bendmeroundthehedge

You say new engine? Complete set up or have you added your own prop etc.? Could do with more info, but here's some thoughts.

Has it the HEIS (high energy ignition system)? If so, you get a decent spark at approx 100 rpm. If not, it will take approx 500+rpm for a decent spark. If you are running a composite prop with the latter, the starter motor will struggle to give the engine enough inertia to fire. That system works better with a wooden prop.

Check the drive belt is tight enough.

I think the Solo210 starter is FIEM, 16552, cw rotation.

Hope some of this info helps.

Kev

http://www.kartpartsuk.com/index.php?pa ... _fuel_pump

kev

http://www.heliceurope.com/en/HELICEURO ... light.html

Have found this, no idea of the quality of the props, may be of some use.

Kev

Ah yes. Got you now. Wondered what that was for!

Thanks

Kev

Just uploaded another video on YouTube. A layman's guide to checking the ignition. Easy to follow and understand.

[youtubevideo]

I thought I would make this one while the engine was still on the bench.

Hope you find it useful.

Thanks Simon for showing the other video.

Kev

Had it from new. It is approx 3 years old, and has done about 20 hours (if that). The prop is a 125, the original which came with the engine. The carb is a Walbro 32.

Last time it was used was 12 months ago, in Northumberland. Been under the bench since.

Kev

Just uploaded a video to YouTube, Walbro to a Bing, including fuel pump pressure test, harness modification, reserve hook up and some safety tips.

At the end of the clip, I am pressure testing a Vittzorazi Easy 100. If anybody is interested in this engine, I am open to offers. Selling it as a PULL START ONLY. As you can see in the clip, the starter motor housing has broken away. Apart from that, it is in excellent condition and is complete with exhaust. May throw in the original prop. It was in my titanium frame before fitting the Mini 2.

[youtubevideo]

Bendme

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That fertilizer is treated human waste.

http://environmentdebate.wordpress.com/ ... man-waste/

kev

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Good choice of power plant Simon. The wing technology is outstripping the motors leading to people choosing a power plant they later regret. The motor technology just cannot match the pace at which the wings keep changing. No fault lies with the engines, but you cannot keep wringing the motor's nuts off to maintain level flight. Unless of course, it's a Honda C90 (remember them?).

Yes, the way to go is purchase a frame, put your own power plant in and customise it to your needs. It may not look pretty, but you will enjoy it even more.

The price of paramotors now is a joke IMO. I'd sooner go out and buy a small car or a Honds C90, or a boat or a..........?

kev

Hi Learner driver,This link is more up todate,Still a good price for a mini2 based unit.

http://www.prop.se/PARAMOTOR-sidor/andr ... ex_en.html

kev.

Hi Pete,

Thanks for that, but I was looking specifically for a Bing pump, as the take-off points suit my needs better.

Kev

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur ... 6%26um%3D1

Click on motor components from the list on the left.

It is type 08090 in the above link. Is that the same one you have?

Kev

Wanted: Bing 84 32mm carb, also lift pump.

Kev

Skull mikes have been used in the theater for quite a while. They position them in the centre of the forehead on the hairline.

Not used the motorcycle skull mike, may work better if you are a bit of a slap head, but if you have a bit of a thatch may not work as well, I wouldn't like to say.

Bendme

Here's a paragraph from one of the links I posted prior to this, regarding high alcohol content in fuel.

"The problem is due to the mixing of oil with the fuel for lubrication of the engine. When oil is added to a fuel which has separated into gasoline and water-alcohol layers, the oil only goes into solution with the gasoline. If engine is using a pre-mixed fuel supply, this means all the lubrication is in the gasoline, and none is in the water-alcohol solution. When the engine draws the water-alcohol fuel off the bottom of the tank, not only is it getting a rotten fuel, it is also getting no oil at all. No oil means no lubrication. This increases the potential for damage."

On new machines/fuel tanks I have found you get a grey sludge like gunge which, I believe, may have something to do with the processes used in the manufacture of the tank which reacts the first few times with the fuel. Once the tank has been seasoned this no longer happens.

To help mimimise any potential problems, remove any unused fuel from the tank and filter the fuel (with the type of filter that also removes water) when refilling. You can buy these filters cheaper from a Chandlers.

Kev

New fuel tank, Is another thing that clogges up the fine gauze filter.they are ok when thay have been refilled a few times,

But cause a lot of problem's,sometimes major, when new.

kev

Fuel with a high alcohol content will absorbe water from the air.

Some good info here.

http://www.fueltestkit.com/expiration_o ... l_gas.html

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014252.html

kev.

The plug called the standard. icom/maxon has Ear 3.5mm mono

Mic 2.5mm mono

10mm spacing.

kev.

Some good info here.

http://www.geocities.com/farellus/idle_adaptation.html

kev

Have a look at this.

http://www.motoguide.com/tork_skull_mic.htm

kev.

Hi all,

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. It seems bigger is better!

I have posted the message on various forums and got some good information.

Do you think it would be a good time now to let 'er indoors know? Or.......do the deed once she goes to Canada on Sunday?

Fly safe

Kev

I finally decided to buy a brand new motor. At the moment I am using a mini 2 with 130 prop. It gets me and my lardy arse up and away without the marathon run. I am almost settled on a Fly Products Gold mini2. Not sure whether to go for the 115 or 130?

Any info regarding the pros and cons of this machine will be much appreciated

( before I hand over my hard earned cash)

kev