Phil_P

Hello all, new to paramotoring and was wondering if anyone here could share their thoughts on these 2 motors. I am interested in purchasing a new motor and found that these 2 are reasonably priced and seem ok. I am a beginner, 78kg and would be flying mostly over flat terrain launching from near sea level each time. I sure could use any suggestions, thanks very much.

Hi Sven, I can't give you any comparison info, but I can give you a bit of info on the Solo.

I've just completed about my first 50 hours on a Solo engined Adventure F3 Plus. The 'Plus' bit was the tuned exhaust and larger head to get a few more revs and a little extra power.

The Solo has probably been used in more paramotors than any other single engine. It is based around an agricultural pumping engine, and as such is designed to run for long periods with refuelling being the only maintenance. Compared to modern offerings, the Solo's 210 cc's are probably lacking in power, but under an X-Large swing arcus, mine got me into the air on my first flight with an all up weight nearing the 160 kg (yes, kg) mark. Performance at this weight could never be described as sparkling. The engine tolerated conditions that I suspect might have seized lesser models, one particular flight I landed to find the carb hanging loose, so it must have been extremely lean.

Problems that I have encountered have been centred around the ancillaries rather than the motor itself, with ignition and carb being particularly singled out for criticism.

Making sure all fuel unions are air tight to prevent the ingress of air and hence a lean mixture is absolutely essential.

I always found my electric start only model to be easy to start (when the ignition wasn't playing up), but I understand that manual start versions can be a bit of a pig, a problem largely overcome if fitted with the high energy ignition system. There is a small hole in the cylinder that benefits from being cleaned out every so often as it is part of the decompression system, however, I never needed to do so, and I think the use of good quality two stroke oil in the right ratio helps a lot there.

Spares are quite easy to come by, but I'd never say that they were cheap. In many instances, the least expensive option is to buy parts from the USA. When a new barrel is priced from 'Adventure' at nearly 500 euro, that is simply daylight robbery.

All in all, a good basic engine with enough power for your needs, but now coming up a bit short in the power stakes compared to modern kit.

Nope, as in 'cast' being used as a noun.

Looks like you hit some sink there Phil!

Great to see you smiling about it I'm darned sure I wouldn't have been:/

The sink sunk sank and stunk!

It's one of those cost/benefit equations isn't it? In this instance, the 'cost' is the weight penalty. I think that given the rarity of the event (how many times have you heard of it happening?), it is unlikely that I'd permanently fit the extra weight of a 'plumbed' system, and if I did have a small extinguisher that I stuffed in a pocket, I think as time went on, it would likely become consigned to roll around the bottom of my flying bag rather than be included on flight 'must haves'.

I haven't yet flown without a suit of some type, and I'm not sure if I would or not. It's a bit like riding your motorbike without leathers or a helmet, it's wonderfully exhilarating, but is it worth the risk of getting dragged into a hawthorn hedge? My summer flying suit is a plain cotton one treated with 'Proban' fire retardant, I don't know whether others would consider this as an alternative.

Of course Richard, "Cast dispersions" corrupted for humour to.... "cast nasturtiums".

Yes, that beach has become a bit of a mission for me. I want to fly it before the summer is out!

Close, but it's 'aspersions' that are nominally cast.

Trust me Pete, if laughter is the best medicine, I reckon I could have cured most of the world's diseases with the fall out from that one

Kev's comments about 'smelly-vision' don't come close to describing how bad that vile grey gunk stank. I do wish I'd caught up with the cameraman to give him a hug though, hehe.

Apologies are NOT required, I deserve it for a right royal f**k up.

Kev doesn't tell you about the 'Phoenix' however, except this one rose from the mud.

I've got some pretty trashed bits, but no 'complete' cage, only several mangled quadrants. Any use?

Phil

Auber 12v digital thermo-guage (ebay, USA about £30) They measure about 4" x 1 1/2" x 3/4" and can record maximum levels, trigger an alarm etc. Thermocouple, home made, bit of copper sheet drilled to plug size with tabs that could fold over and clamp the wire which was a couple of quid off ebay again. Ends of the wire were welded together using a 12v battery although it will work if you just twist them (you can't solder them). Thermocouple plug/socket makes it easy to detach.

I May have one of the Auber gauges surplus to requirements if you are interested. They will happily read up to EGT levels too with a suitable probe.

And the fact also remains, that we should none of us be using GPS as our primary means of VFR navigation.

Another point worth mentioning is that I have come across two people recently with Garmin units, who were unaware of the WAAS (Wide Area Augmentation System) function on their sets. By default this function is left turned off, but accuracy can be greatly improved by turning it on, somewhere in the setup menu system. Older Garmins won't have the facility, but I understand that most new sets do.

Pretty much any generic 2m (144 mHz) antenna will work fine. The rubber duck style are handy because you don't need to mount them onto a substantial piece of metalwork in order to get a good ground plane. That said, they are not very efficient.

The cheapest solution (and very effective to boot) is to knock up a half wave dipole antenna and string it across your cage. This can be as simple as two pieces of wire, each somewhere around the 50cm mark in length. Connect one piece to the centre conductor of some RG58 coax, and the other piece to the braided shield of the coax. Pot the joint in some silicon or resin and connect a BNC plug to the other end of the coax, to hook onto your radio. Most folks probably hold their radio somewhere near vertical, so run the wire elements top to bottom of your cage, away from the metalwork, zip tied to the netting is best. This will give you a nice vertically polarised signal.

If you want to check how good a job your antenna is doing, then you will need to pop a SWR meter into the circuit between radio and antenna. This will also allow you to optimise the length of the wires for the frequency you commonly use, which means shortening the elements for higher frequencies.

