood.com/Xenon-Night-Strobe-Flash-Light-Automatic-for-RC-Multicopter-p-1022677.html?rmmds=search

    They look interesting, might try some of them. I built mine originally with one of these modules http://www.xenonflashtubes.com/12v-power-strobe.html. and a fresnel lense. This was bright enough to be seen on a gloomy day nearly 2 miles away when I was flying last year down in Cornwall.

     

  10. 14 hours ago, powerlord said:

    take the battery rectifier/charger out the equation - it's just added complexity you don't need.

    power the strobe via the lipo directly if the strobe will take your lipo voltage, but you don't mention what that is ? 3s 4s 5s ?

    If it is a 12v strobe, I'd suggest adding a 12v ESC or a step down buck converter. they cost about 2-5 quid. This will regulate the lipo to 12v for the strobe and will keep that voltage constant as the lipo discharges.

     

    stu

    BEng Hon Electronic & Electrical Engineering :-)

    The strobes Ive used have been quite tolerant of input voltage and I havent used  any regulation when using upto a 4S, It  just increases the flash frequency as the capacitor charges quicker with increasing voltage. Just noticed his photo shows a 5S......(not surprised it starts easily now with 18.5V), so that might flash the strobe a bit too quickly

  11. Never charge a Lipo with anything other than a charger designed for LiPo charging, there is a serious risk of explosion.

    You could use the engine charge to run the strobe with proper regulation, but the engine charge circuit must not be connected directly to the LiPo

    If I was doing it I would simply forget the Engine charging circuit and use the Lipo for starting and strobe with charging as required between flights with a proper LiPo charger.

    There's lots on the interweb about the dangers of mis charging LiPos. Eg http://www.propwashed.com/lipo-battery-charging-basics/.

     

×
×
  • Create New...