noddyc

I agree with that ...... Weight becomes an issue very fast.

This is the idea  that I had .

Hopefully  the sketch explain it better

On 06/11/2019 at 16:02, steelmesh said:

That sounds like a clever layout!   Probably shave a little weight off compared to other configurations. 

If someone develops an electric foot launch paramotor with a warranty right now and goes to market, it would be at least $20k and would probably still use off-the-shelf components and would still have an embarassing flight time. Anything cheaper would be some backyard built design that is a project in itself to use, and they probably make you buy your own batteries so they don't have to deal with managing energy storage.

The idea to use an electric motor in tandem is not to be able to fly with it ,more to help with take-off. 

If you use an motor as I suggested you could use an 2kw motor and when you use it , you could over load it up to 4-6 kW for 30 seconds with no problem  ,then you are up and it can cool down 

In this time you would empty  all power from the "batteries".

I would use a Brushless 3 phase motor  because  the are compact ,light and efficient (in the monster efi system they use that same idea with a 3phase Brushless motor  for power )

My ppg engine I would use would be a top80/atom 80 size to keep it very small,  charging would be at properly at max 500 watt ( let it charge over an hour to no affect performance)

Hi

My thoughts.

I would not use the "paramotor " engine for power ,they are not design for that, service intervals would be almost every week depending on use.........

If you look at the Honda gx200  engine that  gets used in the "egg motor projects "and for racing. 

It is designed to run at around 20 percent of full potential  ,at that it will happily run for years, gets used in everything .

If you take the same motor , change piston , conrod,  etc you can get it up to 22hp. At this power output you would have to service /rebuild it almost after "every race " as it gets used at it limits.

This is the same for all aviation. A car engine runs at about 20 percent power while aviation  engines normally  run at 75 to 80 percent power , this is why service is done regularly. 

To  get any to of my messages  ,sign in, etc I  change from mobile to desktop version  on my phone.

11 hours ago, admin (Simon W) said:

On 21/08/2017 at 06:26, noddyc said:

ite interested in it .

Casey

Casey, 

We became dealers for the Paracell a year ago We are just about to order a couple for a TV show I am working on in the future.

SW

Simon, send me details 

Casey

I had a bigger prop once, slipped on takeoff and broke it, this one I have not yet manage to brake, even with a few crash landings

On 17/03/2020 at 17:16, alan_k said:

There is the Bailey hornet plus others about.

Norbert used to fly a twin cylinder direct prop drive for many years, about 320cc and heavy but very reliable, trying to think of the make, JPX 320 perhaps?

Hi Alan

This is my jpx330 on a zenith frame, been at PMC fly ins a few times, heavy but reliable and cool. 

 Steelmesh

I would use the propellor hub/pully assembly , use a brushless motor, redesign it and cut grooves on the outside of the motor to run the drive belt over it - use the motor body as my redrive pully.

These  motors work very well as generators, that is how motorbike alternators are design (3 phases with a 3phase rectifier to get it to DC) 

That makes it very compact.

I was looking into building an electric paramotor and gave up after calculated that I need at least 287  lithium 18650 cells to get to at least 30min of flight time, and make it reliable. 

On 21/02/2018 at 23:18, Chance Waite said:

Something I have been thing about lately and may very well do, if I can figure out the particulars...I wanted to somehow acquire  a used paramotor frame on a trike and use a 2000W generator to provide a direct A/C current to a 80kv brushless motor. Seeing as how the power supplied from teh generator is 120v, I am not sure if I need to "step-down" the voltage, since the motor is rated at 70v, using a step-down device (power supply) or if I can just use a heavy duty ESC to do this for me, along with a servo to meter the power and thus the speed to the motor. Any thoughts on how I could accomplish this or is it even possible? I am looking to extend the flight time by mounting a "super-quiet" or some other variety of generator to the paramotor frame rather than a standard gas engine, or batteries in the case of an elec motor,  to power the prop. Is there some kind of "supply and demand" law I am violating or some other reason people resort to using batteries in this sort of an application rather than a generator?

The best way to approach this would be to get a small paramotor engine  (belt driven with clutch) and convert the propeller drive pully to a brushless electric motor  then you  could then run this as a hybrid , you could use that motor as a 3phase generator, for charging when you run the engine ( charging would have to be closely controlled or you would overload the engine). 

