indigo_miles

I have just been reading "Leisure Aviation" 07/08 edition in the

paramotor section Back Bone paramotors are using the ROS engines they

have a ROS 200 with quote "40 HP" has any one seen this engine ? is

this possible or is it a misprint.

p.s. anyone have any experience with the ROS engine good or bad what

Iv seen of the smaller versions they run very very well.

many thanks Miles

I have just been reading "Leisure Aviation" 07/08 edition in the

paramotor section Back Bone paramotors are using the ROS engines they

have a ROS 200 with quote "40 HP" has any one seen this engine ? is

this possible or is it a misprint.

p.s. anyone have any experience with the ROS engine good or bad what

Iv seen of the smaller versions they run very very well.

many thanks Miles

I have managed to build myself a great hand throttle I worship parajet but I do think their throttle is a little bulky especially when you have your risers and brake in the hand. I also like my hand free to use a camera etc. My hand throttle works perfectly, if I change my paramotor i will be keeping or building myself another one. take a look at my photos in my album The handle is a mountain bike handle bar end make "Specialized" "Dirtrod Bar Ends 05" part no 2143610 price

£14.99 pair the brake lever is made by "swinger" part no BX273

price £10.99 pair both purchased from J E James Chesterfield

England. the start stop button is a "Horn/Starter Button" part no

594B purchased from Motorworld Matlock England. I have seen similar

in some electronic catalogues. Stop button at thumb level start at

bottom only activated by your other hand. The "cruse control" is

achieved by drilling the allen bolt head side of the throttle lever

holder large enough to allow the allen head of the bolt to slide in

and out, clamping the lever when the thumb screw is turned. The

clever bit is the spot weld on the allen head bolt. The spot weld is

to stop the allen bolt from turning but still allowing the head to

move with in the holder and clamp the lever when the thumb screw is

tightened. The weld was achieved by two spots repeated one on top of

the other with a simple arc welder and a stainless steel rod. You

will have to drill and file a notch offset to the allen head hole to

seat it all into. the felt washers are used each side of the lever

on the bolt. When using tighten the cruse control thumb screw. It

is the smoothest clamp and requires no effort, the lever can still

be pulled or pushed out with the back of your fingers to

increase/decrees the engine revs holding a constant speed. The rest

of the manufacturing can be seen by by studying the photos.

good luck

many thanks Miles

As its quiet?

About 3 months ago I decided to get anther more powerful paramotor now there is nothing wrong with my trusty Pap Top 80 but I want better economy.

I looked at what was avalable and it came down to 3, but they all had good points and bad so Ill build my own.

I contacted Simonini and ordered a mini 2 plus with fuel pump and bing carb.

Ordered a ground adjustable prop from GSE in the states.

Two weeks later they were both here oooooooooooo shiny shiny.

I have over the last few years flying thought that if this was different or that was moved to there maybe it would be better,so I decided to build my own cage.

6mm stainless tube was ordered and arived two days latter,after I had made the bender I started to form the cage Then work picked up and what with one thing and another the build was crawling along.

As I am a BIT impatient I was not going to have the motor sat around for I don't know how many months doing nothing so I thought about putting it in to my Pap cage but decided to keep this flyable just in case it was flyable.

After thinking about it I decided to to get a parajet macro complete less engine and fit the Simonini in to it.

The engine is now in sat in the cage waiting for some extra mounts to be made so as the exhaust and prop will clear the cage,the electric box fouled the head so thats got to be reworked the spark plug will not allow the fuel tank to go in so I have heated up the tank and pushed the top down in(not a pretty sight but it will do for now)

I am now trying to work out a throttle grip with stop and start buttons. I did not go for the Parajet one as I like the Pap type and found the Parajet one a little large for me.

I hope to have it running by mid Jan as my Pap will be in spain waiting for me to go out and fly it in the warm air over the beach.HA HA

Pete b

Big shame it was wasnt a great day for you - you did handle yourself well under pressure especially without the ground support when the comms went down - you did fantastic and the landing was good for a first go (my first, second & third were all very similar). Stepping onto the ground is only a second difference in your braking and you did far better than braking too early. I was telling you on the day that I used to be scared of heights, I am still nervous when flying in a jet but love paramotoring - confidence in your equipment and ability will come. Having your first flight on a day when the temperature didnt get above freezing, not to mention the wind chill... Just imagine summer nights, nil winds, flying with the balloons, warm enough to fly in a tee shirt, air so still you only have to lean slightly to take a turn for the next picture or admire the sights - that, still, years on takes my breath away.

please keep at it you will get bitten by the bug Im still chase those amazing flights you never forget them.

keep in touch many thanks Miles

take a look at my phoos in my album I have one i made myself The handle is a mountain bike handle bar end

make "Specialized" "Dirtrod Bar Ends 05" part no 2143610 price

£14.99 pair the brake lever is made by "swinger" part no BX273

price £10.99 pair both purchased from J E James Chesterfield

England. the start stop button is a "Horn/Starter Button" part no

594B purchesed from Motorworld Matlock England. I have seen similar

in some electronic catalogues. Stop button at thumb level start at

bottom only activated by your other hand. The "cruse controll" is

achieved by drilling the allen bolt head side of the throttle lever

holder large enough to allow the allen head of the bolt to slide in

and out, clamping the lever when the thumb screw is turned. The

clever bit is the spot weld on the allen head bolt. The spot weld is

to stop the allen bolt from turning but still alowing the head to

move with in the holder and clamp the lever when the thumb screw is

tightened. The weld was achived by two spots repeated one on top of

the other with a simple arc welder and a stainless steel rod. You

will have to drill and file a notch offset to the allen head hole to

seat it all into. the felt washers are used each side of the lever

on the bolt. When using thighten the cruse controll thumb screw. It

is the smoothest clamp and requires no effort, the lever can still

be pulled or pushed out with the back of your fingers to

increes/decrees the engine revs holding a constant speed. The rest

of the manufacturing can be seen by by studying photos.

good luck

many thanks Miles

Can anybody help me source a hand throttle with electric stop and start buttons and preferably cruise control? I would like to replace my exisiting one. I believe these throttles are not crafted to suit a specific motor, but I am quite able to make slight adjustments. My motor is an Easy 100.

Bendme

Must keep in touch with you all. Paddy cant wait to fly with you up Brassington Iv heard your an impressive flyer hope to learn a few tricks lets hope the weather picks up !

Ill introduce myself my name is Miles Gregory. Iv been flying for around 2 years I own a Airfer Bimax Black Devil engine and a Reaction wing. I live in the hills of Matlock Derbyshire and live breath sleep paramotoring.

p.s. Simon Wow what an amazing site you have here! A Paramotor site ill be visiting allot I'm sure!

Girl friend that’s passionate about flying doesn’t mind when I’m playing with my paramotor or out flying with my mates and wild in the bedroom not asking for much?