Michael Sheeran

On 18/08/2018 at 14:53, Yank said:

Hey Mick! I'm going to be unapologetically long winded here so, get ready! So, first, best I can tell the torque on the head bolts is 25ft lbs. I progressively increased the torque on my torque wrench till movent happened at 25f/p. I took my cams off just to see what was going on with the darn thing. 

next, I honestly think the ez start decompressor was working okay...yeah.... So, the way it works, when closed, a knob juts out of the cam causing the rocker to release pressure in the cylinder. as the engine rotates fast, it appears centripetal force causes the ez start mechanism to rotate which rotates the knob open allowing the cam to rotate smoothly. Why one was rotating and not the other on my engines? I'm not sure. but it appears the mechanism was actually working. Why do I say this. because it does rotate freely (but it appears that, to rotate, the engine is supposed to be already running). The only thing the mechanism does is rotate 1/2 turn. There's nothing more to it. it is closed and the knob juts out. as the engine speeds up the mechanism opens and the knob rotates into the cam allowing the rocker to glide over rather then getting pushed up. its a pretty cool idea and allows full compression when the engine is running but less compression when pull starting. That said, if it rotates easily and isn't stuck, it seems that means it works as its supposed to. Once I rig up my original engine now that its back together I'll be finding out if this is true or not. 

a word of advice, I wouldn't take it apart because ensuring the timing chain stays aligned is tricky. Not impossible, but its a bit of a pain. definitely mark it with a grease marker before taking the cam apart (I failed to do this but, I set the piston to TDC, replaced the head, and aligned the cam to TDC and reassembled everything so it should work if it "works". If you do take it apart, you will see that the "knob" and the thing that you rotated with your screwdriver are one piece. and theres a spring that closes it when at rest.  That's basically the entire "ez start" system. 

Might I suggest a good carb clean? It appears in mine, the carb was blocked at the pilot jet. I had sprayed the jets with carb cleaner originally however, it appears that wasn't enough. So I soaked the jets overnight and sprayed em out with compressed air. after that, jets are clean. Haven't yet tested em since the dip carb clean but, I'm hoping things will work. 

Does yours EVER start? Mine would periodically but certainly not easy and certainly not consistently...and not often... But it DID occasionally turn over. That's why I'm thinking it was actually the carb. Finally, if I could go back, I would have rigged up an engine stand so I could start it off my back. Until it does start easy, don't even try it on your back. Gorilla arms don't overcome cylinder compression. Not for very long anyway. 

Now, as for the e start conversion. interestingly enough, the thing is built like a motorcycle. it has a charger (stator and everything) inside unlike the 2 stroke e-start motors (electric clothing anyone!! and no dead batteries either. rock solid platform this thing). However, this makes it a full project to convert. Its not just a matter of throwing on a starter. So, if you are looking to do a conversion (it seems it wouldn't be impossible), I suggest buying a cheap broken engine and transplanting the starting components. You really need to make sure you get the right parts. Easier still? Do what I did and just replace your engine with an Estart engine. I got it second hand for 3000$ from one of those facebook groups. 

Finally, before you take it apart (if you haven't already), do everything you can to ensure your jets are clean. If you know for a fact there's no fuel restriction, your intake is intact, you are getting spark, and compression, only then would I suggest breaking open the cams (for me, all that did was help me understand how the ez start system actually works so I can stop assuming it was at fault). I kind of wish I'd have gone further with my carbs but, after so much failure to launch, I didn't care, I just wanted something that worked. 

Looking back, this is what I should have done:

1) carbs 100% clean. Take em and get em hydrosonically cleaned if its an option. 100% clean means 100% sure its not a fuel flow issue. Test the float height while yer at it...

2) test the spark with a spark tester (I did do this but, as we all know in a 4 stroke, its like, NEVER the spark plug. LOL. but it could be something else in the ignition system)

3) etc (all the other stuff you probably did already...you know the drill.  Just make sure for sure for sure each part works like it should). rig it up on a motor stand and start test starting it

4) if it still doesn't start relatively easily, get an e start motor and do a swap. Basically, at this point, you know nothing isn't working, its just a PITA to start on the back. You can either just keep trying, or start over with an E start motor. 

5) if none available, find a broken motor and do a conversion. (this is the most work so, it should be your last option)

I hope the above is helpful. For me, I"m pretty sure it actually came down to dirty carbs (yes. shame on me. LOL). But after flying it, I'm actually happy I jumped the gun. The E start is AWESOME! Lemme know how things go for you. 

(I really want to know if Bailey thinks all communication still happens in person. Like, email IS actually a thing these days. Not sure why they stonewall all their customers. Its a shame really).

Hi thanks for all the info, I will definitely check out carbs, I took a really good look at decompression system and it is definitely working correctly, albeit it still is tough to turn over, and thanks for info on head torque, I almost got caught with chain coming off it’s sprocket but luckily got it in time. I will wait until I get the replacement air intake pipe and then a floor stand to assist me with starting the engine, and take it from there, probably do a carb clean  as well, I will let you know how I get on. 

Regards Mick 

On 04/08/2018 at 21:28, coolhand said:

Looks somewhat overengineered........;)

 

Hi I am so delighted to have found your post regarding V5 being hard to start, I have one and have checked valve clearances, belt tension, and all the usual suspects, I did find the rubber air intake pipe perished where it attaches to the engine intake manifold, it looked perfect on the engine but when inspected closer it was completely cracked through and would have definitely effected the air/fuel mix. But after reading your post and especially after seeing the photos of the decompressor, mine is identical and doesn’t move on compression stroke, it is free to move if you attempt to move it with a screwdriver but it’s mechanical function is not operating correctly, I am going to take it apart next week and inspect it further and will update you. 

I am very interested in the modifications to convert the V5 to V5E and any info, or photos would be greatly appreciated, I had the same experience with Bailey, I contacted them by email phone and every possible method with no reply, if there was a conversion kit I would have bought it as my arms are like a baboons from trying to start the engine on my back. 

Thanks for all your posts and keep me updated if you can. 

Im in Ireland so really appreciate your help

Regards Mick