notch

I have the noise busters on my rig.

Can't live without them, its like night and day.

I used to wear sunglasses and they didn't always seal properly around the ears. Now that i'm out of that habit they work much better. You need active noise cancellation for the low frequencies, would imagine the 4T noise is a lot lower than 2T, so they probably will be even more effective.

Can't understand why more people don't use them.

These are great: http://www.noisebuster.net/

They use active noise cancellation to get rid of the low frequencies that the optime III cant get rid of.

And you can pump in your own sounds via a 3.5mm jack at the bottom. There's even a mic option (bit pricey tho) for CB/Airband.

I wonder what the average # of props per hour is

Bit strange the carb going lean? Could there be a fuel supply issue? Reeds?

Carb icing? But perhaps not in summer!

An air leak? Could try pressure testing the crankcase? Not that hard - block off the exhaust and intake, use the air pulse port to pressurize, check than you have less than 1psi loss in 2 minutes.

Fuel quality? If you are using an EGT, temps go down when you have detonation - which can confuse the crap out of anyone.

Float valve setting? Fuel vaporising in high vibration fuel line?

Let us know how you get on with the Bing.

The PWK carbs are hard to tune as there are so many things you can change.

And one change often has more that one effect. Have you seen the jetting spreadsheet for the PWK?

THe PWK carbs are used on almost all two stroke dirtbikes.

If you are not getting the results you want, a Walbro may be a better option?

It's in Spanish, but you get the general idea:

ENCENDIDO SQUISH PA (2).pdf - https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6V65iW ... sp=sharing

Also check the torque on your cylinder head bolts, they can come loose and you end up with an air leak at the bottom of the cylinder.

Pollini won't give their needle dimensions? That's really not helpful!!!

Perhaps it is custom needle?

The cheapest place I found was Sudco in the states. Postage took awhile but each needle was like $5.

May be able to reverse engineer them off this:

Pete, glad you have your issues solved. Another option would have been to order a set of PWK needles, and use the jetting spreadsheet to figure which one would be best, but it probably would have taken much longer and cost much more $$.

Regarding measuring the mixture, the only issue with EGT is that the temperatures measured can decrease when detonation starts. So you can be tricked into thinking that the mixture is ok, when in fact the engine is detonating. I'm sure that's not the case with your mods though, as you have made the mixture richer.

But others may be tricked in by this "feature" of EGT? Detonation happens when you are running too lean or have too much compression for the octane of the fuel. And detonation appears to be what is giving issues with the thor?

An alternative is mounting a non heated denso O2 sensor & bung off ebay, connected to a high impedance digital multimeter, shouldn't cost more than 50 quid. Only negative is that if the O2 sensor is run in a rich environment for any length of time it will fail. But hopefully you have the mixture sorted by then!

Take a look at the "cotton carrier" chest mount harness range.

I have a buddy that swears by them.

Yeah, oscillation was what I was afraid of.

Perhaps the Buzz Z4 still an option then.

The Buzz Z4 when 10kg over the placard weight is probably an ENC anyway!

I have 20 hours PG and 100 Hours PPG.

Really need two wings dammit!

To reduce restriction in primer bulb.....

Remove from fuel line

Carefully disassemble, labelling all relevant parts. a sharp blade may be required to remove the valves. Clean thoroughly, wrap the various bits in a plastic bag. And then lob the lot in the bin [sMILING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]

Sent from my iPhone using PMC Forum mobile app

ROFL

So you use the blowhard method? Tried that... was blowing for bloomen ages, still couldnt get it up

The trick is to get carb cleaner / and or compressed air going both ways through them there holes.

I did the nozzle valve this way: Remove the main jet & idle jet. Take some thin plastic flexible tubing, heat up the end with a torch, melt it into a cone shape so that it fits the diameter of the nozzle valve inside the throttle body.

Heat the tube again and bend a 90 degree curve in it so it can fit in the throttle body. Take a bit of stiff steel, wrap some tape around the tube and steel (to stiffen the tubing) so you can hold the tube inside the throttle body, directly on top of the nozzle valve.

Take the thin hard plastic extender tubing from the carb cleaner aerosol can, wrap some tape around it so that a bigger diameter hose can fit and seal over it.

Put on safety glasses. The first time it did this I got carb cleaner in the eye, was not fun!

Then insert the assembly onto the nozzle valve and squirt away. Then use another section of the plastic tubing to squirt cleaner through the hole where the main jet was.

Repeat several times.

I think all of the PAP models already have the reduced diameter fuel pipe???

Interested to hear how you reduce the restriction in the primer...

looks like a nice option.... but the 33m size is again not certified... perhaps a diet is in order!

Have not tried a 130cm, but have heard that you get 3-4kg more thrust.

A lot of guys here use oversize props, much to the amusement of some.

Every time they stumble or fall over (even gently), they get a prop strike.

Adamantly this is with a different cage to PAP, but without the oversize props, it's not an issue.

This is probably why pap recommend the 1450 frame...

When cleaning the jets system in a wg8, make sure you:

- Clean all the low speed holes around the butterfly valve. Some of these are tiny, and there is like 5 of them!

- Clean the main nozzle valve. Yes the walbro carbs have a very strange (compared to other carbs) "valve" after the main jet . If crap gets in here (which, if it got in the low speed holes it will have got in here as well), you have to be really thorough in cleaning it out. I had to make an miniature hose adaptor which blew carb cleaner BOTH ways through the nozzle valve. Only then did the crap come out, and I could get my CHT's down.

oh, and remember LEAN=Expensive (around 500 quid in my case).

Sounds like either your fuel pump (membrane) is stuffed, or you have an air leak at the point where the hose joins to the carb. If you are using a cable tie here, make sure it is wrapped around twice.

You can try inspecting the fuel pump membrane, and if one of the parts used as a valve is bent, try and make it flat again.

You could also have clogged jets etc - that ended up being my issue.

Dom,

Unfortunately the 28m revo2 is not certified (never has been).

The roadster is also a good choice for a lot of people but for me at 145kg on a 125cc engine, I'm afraid 28m will be too small.

Thanks for the suggestions tho.

Beginning to think ENC is unavoidable.

Nick

Be an issue for those of us that fly from iron sand beaches...

Thinking about getting a new wing, and need one that is safe (ENA/B), and is good for both PPG and PG.

Yes, I know I'll be slower than my mates, but being a family man safety is top priority.

The Z4 seems to be a big step up in performance from the Z3, I'm wondering if this would be ok for ppg.

Anyone tried a Z4 + PPG ?

They must have one in the UK, perhaps contact them directly?

More info compared to agama here http://powerfloat.com.au/cms/?page_id=2

Also check out this:

http://powerfloat.com.au/cms/?page_id=29

This is pretty typical of varios. They have pretty sensitive electronics with lots of amplification of the sensor signals.

I think the easiest cure is to move them further apart, or use a lower power (500mW) radio.