geckofly
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Posts posted by geckofly
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I am flying a speedster and would love to be able to combine brakes , wing tip steering and speedbar in to something more intuative especialy when flying and turning low . the best looking system i have seen is http://www.scoutparamotor.com/advanced- ... slav-svec/
Question is.... has anyone tried this as a retro fit or any thoughts on how it might work on a speedster or any alternative ideas out there ?
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agree, a fabulous piece ! I got some nice images a few years ago
Excellent photography there Steve!
thanks Stevie, a friend of mine Mick Petts made it and he only recently got to see it from the air in person courtesy of the One Show in a hot air balloon ...got to be the best viewpoint !! he was also commisioned to make the mother earth figure at the ebbw vale garden festival and a wild boar near Fochrew
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agree, a fabulous piece ! I got some nice images a few years ago
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A couple of years ago now but these were my first attempts at video, for those interested , filmed with a go pro on a foot mount with a 12v monitor on my instrument pod , this worked well using the cover of the instrument container as a sun shield and the foot mount giving great control ( used a quick release mount on my boot so I could take off and land without damaging the lens ) used Mercali a post stabilizing prog hence the jelly wooble but with carefull editing tried to reduce that to a min . would love to do some more especially with more efective stabilization but have been concentrating on aerial photography rather than film .
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Could be running rich mid range.
Do a plug chop at that rev range if you can.
Think you were right Pete!, put new metering spring in and seemes to have cured that
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Also check the torque on your cylinder head bolts, they can come loose and you end up with an air leak at the bottom of the cylinder.
Yes good point and have redone both gaskets and retorqued after every flight ..the amount of attention this motor is receiving at the moment ! girlfriends complaining a bit!!
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First check the fuel filter inside the carb- i bet it's clogged. When it's clogged it interferes with the fuel flow/ metering system. Also check the pipe that oscillates the membrane - it maybe blocked.
Thanks for the ideas gorden , but the filter is new and very clean ! and the impuse tube new as well !
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Fuel starvation
Cos you've messed with the metering lever
Would you like to borrow a pop off gauge while your at it?
Sent from my iPhone using PMC Forum mobile app
thanks alot for the offer
that would be great
just have to work out when i could get over
could you PM me a contact number?
thanks steve
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maintain around 6100 revs on a PA125 for aprox 10 -20 sec and then it surges up to 7200 without any increase in throttle pressure ...any ideas anyone ? it will also drop revs when cruising for a few min at around those values
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an update ! after repeated attempts to clean the carb, I still couldnt get a reliable idle., followed a suggestion from Rowena carbs I bought a Maplin ultrasonic cleaner..I was a bit skeptical I thought it was last thing to try before ditching, but what a difference http://www.maplin.co.uk/ultra-7000-ultr ... ner-223108 I cleaned twice both sides (tray not quite deep enough to imerse all of carb)on 8 min using the cleaning fluid and got the idle back!
I got rid of the primer pump but found couldnt start the motor well ! probably needed more practice or puff! so re -installed that
still running a bit lean, so that was sorted by bending metering lever up to 0.75 below carb body as it had been set using the walbro guage at 1.7mm
first time in a long time the motor sounds right and plug nice colour
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The trick is to get carb cleaner / and or compressed air going both ways through them there holes.
I did the nozzle valve this way: Remove the main jet & idle jet. Take some thin plastic flexible tubing, heat up the end with a torch, melt it into a cone shape so that it fits the diameter of the nozzle valve inside the throttle body.
Heat the tube again and bend a 90 degree curve in it so it can fit in the throttle body. Take a bit of stiff steel, wrap some tape around the tube and steel (to stiffen the tubing) so you can hold the tube inside the throttle body, directly on top of the nozzle valve.
Take the thin hard plastic extender tubing from the carb cleaner aerosol can, wrap some tape around it so that a bigger diameter hose can fit and seal over it.
Put on safety glasses. The first time it did this I got carb cleaner in the eye, was not fun!