Phil

above quoted airfield level, with your altimeter set to airfield QFE

Just to add that a roll of cling film in the same kit would be useful.

It's a very good tool in the burns arsenal, as long as you've got someone trained to use it. If wrapped around a burn that subsequently swells, you can create as many problems as you solve. Also, always unwrap a few turns off the roll and discard before using it on the burn (infection control).

Just a thought to err on the side of caution.

Phil (PK)

My take is that having your PPL will help a lot with the theoretical aspects of paramotoring, but will have next to no benefit when it comes to hands on flying. It is such a different environment to the 'spam can' that just about every aspect is different. I'd suggest that you dohn't expect PPL training to shorten your PPG training, but it will give you quite a bunch of well developed skills that will be useful (weather recognition, navigation, air law etc).

Phil

Did I hear right? The pilots name is Dakota Moon?

Yes, Native American.

I doubt it is lack of ability.

Trouble is, you have Dell Schanze on one side, Bob Armond on the other. Two really good pilots who hate each others guts and if one says 'black' then you can bet the other will say 'white'.

It really is a pity, because there is quite a bit to be learned from both of them if they could quit making t**ts of themselves at every opportunity.

Bob Armond is the most vociferous critic of the FT on this planet. He sees it as a life crusade to have them all scrapped.

No offence was taken or meant just a little insight to what it was like and a little light hearted rib jab ( you should know me by now )

Pete b

Perhaps not by you Pete, but I think I detected (and I may be reading this wrongly) a certain degree of 'sensitivity' to Leo's comments by some

My general feeling here, and it applies to both sides; Don't stick your head above the parapet if you aren't prepared to get shot at.

Have a look at the Kobra web site, http://kobrappg.com/web/

The Rocco is described in the tech blurb as being low pivoting, so I guess plenty of weight shift.

Phil

Take this with a large pinch of salt, because I am not that experienced. I'm sure somebody who knows better will help out soon.

From what I understand, nearly all motors exhibit some degree of weight-shift ability. The amount of this ability seems to be closely linked to the position of the hang points of the harness in relation to your body when you are in the harness. The amount of effect that weight shift has is simply a reflection of how much you can alter the relative heights of the two risers in relation to each other. My Bailey has what they call 'mid' hang points, although to be honest I can't see a noticeable difference in hang point height between these, and the 'high' bars with which the motor had previously been fitted. I am able to significantly alter direction of flight by moving my backside about.

As I understand it, the following is the general rule;

With low hang points, it is much easier to weight shift to steer, and to a degree this also results in a system that feeds back air conditions to the pilot in a much more direct fashion., meanuing you tend to get bounced around a bit more in turbulent conditions.

With high hang points, it becomes more difficult to use weight shift to steer, and the system takes on a rather more self stable state, and is less 'disrupted by flying conditions.

To what extent having fixed or pivoting arms also feeds into this equation, I can't really say, although intuitively I would have thought that a swing arm system would make for a better weight shift system.

Phil

Seen the Kobra close up, although not flown it. The quality of finish and attention to detail is very good indeed.

I suspect that back up of any motor will depend largely on your local importer/supplier. Best to ask around closer to home for some of than kind of info. (Not to say that PMC isn't global )

PK

Hey, you can't have a DVD like that on general release and expect not to be criticised for any shortcomings. When something is presented as 'representative' and it's the only insight someone has (i.e., they weren't there or involved) then the nature of the beast is that problems will be highlighted.

I think even some of the t2t'ers would agree that there are parts of FAD that could be used as text book examples of 'don't try this at home'.

Phil

I would like to ask a few questions:

1) What are your views on whether or not i would be able to fly?

I am sure you would be able to fly, whether anyone will train you at 15 yo to solo, I'm not sure. Perhaps one of the PMC instructors could help there.

2) How much would training cost??

Depends very much on aptitude, and whether you spend time either on your own or with a knowledgable friend doing ground handling. I personally budgeted about £750

3) How much would I expect second hand kit to cost (Im 5,9 about 80kg)

£2500-3000 would probably see you with a half decent motor and a tested used wing. You always find there are extras that you forget about like helmet, boots, reserve etc. which could add another £750-800

4) Take of landing distance to clear 15m obstacle?

Depends very much on wind strength, the stronger the wind, the closer you will be to climbing and descending vertically. In still conditions, it can be quite a distance, length of a football pitch plus. Again, this depends on motor and wing also.

Do I have to have insurance?

It isn't a legal requirement, but most people would strongly recommend it. Imagine the scenario of making a forced landing near a racing stable, scaring a 1/2 million pound racehorse into bolting and breaking a leg and having to be put down.

Thanks for any help!!!

Max

Pleasure, PK

Check out my ads in the classifieds for; a Swing Arcus (XL), an ITV Proxima 2 (28) and Solo 210 Barrel, Piston, Rings and gaskets.

That's just a 'Hobbs' type hour meter though isn't it Simon? No rev counter?

Handy if you just want to log engine run time, although they run as long as the ignition circuit is live so if you forget to switch off, it will continue to tot up the hours.

It will presumably need a power supply if your motor doesn't have a battery or generator system.

PK

As far as the web sites go, I am not in the least bit surprised. I've seen loads of sites with details of stuff far older than 12 months. I guess it reflects poorly on the schools concerned, but personally I don't think it's a huge issue.

As for sponsoring, well if they are, why complain, it's just income generation after all. If in fact they are NOT sponsoring the event, it sounds like just another poorly maintained web site.

Just my two Sheckels worth.