When the engine is stationery, the centrifugal clutch would disconnect and you could use the motor or you would be able to to use them together as well.  There would be quite a bit of electronic's and separate controllers involved to control and switch everything 

Alternator is around 75% efficient 

Motors is around 80 - 90%max efficiency if you are lucky 

Current draw at 72V   ,  13 kW =185amps

Heat, loss, bearings, electronics, batteries, charging,  etc will add even more losses

Hope this make sense, this is how they are integrating drone engines/motors. They use the motors to help with take-off. 

On 13/09/2019 at 19:23, Neilzy said:

So I’ve treated myself to a nice pair of Hanwags and struggling to find the right fit. I’m usually a size UK 10 but found them to tight so promptly swapped for a UK 10.5 but finding as tight was expecting a more significant feel etc so do I get a 11 or a 11.5 I appreciate that as new boots they going to be tight but how much should I expect them to give what’s the thoughts people.

I have been wearing hanwags, I am a size 8 but have to buy them in size 9.

When they are new they are so stiff that I have to undo them to drive. I walk through my soles after 3 years of everyday use. 

The best investment I have made, saved my ankles on many hard landings. 

I love them

On 27/07/2019 at 03:05, doubledeez said:

Cool beans!  I'm looking at the EGT sensor on the Fly Henry web page.  Do you know, by chance, the ohmic values of that sensor?  I have a chinese meter that does cht, hourmeter, rpm.....it came with a temp probe for the head that reads in the higher resistance band and will not work with thermocouples that ohm in the 0-5 ohms range like my fluke meter probe and the probe (k type) I bought from here: http://thesensorconnection.com/cht-sensors/cht-sensors/cht-cylinder-head-temperature-12-and-14-mm

 

 

Hi, checked the values 

My cht and egt uses the same thermal unit, you could swap them around and they still work perfect 

27 degree's 

Egt : 4.42 ohm

Cht : 4.42 ohm

100 degree's 

Egt :4.58

15 hours ago, doubledeez said:

Cool beans!  I'm looking at the EGT sensor on the Fly Henry web page.  Do you know, by chance, the ohmic values of that sensor?  I have a chinese meter that does cht, hourmeter, rpm.....it came with a temp probe for the head that reads in the higher resistance band and will not work with thermocouples that ohm in the 0-5 ohms range like my fluke meter probe and the probe (k type) I bought from here: http://thesensorconnection.com/cht-sensors/cht-sensors/cht-cylinder-head-temperature-12-and-14-mm

 

 

I have no idea what the resistance is, will see if I can get hold of a meter to check it. 

I have not seen the O2 work on the 200 but suspect they put it there to get out of the flame path. 

When I got it I was told that they had only 1 hotspot after tuning it. It was running grey on the spark plug. 

I fitted a FLY HENRY  unit, egt sensor in the bung and it gave me the exact same  spot,  it is very sensitive, you can actually see the exact start of the leaning out and as you add throttle you can see where it stops. 

This is where I got it fitted on my eos. 

I have a Polini  thor 200 with an o2  sensor bung and it was fitted at he bend around 200-250mm from the engine, I fitted an temp sensor and it work very well there. 

20 hours ago, Scott Harcourt said:

Hi mate.

Robert Ferrero is a main dealer for EOS, a sound guy. 

https://wasppg.com/

 

Thank Scott 

Spoke to Robert

I have one of the first generation eos150's.

My temp running is between 228-234 degrees under the spark plug,  545 degrees exhaust temperature. 

I have to be carefully on the throttle or my cylinder head climb to over 250 degrees very easy  while my egt stays fairly stable. 

Spark plug is light black

I use around 6 liter an hour trims out. (roadsters 26)

Need some advice :

I have one of the first generation eos motors 

Who keeps eos150 parts in stock  , need a new pullstart, mine stop working (catching) over the weekend. 

42 minutes ago, admin (Simon W) said:

I think they are doing renewals but no new policies unless this has changed recently? 

@noddyc did you have it before, or did you take out a new policy, if so.. when? 

SW

 

I took it out last year around September.

I contacted the PMC insurers and they told me that it did not cover Spain. 

I am now covered for South Africa as well. 

Have a full SAHPA licence witch covers me third party as well

When I got my new wing, I told them and they added it. It also covers me free flying that wing : (£5) document change cost

Got axa as well ,needed it for Spain..

1 hour ago, AndyB said:

Love that ski launch!  Nice videos.

 

When things don't work as planned! !!!!!!!

Casey 

Have anyone  perhaps  done some free flying with the ozone roadster 3  ,I would like to find out how it compare to a PG wing

Casey 

It is such a lovely place  to fly . Done that last year 

Hi ,not at all.

It would be nice to have someone there as well.

Will pm you if I am able to find someone who has been there before and can give me a rundown.