Then insert the assembly onto the nozzle valve and squirt away. Then use another section of the plastic tubing to squirt cleaner through the hole where the main jet was.
Repeat several times.
Thanks notch
...thats this evenings activity then ! cheers
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here is your problem described and how to solved http://wind-drifter.com/technical/wg8walbro.php ,its really works just you need plastic reducer http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-4mm-BARBE ... 5893015a62 and http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-PETROL-P ... 485752cd32
and 15 min job
its works for me ,one think more take off primer bulb -inside its 2 valves ,this valves restrict fuel flow that impact engine power ,fuel need get as short way as possible from tank to carburettor without resistance.
if you want i can paste my photo how I solve that .
thanks for all the ideas
and links ! really useful
My carb has a 3.2 mm inlet . I have fitted the carb kit and now great! no air bubbles , leak solved !
However the bloody thing still wont idle ...
so leaning back towards dirty idle Jets...
anyone tried sonic cleaning ...as my attempts with carb cleaner havent worked me thinks
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Thanks for the ideas! will try the priming with blowing technique!
hopefully new membranes and new needle valve will sort but will give another clean , Id used a tube with angle cut in end to blow carb cleaner in small holes , but really fiddly !
beginning to regret advice from PAP to remove internal filter!! believe that started with the Ross 125 and they recommended for PA125 as well
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Sounds like either your fuel pump (membrane) is stuffed, or you have an air leak at the point where the hose joins to the carb. If you are using a cable tie here, make sure it is wrapped around twice.
You can try inspecting the fuel pump membrane, and if one of the parts used as a valve is bent, try and make it flat again.
You could also have clogged jets etc - that ended up being my issue.
Thanks Notch. yes suspected that join, and I replaced that bit of pipe and double wrapped cable tie all to no effect , more and more suspecting the needle valve , but should get the membranes and kit tommorow so will see !
When cleaning Jets in the carb there seemes to be 5 holes in the chamber , near the butterfly anyone know which are responsible for the idle or are all of them ?
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Trying to get to the bottom of No Idle on ...PA125 fitted with the WG8 carb, after priming engine the top fuel filter is full apart from a regulation small bubble after 3 sec a stream of bubbles is seen to come from the carb side .
Im assuming this is something to do with the 'no idle' situation and running slightly lean!. I have changed fuel lines , primer bulb and all that seemes airtight . I have stripped and cleaned carb twice , Have ordered new membranes and will check meter level but seemes ok , but while waiting for them to arrive does any other causes spring to mind?.
missing this nice weather is painful!!
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Thought it better to resurrect an old thread rather than start another. Is there anyone still flying in the Cardiff area? Has anyone ever used Pontycanna sports fields to fly from?
I joined the Gaer park model club in return for using their field , in between Cardiff and Newport
fantastic take off for all wind directions. send a PM if you want more details
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We have a guy at Membury airfield who mends them
£70 will get you those back perfectly repaired and balanced.
SW
Hi Simon
do you have a contact number for the guy how does the repairs
thanks
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My starter also has a lot of lateral movement (100+ hours). But it seems to start okay. My PA125 does have more compression than any of my friends motors though, and is harder to pull over.
I know of one expert on these motors that enlarged the decompression hole in the cylinder to fix this issue, with no resulting loss in power. But it's a one-way operation, and you have to be careful with the plating on the cylinder walls.
Another option is to try a larger thickness base gasket. This increases the volume at the top of the piston stroke, reducing compression. I have had to do this as the quality of fuels in the country I have moved to is very poor, and detonation occurs without this change.
Thanks for the update to the 0.6mm gap on the flywheel...
Thanks for the info Notch
I did change the base gasket. I made another out of 0.6 paper and with a bit of gasket sealer
put it on top of the other one
now the squish is slightly over recommend 1.5 /1-6 but will probably bed down a bit ,
But at last it works!!!
also reset the magneto gap it was a little off but not that bad
Put a sleeve and brass washer in starter this reduced the play (but not sure this had much effect)
anyway something did the trick!
forgotten how sweet it all sounds
Really didnt fancy drilling out cylinder !
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In Case anyone else has come across this problem
and it is found not to be the timing .
I talked to Pierre from PAP he suggested two things
the Gap between the coil and flywheel should be 0.6 not as it says in the pdf 0.4
Also suggests it could be wear on the starter mechanism , which locks up when a lot of tension is applied. mine certainly shows alot of lateral movement!
and its interesting that this was noticed in previous post
I have now noticed that the pull start mechanism is now looking a little worse for ware from all the excessive pull due to the hard compression.
and it sort of maybe ties in with the generator fix
thanks for the ideas
will try tommorrow!
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I have adjusted the Squish with a thicker gasket
but still the same problem !
Can someone tell me if the timing is out , would I not notice a difference between the sparkplug lead on or off ? if there is no spark then there is no advance? or could timing still be the cause.
if not then any other ideas please ?
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Hi Guys
i reported some time back that I was having some issue with a friends HE 120 paramotor
I was having the same issue as Clive with there being way too much compression. I have reported the issue to HE paramotor in Spain and they have being great but I am in Australia there are in Spain so its all emails to and from.
So way too much compression to the stage it is near impossible to pull start.
Remove spark plug all good.
So far I have followed the step from the link in the second post in this link:
I recevied a new gasket which was meant to resolve the compression issue (which it has not) and some new O ring for the cylinder head.
I have cleaned the Piston and the cylinder following the guide by Alex Varv
http://www.aerocorsair.com/id107.htm
I have now put it all back together and I still have the same issue, there is no decompression hole I have looked everywhere!!
I am at a loss now, I am now thinking its a carbie issue as it there is no fuel reaching the shiny piston head not a even a hint of fuel. Anyone out there have any ideas of where the possible issue is, Its driving me nuts plenty of head scratching. If I remove the carbie will there be a whole world of pain trying to get it back in good running order.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Dara
Hi Dara
Im having the same problem
with a PA125. although it does have a clean decompression hole !
.was it the timing?did you ever get to the bottom of this?
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Mine was not the timing or squish, it was getting past a stubborn stage..
Found that it was much easier to kickstart than pull start, and it got much easier the more hours i put on it !!
I remember now ..
Only prime the bulb so the fuel only just reaches the carb it use to flood very easy which would cause it to lock out and kick back..
Tip the motor to one side and be gentle on the primer bulb, pretty sure this was the main cause of the problem…
How many hours have you on it have you checked the needle and membranes i replaced mine after about thirty hours !!
Thanks clive ...yes I guess it has 30 to 40 hrs after a brand new carb was fitted ,the membranes dont look brilliant so will change them , however even with no fuel , no priming ,etc its still very hard to pull over, which was leading me to think along other lines ! off to buy some solder to measure squish, and will be interesting to see if thats spot on
a bit of update... squish measured and its reading 1.04 -1.20
recommended 1.3 - 1.5
so off to get some gasket paper tommorow see if that makes difference
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Check your timing and squish:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Byyv6Xw ... edit?pli=1
It's in spanish, but you get the idea. You can check the timing with only the gearbox and sparkplug removed...
Thanks for the link notch, will give it a go!
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Hoping someone has some news as to why this would happen!
My pa125 has exactly the same problem as described above
just taken the head off ,cleaned piston checked ring, cleaned decompressor hole (wasnt blocked)
then broke the starter cord trying a start (obviously not fixed then ! )
any Ideas other than Timing?
no fuel in motor so not a vapour lock
Retro fitting a steering system
in General paramotor discussion
Posted
Thanks Alan . I am really looking for a combined control system and ideally not two seperate controls .As with the speedster, I dont want to have to release brakes to fully utilize tip steering especially while low and on and off speedbar, it looks like Dudek are working on it calling it Integrated Control but its seemes it is still not ready for release...